Answer
the best thing to do is remove the transmission. the flywheel is bolted on the back of the engine.
If possible, pressure wash the underside of the truck. Get under there real clean; we work on these things to make them better, not to put dirt into everything.
Ok; You HAVE to remove the transmission. Of course, using all safety precautions including Good Jack Stands and a level surface, raise the vehicle.
Remove the driveshaft from the rear end. put the clamps and nuts back in the yoke for safe keeping.
Remove the shifter and boot. Look at the truck floor from underneath. Is there a large panel held by screws? If so, remove the seats and carpet. (Don't try to tilt the motor down as this will likely break something.
Support the transmission with a transmission jack. Don't even try the bench press method. Work smarter, not harder.
Remove the crossmember.
Remove the slave cylinder and carefulloy set aside without kinking the hose.
Remove the Starter after assuring the battery is disconnected.
Remove the front flywheel cover
Remove speedometer cable if equipped, (otherwise sensor is in the rear axle
Unplug Neutral B/U light wires
Remove Bellhousing to Engine bolts.
Move entire transmission rearward, straight until clear of input shaft then lower and move aside.
Remove pressure plate bolts surrounding perimeter of flywheel.
Remove clutch with pressure plate
Using flywheel holder, remove flywheel bolts. Important!!! Leave at leat two "Finger tight" until the flywheel is supported and ready to be removed. Use leather work gloves when handling the flywheel. Do not drop it on your head or anything else that you don't want to see blood come out of.
Take the flywheel for either surfacing or replacement. Don't imagine sanding it or else the new clutch will slip badly. Get a new clutch , pressure plate and throwout bearing. If the slave cylinder is inside there, replace it also.
Inspect/lubricate or replace pilot bushing in the crankshaft end.
Clean all bolts and mating surfaces of the crankshaft and flywheel, align boltholes and guidepins and insert a couple of bolts to hold while the CLEAN and locktite laden bolts are replace. Torque to specs found in the manual. Insert a pilot tool thru the clutch while mating up the pressure plate. Again clean, locktite and torque the pressure plate bolts.
Replace the transmission by inserting carefully in a straight line , placing the input shaft thru the clutch splines. Sometimes rocking longitudinally helps, other times pulling back and rotating the input shaft to align with the clutch splines. watch that the bellhousing to engine surface areas are parallel. continue to work with it until it mats. Don't dream of getting close and forcing together with the bolts. When the flanges mate, then insert bolts. Replace crossmember. (Sometimes help from above with a strap such as used to tie down motorcycles.)
Reconnect wiring, Slave cylinder and speedometer as applicable. Ensure that all wireties and clamps etc as placed by the factory are put back. (They are only there because they have to be, not just because Ford had a lot of money to spend on frilly little clamps.)
Replace driveshaft after inspecting/ lubricating or replacing u-joints.
Top off the transmission oil to level as indicated in the manual.
Bleed the slave cylinder. Even if you didn't replace it or lose the fluid, change the fluid.
Replace the shifter
Double check all bolts up to this point. Put a wrench on them, nobody has torque-eyeballs.
Replace covers as removed and the starter. (Go ahead and look closely at the starter while it's off; replace rather than get stranded.)
Take a can of paint and touch up the frame, crossmembers as needed.
Reconnect battery. Clean the terminals while You're there.
Start it up for a bit and be sure everything is bolted up correctly. Don't go putting it in gear and running it up on the jack stands. Not only dangerous but drives the ABS nuts.
Allow everything to cool down, check everthing again including oil levels.
Change the motor oil and filter.
Pull a couple wheels off and look at the brakes. ( Its up on stands, the tools are out and you are already kinda dirty.)
Put the floor panel back in once ensured all bolts are tight. Put the carpet back in and then the seats.
my 86 full size bronco haha
If you are speaking of the full-size Bronco, then no. The automatic in the Bronco was either the E6, AOD, or E4OD, none of which were utilized by the 1985 Ranger. The Ranger used a few different types of Mazda and Mitsubishi transmissions in 1985.
you just replace it like you would on a normal car
Well you take out the tail light assem and remove the blown bulb
No , the 1972 Ford Bronco is a full size vehicle
There is the FULL SIZE BRONCO and then the Bronco II ( the Bronco II is smaller , eventually replaced by the Ford Explorer)
To replace the clutch on a 1994 Ford Bronco 4X4, first disconnect the battery and remove the transmission by unbolting it from the engine and supporting it with a jack. Next, remove the old clutch assembly, including the pressure plate and flywheel, then clean the mounting surface and install the new clutch components. Reassemble by carefully aligning the transmission with the engine, ensuring all bolts are torqued to specifications, and finally reconnect the battery. Always consult a repair manual for specific torque settings and detailed instructions.
The average weight of 1993 full size xlt bronco is 6,300 lbs
The last model year for the full size Ford Bronco was ( 1996 )
is it a full size or mid size... full size is a 5x5.5 i dont know the mid size(bronco 2)
Yes , there was a 1995 full size Ford Bronco ( the last model year was 1996 )
The Bronco 2 was sold between 1984 and 1990. The Ford Bronco 2 was a compact SUV. It was smaller than a full-sized Bronco. It was succeeded by Ford Explorer.