How do you change oil and filter on a Yamaha v-star 1300?

Answer 1

I just did the first oil filter and oil change on my V-Star 1300. The oil filter is below the crank case and is difficult to get off if you do not have the expensive Yamaha tool. I had to drive a screwdriver through the filter to crank it off. A cool trick is to buy the cheap 3 dollar filter socket (Walmart) and epoxy the entire inside to the attached filter. You wont be able to use the fillter tool again but hey. You go it off didin't you? Once off, I removed the oil plug, stood the bike up, and ran the engine for about 7 seconds to drive the oil out of the crankcase. I could tell when there was no oil going to the engine because the engine slowed down very quickly. Take care here. Do not run the engine without oil.

I put the new oil filter on, didn't check the torque as the manual suggests, and hand tightened it. I have to test ride it with a few rides to see if the filter losens, may have to get that oil filter tool. The manual refers to a torque for tightening the oil filter, but doesn't state what it is. I hope it isn't as tight as when I removed the filter. I put in about 3.6 quarts of 20/50.

I use to work for S&S Cycle and was told that the oil change is critical because lots of machining debris and metal builds up in the oil during engine break in. Believe me it is true. If the metal filings I saw in the bottom of the oil catch basin were gold, I would have hit the jackpot. It is normal but underscores how important it is to change the oil at 500 - 800 miles on a new bike. I will also change the oil and filter after another 500 miles just to be sure.

Joe

Answer 2

This is the process I use for my friend's 2000 Yamaha V-Star 650. All information should be verified by checking your owners manual and/or a factory service manual. As always, YMMV.

This will require a few tools to start: * 10mm hex/allen key * 17mm box wrench * 17mm socket (3/8" or 1/2" drive is fine) * Short (3 - 6") extension for above * Ratchet for above, and preferably a torque wrench

* Funnel with a flexible extension * Oil filter wrench, filter pliers or strap wrench * Oil drain pan

And you will need the following materials for the change: * New oil filter * New oil (5 US quarts, 20w40, for motorcycles with wet clutches. Despite the bike, this does NOT generally include V-Twin oil, which is designed for bikes with separate engine and transmission oil, typically. This can greatly effect clutch and transmission efficiency and functionality.) The following are the normal-ish steps for the procedure. At least, this is the approach I've taken with my friend's V-Star:

# Make sure the bike is warm. Take it for a ride around, just a few blocks, then bring it in and put it on a stand, not the factory one. # Remove the seat and the oil dipstick.

# Let the engine cool just a little bit, so you don't burn yourself, and put on some gloves if you're so inclined. I don't like burning myself, so I like to use gloves.

# Place the catch pan under the bike. # There are two 17mm bolts that need be removed. The bottom most is the one to drain the crankcase, and can be found between the frame and the crankcase, fairly close to the stock stand mount point. Remove this with the box wrench. # The second 17mm bolt should be removed with the ratchet, socket, and extension. This plug is near the rear shock, almost directly beneath the oil dipstick that sits under the seat. # Let the drains run for fifteen minutes or so. In the mean time, remove the oil filter from the front of the bike. You should be able to do this with a filter socket, strap wrench, or a set of filter pliers. Once you've done this, you should make sure there's no gasket left over on the surface, clean it lightly, and install the new oil filter. Only hand tight, and don't try and crank it down too hard. # Once you're done draining the bike, re-install the drain plugs where you found them, tightening them to 35 ft/lbs of torque if you have a torque wrench, or 'rather tight' if you're a work-by-feel kind of guy. It's hard to get a torque wrench into the one on the crank case, but do your best! # On the crankcase, right beside the rear cylinder, you'll see a drain plug with a hex key slot. Remove this with the 10mm hex key, and place it to the side. # Get your flexible funnel and route the outlet to this hole you just unplugged. Add 3.2 US quarts to the crank case, and glance down to check for leaks. # Reinstall the plug you just removed, tightening to 10 ft/lbs. Or 'fairly snug.' # Pour 1 US quart into the oil fill under the seat, then cover.

# Once you've done this, keep the seat off, but start the bike, and let it run for a minute or so. Listen and check visually for leaks. # Turn off the bike. # Check oil level with the dipstick after one more minute. If it's below the middle of the hash marks, add oil until it gets to the middle. Never over fill the oil tank, and don't worry about filling it up to the top of the hash marks. Seems these bikes 'feel' best right in the middle. # Replace seat, lower bike from stand, and go for a ride!

Answer 3

The oil filter is located on the right front side of the MC underneath the small chrome plate that says Yamaha. If you do not have a oil filter relocation kit then you will have to remove your exhaust pipes in order to remove the chrome plate. This is not easy I suggest getting the oil filter relocation kit..

Answer 4

To change the oil filter on a V-star you will have to loosen the exhaust header and the

muffler brackets to allow the Pipe to move around so you can get an Allen key into the

bolts holding the cover on. There are 5 Allen head bolts that will need to come out to

allow the filter cover to be removed. Pull it straight out,carefully, and you will find the filter

underneath. Check the O-ring on the cover and make sure you put the filter in the right

direction. Reverse all these steps and you will be good to go.

Answer 5

YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE EXHAUST TO GET TO THE OIL FILTER. IT TAKES ABOUT 1 HOUR TO DO AN IOL/OIL FILTER CHANGE. THE FILTER IS BEHIND THE EXHAUST PIPE.