you need to reprogram your radio when the battery has been disconnected - see owners manual
Have you had the alternator tested? Often a bad internal diode can drain the alternator overnight.
not enough info; It could be many many things Right it could be a lot of things. Here's a list to help you get started. 1) Dirty terminals? Check your terminals do they appear clean? Are they tight? Check your wires. While it's running take a voltmeter put the positive to the alternate and the negative on the negative battery terminal. If you don't get a reading you have a wire problem or the alternators bad. 2) Do you hear a clicking sound? If so you have a undercharged battery/bad alternator 3) Do you hear "no" sound? Could be a bad starter. Or again a bad/undercharged battery/bad alternator I'm willing to bet it's your battery. Do you have an Advanced Auto Parts around your area? If so go there as them to do a systems test to test your alternator/starter/battery. It's free and they can test them while they're still on the car.
What i would do first is to check the primary electrical system for any loose conections,battery alternator and starter. If they appear to be ok. Then check the primary system with a code tester. If you do not have one get one. If you do not feel your confident to do yourself take to a certified mechanic. My guest is that your starter is going bad. good luck!
Something is pulling power from the battery when the car is sitting idle. Check under hood, trunk, glove box lights, etc. Also can be a stuck relay. A battery may also appear good and have a dead cell. Have it tested.
The first electric starter with starter button appeared on a car called the Arnold in 1896.
The initials 'FTA' stand for 'failure to appear'. So FTA Battery indicates that a person failed to appear in court on a battery charge.
Battery, in legal terms (as opposed to electrical terms) is assault which damages someone. If a warrant has been issued for you to appear for the charge of battery, it means that you have been accused of this crime and must appear in court, to be tried.
Check the battery cables carefully. If you see a bulge in the cable, replace it. Check the ground cable to make sure it is tight where it is connected to the chassis. I would suspect the battery is bad even though it may appear good, especially if it is over 2 years old.
This sounds like a bad alternator or bad electrical connection to the alternator. First check your battery voltage with the engine at idle. It should be about 13.6v-14.2v. All the idiot lights get their ground through the "battery" failure light. That is often caused by a bad connection of the small red wire at the back of the alternator. Most likely brushes are worn down on your voltage regulator. Replace it, fairly easy job, two screws hold it attached to the alternator. It is located next to the oil filter.
The emergency light coming on during acceleration may indicate an issue with the vehicle's electrical system or a problem with the battery or alternator. Start by checking the battery connections for corrosion or looseness, as well as the alternator's output. If those appear fine, consider having the vehicle's electrical system tested for faults. If you're not comfortable diagnosing it yourself, it's best to consult a professional mechanic.
the battery light will appear on the dash or the car will start shaking and lose its energy whilst on Also you can remove it and take it to almost any auto parts store and they will test it for free in most cases. That is the best way as they can mimick a heavy load to see if it fails. Run1
If the replacement alternator for your Mazda 323 is functioning properly but the warning light remains on, it could be due to several reasons. Firstly, there might be an issue with the wiring or connection to the alternator, preventing proper voltage detection. Additionally, a faulty battery or a problem with the vehicle's charging system could trigger the light. Lastly, if the dashboard warning light itself is malfunctioning, it may need to be checked or reset.