There are generally 3 problems that indicate that the clutch has failed, or is about two.
1. Violent juddering of the vehicle as you pull away from a stand-still, and perhaps also when changing gear.
2. Inability to select any gear. An effect similar to not actually having depressed the clutch pedal at all. (The clutch is failing to disengage.)
3. The car does no pull away, or does so extremely slowly, and engine speed rises when you try to accelerate, but road speed does not increase. (The clutch is slipping. it feels similar to driving an automatic car,).
1 & 2 you will notice.
3 is easy to test. Engage the hand-brake/Parking brake. Select first gear, and try and pull away normally, slowly. If the clutch is good the car engine will stall. If the clutch is worn out you will be able to take your foot of the clutch pedal while in first gear, with the engine running, and the car will not move. (do not do this for more than 3 or 4 seconds, or you may do more damage!)
junk it its a ford!
You will need a very specific clutch alignment tool to make sure the pilot bearing and the clutch collar are aligned. These usually come with a new clutch, but you can purchase from a professional tool supplier.
at the slave cylinder, you will need to remove the clutch inspection plate to do so.
clutch release fork
A part called a clutch fork pivot holds the clutch fork on a 1976 Ford F-250. Another part near the clutch fork is the clutch flywheel.
Yes , it has a hydraulic clutch
On a 1997 Ford F-250 : The manual transmission clutch is hydraulic
how to bleed the clutch system on ford f-250 2001 truck
Sounds like you have broken the 'clutch return spring' in the transmission or if it's hydraulic you may be out of clutch fluid (leaking)
On the clutch slave cylinder
no just remove the belt then the bolt that holds the clutch on dont loose the shim and make shure the air gap is correct.
start it and try to put it in gear without using the clutch if it goes the clutch is shot