1. Unhook the battery. Jack up the driver's side of the car and block the wheels. Crawl under, find the clutch arm, and unscrew the big wing nut from it. Then go into the engine compartment and unhook the accelerator cable.
2. Go in the passenger compartment and remove the pedal cluster. Make sure to unhook the accelerator cable. When you pull it out, you'll see the clutch cable sticking out a big hole in the side of the transmission tunnel. Before you pull the clutch cable completely out of the car, carefully!!! stick your finger in this hole and feel around for the tube the clutch cable is sticking out of. Also note the hook attached to the clutch pedal. If this hook looks like a hook, go to the next step. If the hook looks like part of it has broken off, you don't need to change the clutch cable.
If the hook is okay:
3. Pull the clutch cable out.
4. Paint your new clutch cable to make it last longer. When the paint dries, get a nice big glob of lithium grease in one hand and pull the whole cable through it.
5. Get a newspaper and spread it out on the floor of your car so you don't get the rug covered with grease. Thread the end of the clutch cable into the tube you felt in step 2, then push it in until the clevis at the end is sticking out of the hole about two inches.
If the hook is worn off (this happens more than you'd think):
3. There's a bolt on the pedal cluster that holds the hook in. Remove this bolt. Pull out the hook. Grease the shaft of the new hook, put it in place, line up the bolt hole and replace the bolt.
In all cases:
a. Go back under and put the clutch cable into the clutch arm. Screw the wing nut on until it just touches the clutch arm, then back it off a couple of turns.
b. Get out from under and check the clutch free play: you want about a quarter inch of travel before you feel resistance.
c. Put the car back on the ground and hook up the battery, then test drive the car to be sure it shifts nicely.
You have to replace the whole starter.
odometer cable and speedometer cable are the same thing, unscrew cable from speedometer head under the dash and unhook it from the tranny and pull the cable out and replace with a new one.
Step one is to remove the large wing nut on the clutch actuating arm on the transaxle, located ahead of the engine, oin the drivers side, on top of the transaxle. Next, you have to remove the accelerator cable from either the pedal assembly, or detatch it from your carb linkage. Lastly, you need to remove the two bolts holding the pedal assembly on, one in front of the accelerator pedal, and one behind it. The pedal assembly should pull right out of it's mounting hole and you will have access to the clutch pedal hook and the clutch cable. Remove the clutch cable, inspect the clutch pedal hook to make sure it isn't getting too worn out ( I have had one of these hooks break off on me from years of driving and a Kennedy pressure plate ), then thread the new clutch cable into it's guide tube, hook the end onto the back side of the clutch pedal, re-install the pedal assembly, then the large wing nut and accelerator cable. B. Nash
The stock clutch for a 1969 z28 is 10.5". The 1970 z28 went to a 11".
I just replaced my cable, but before that I stressed on how to do it because of the thin sleeve it runs in. All you do is take out the old cable, the new cable has two metal points on it. The straight one you feed from inside the vehicle to the back, where the old cable came out.
Volkswagen always said 25mpg
No.
Kurobe Cable Car was created in 1969.
Best bet is under the back seat
26-27 MPG Highway
if your clutch is slipping it probably means your friction disk is near dead or your clutch master is near dead or both. Which means that it needs to be replaced.
Yes, it's electrically operated and located in the speedometer.