Fuel pump. We have 3 of these as delivery cars. 2 have had this same sympt. Check your VIN with the dealer. One of ours had a recall on it. Had it done at Ford for free. Don't go buy parts and replace if you don't know whats wrong. A bad battery cable can't quit then work again and quit again. Also, DO NOT change the fuel pump just because it was the problem for us. Take it to a professional who can diagnose. No offense but, if that was your response to a car that died, you do not know what you are doing and it will cost way more than having it fixed by a qualified technician. You are going to end up there anyway so don't waist money in the meantime.
Disconnect battery once again then touch both battery cables together for about a minute. Reconnect battery and allow time for the comp to relearn environment
If the tractor had a battery in it when you were jumping it, there is a chance that the battery is bad. Try unhooking the tractors battery and trying again. Hook your jumper cables to the battery cables themselves without being attached to the battery. If it runs then just replace the battery. A battery with a short in it will keep the mower from charging and could cause it to die. If there was no battery in the tractor when you were jumping it, then the tractor is not charging and will have to be diagnosed as to what the problem is.
Bad starter Bad battery Bad connection on battery cables. Faulty ignition switch
Check connections of battery cables at both ends of positive and negative cables.
A battery booster is an emergency device for automobiles that can be used to jump start a car when the battery has died or has insufficient power to start the engine. A battery booster hooks into a car engine with cables that are similar to standard jumper cables. The unit contains its own battery that provides a charge when needed. In most instances, the batter booster is rechargeable so it can be used over and over again as needed.
it stops working until it gets changed again. but if its a hybrid then the petrol kicks in
Check your power cables from the battery, Take them off and clean them and inspect them closely for starters.
Remove the battery cables for 5 minutes, should do it. Then the computer will reset and relearn after driving again. If a major fault was present before, it will return via the check engine light. If you need an inspection, then unhooking the battery for 5 minutes and driving maybe 20-40 miles and then going for inspection may do the trick. There is a small window where the check engine light hasn't come on yet and the IM monitors are mostly ready for inspection.....just before the check engine light comes on again. It will pass, in this window. But when the check engine light comes on again, it will not pass.
Alternator is not recharging the battery. Have the alternator tested or test it yourself with a volt meter. You should read from 13.5 to 15.5 volts DC at the battery with the engine running. If any lower the alternator needs replacing. We had already changed the alternator, and bought a new battery. It is still doing the same thing. It will idle ok. When you drive it, you go down the road around a mile or so, and the darn thing shuts down again, and the battery is dead again. Are you sure the serpentine belt is not slipping? Did you replace the voltage regulator along with the alternator? If you answer yes to both these questions then I suspect you have the alternator wired incorrectly or the battery cables need replacing. The latter is what I suspect is the problem. You may have an internal break in one of the battery cables that just does not show up all the time. Look for a bulge in the cable especially a cable running next the the exhaust.
I had to take mine to the local Chevy dealer to get the code to reset the radio after the battery was changed. I was charged $40 by them to do this.
Heat in an electric cable or connection indicates resistance. Either the connection is not tight or large enough, or there is too small or deteriorated a cable. Clean connections or replace the cables, retighten and try again.
No, even computer controlled transmissions are not affected by disconnecting the cables other than having to re-learn the shift characteristics again. You may notice the shifts to be a little harsher until the computer relearns them in a few miles.