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Bad news: You don't. I have a 95 Saab 900 and it too has a clutch cable...they do not have any adjustment. Eventually it stretches to the point you cannot completely disengage the clutch and it will grind into gears, and be hard to shift into reverse.
There are aftermarket clutch cables you can buy that have an adjustment feature buit into them. SAAB has a technical advisory, so when they put replacement cables in they "double washer" it so the cable can stretch more before you have trouble.
I had good luck extending the life of my stretched clutch cable by taking a fender washer (about 1" diameter w/ 1/8" center hole) and using it to shim where the end of the clutch cable contacts the clutch arm coming out of the transaxle.
Take the washer and use a hacksaw to cut a slot from the other edge to the center hole, so you can slip it over the cable without taking the cable out. Also bend the washer so it is curved to roughly match the bend in the clutch arm. Have someone push in your clutch cable, then push on the arm while they release the clutch pedal so you can get some slack between the clutch arm and the ball at the end of the cable. Slip the fender washer between the clutch arm and the ball-end. When you release everything the pressure of the clutch arm will hold it firmly in place, and you will have shortened the 'effective' length of the cable about 1/16", the width of the washer.
That worked about perfectly for me! BUT, 6 months later the cable started to stretch again and ultimately broke. So this type repair should be considered just temporary, and if you feel it stretching AGAIN get to a shop PRONTO or you'll end up stranded on the road.
Hope this helps, Paul. prhkgh@comcast.net
...Here is another method.
,, You will note ( with the battery removed) that once you have levered the stretched cable end off the transaxle clutch throw out arm assy, the aluminum end cap on the stretched clutch cable, can be held whilst you slide the white nylon guide assembly back a few mils.
This will allow you to shim the flat surface with a plastic washer or shim, again, cutting a small groove into your shim prior to placing it between the aluminum end piece and rubber cushion washer SAAB have already installed on their non adjustable cable. ,,A breaker bar or 2 ft length of small diameter water pipe or even a length of broom stick handle can be used to lever the clutch arm in far enough to fit the newly revised and shimmed cable back into place. This method is easier and more desirable from a wear perspective, simply because you are allowing the original ''nylon assy to lever profile'' to continue mating without any increased wear caused by bending a washer in an attempt to match original profile.
( I just did this for my next door neighbour and he was very happy ! )
A new cable is not expensive, but you need to be a petite contortionist to fit em
,,As a rule of thumb, 2mm minimum to 5 mm maximum should be all the shimming you need,,, cheers darylwjames@gmail.com
What else can I help you with?
Where is the transmission dipstick on a Saab 1996 900s?
I really don't know!
Where is the oil dipstick on a 1996 Saab 900S?
It is Attached to the oil filler cap
How do remove rear seat 1996 saab 900s?
unscrew bolts and take out.
How many quarts of oil for 1996 Saab 900S?
4.25 quarts (4 liters).
How do you tighten a 1995 Saab 900 clutch cable?
There was a design flaw in the 95 900SE cable in that there was no provision to adjust the cable...and as you probably have found out, when it inevitably stretches it gets very hard to shift into 1st or reverse without clashing the gears. By the year after, or maybe 2 years after, SAAB changed to a hydraulic clutch design. I got another 6 months and 6000 miles on my 95 clutch cable by adding a bent fender washer as a "shim" where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch arm coming out of the transaxle. The cable sheath ends and the cable goes thru a curved slot on the arm, and ends with a short metal cylinder that pulls against the arm when you push the clutch pedal down. So I took a fender washer and cut a small slit to its center hole. I also bent the washer into a curve. Then I slipped the washer over the cable between the clutch arm and the metal cylinder. (The washer will be toward the front of the car ahead of the clutch arm.) Once you get it on the cable (with the cable thru the hole in the middle of the washer), you effectively have "shortened" the clutch cable by the width of the washer, between 1/16 and 1/8th of an inch...just enough that the shifting will be like new! I even made some extra washers in case the 1st dropped out or the cable stretched a bit more. (I never needed the extra washers.) But this is a temporary fix. When I had about 6000 miles on the repair, the clutch cable suddenly stretched A LOT, and then snapped leaving my clutch fully engaged within about 2 shifts of when the extreme stretch started. So it was tow to a Saab dealer (when there still were Saab dealers) and have a new clutch cable installed. SAAB had put out an advisory that when installing a new cable to use 2 instead of 1 washer (at the other cable end.) The tow and new cable at the dealer cost about $1000. When I could feel the replacement cable start to stretch about a year and a half later, I sold the car before I had another $1000 repair. Too bad...the 95 is a great looking, driving, and handling car, whose styling was way ahead of time, still comparing favorably with high end convertibles 17 years later. Good luck, Paul
What happen to Maya civilization in the 900s?
they collapse in the 900s
What happened to Maya civilation in the 900s?
they collapse in the 900s
What happen to Maya civillization in the 900s?
they collapse in the 900s
What happened to Maya civilizations in the 900s?
they collapse in the 900s
How do you reset the srs air bag system light on a 1996 Saab 900s?
my srs light and exclamation light wont go out
What century is the 900s?
The 900s is the 10th century....We are in the 21st century and it is the 2000s
What causes a 1996 Saab 900 se turbo to be stuck in a gear?
Probably a stretched clutch cable, that is preventing you from fully disengaging the clutch as you push the pedal all the way down. The way this manifested itself in my '95 900S Turbo was initially grinding when shifting into reverse...as the cable stretched more that also began to grind when shifting into 1st. It got so bad I had to turn the engine off, shift into reverse, and then start it up again to back up. And of course if you can't shift into reverse you can't take the key out of the ignition. So what to do? The clutch cable had NO provisions to adjust its length...a serious design flaw in my opinion. I think someone may offer an aftermarket adjustable cable...some web searches may find it for you. I worked around the problem for 9 months by shimming the cable: I cut a slit in a fender washer and bent the washer into a curve. Then in the engine compartment I found where the clutch lever came out of the transmission, and put the washer IN FRONT OF the arm and behind "the ball" that is the end of the cable. That in effect shortened the cable length by the thickness of the washer and all was well again. That is, all was well again until 9 months later when in the course of a day the cable suddenly started to stretch all over again and then snapped...leaving me to be towed. Later years (I think with the 9-3) converted to a hydraulic clutch which eliminated the condition. One last note: There was an engineering notice...when a dealer puts in a new clutch cable, they now put TWO (rather than just one) washer to shim the cable, but IIRC that's on the other end of the cable, not by the arm. For the rest of the time I had the car I carried a cut fender washer bent into the appropriate curve in my glove box, just in case I started to have the trouble anew. Good luck, Paul
