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You can choose one of two plans. Either to have the job done by an auto shop, or do it yourself.

Whichever plan you decide to use, it's probably worth replacing or servicing the spark plugs at the same time as replacing the wires because of the extra work required to access plugs 1, 2 & 3.

Plan 1.

This job is not beyond the capabilities of a small auto repair shop, so if you don't want to do it yourself for some reason, you should find it a fairly rapid job that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

But remember that labor time and charges will reflect the fact that that the coil and plugs 1, 2 and 3 are difficult to access and will most often require the removal of the plastic cowl between the hood and front windshield for the quickest and easiest completion.

Plan 2.

For this you will need a set of spark plug wires, a spark plug wire boot removal tool, and some dielectric spray. If you decide to change or service the plugs, you'll need the things for that part of the job, too.

Any auto store should have the wires and sell them specific to the model and year of the vehicle.

The boot removal tool will cost around $10-$12 at most. Buy the longest one you can find. You'll definitely need the tool to remove the wires for plugs 4, 5 & 6 because it's difficult to reach down in such a tight space and remove them by hand.

The dielectric spray can be something like Wire Dryer, and should cost no more than around $4.

Prices can vary, and are correct as at May 2011 as far as I can tell.

All of the Freestar models have 6 cylinder engines.

When you stand in front of the vehicle, with the driver's side on your right side, there are three plugs on the front side of the engine (the side closest to you). These are plugs 4, 5 & 6.

There are three plugs on the rear side of the engine (the side closest to the passenger compartment). These are plugs 1, 2 & 3.

To remove the wires, first remove the negative wire from the battery.

If the engine is hot, wait for it to cool down to avoid burning yourself. Also the dielectric spray must not be applied on a hot engine because it is highly flammable.

Make a note which plug and which connection on the coil that each wire goes to.

The wires to the plugs on the front side of the engine (4, 5 & 6), are clearly visible as they are routed together over the top of the engine and down to the plugs.

You can reach these wires down between the engine and radiator. For these, you will need the wire removal tool described above - do not attempt to pull them off using the wires but use the boot itself.

Plugs 1, 2 & 3, together with their wires, are not normally visible because they are located on the rear of the engine.

You can reach these wires in one of two ways. Either raise the vehicle and reach them from the underside of the car or, more easily, remove the windshield wipers and arms, and the plastic cowl that is between the hood and front windshield, and reach them from above.

Again, use a spark plug boot remover for the wires because they are down in the engine compartment and difficult to reach.

After you have removed the wires, clean the connections on the coil and the area around the spark plugs. If you are going to remove the spark plugs, ensure that you remove any debris or dirt from around them beforehand, so that nothing falls into the combustion chamber.

When you have completed the cleaning and any plug maintenance, install the replacement wires in the correct sequence that you identified above.

Before you attach each end of each wire, spray the coil connection, the plug contact, and each end of the wire, with some dielectric spray. This will help seal the connection and prevent water and damp from affecting the conductivity of it.

Wait for a half hour or so, depending on the weather conditions and temperature, for the dielectric spray to dry before you attempt to start the vehicle.

Reconnect the negative lead to the battery.

Start the vehicle and test drive to check your work.

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14y ago

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