For a cracked engine block losing coolant, you can use a temporary sealant or epoxy specifically designed for automotive repairs to seal the crack. However, this is a short-term solution and not a permanent fix. It's essential to consider replacing the engine block or consulting a professional mechanic for a more lasting repair. Additionally, regularly check coolant levels and monitor for overheating while using temporary fixes.
The engine block coolant plug on a 6-cylinder is near the bottom of the engine. You will need to use a socket set and ratchet to remove the plug.
Sounds like a head gasket issue, or worse, your head could be cracked. Check your exhaust - that's probably where your coolant is going.
If you've got a REALLY big set of tools, it could be. Coolant in the engine oil is caused by one of three major things--bad head gasket, cracked head, cracked block. IOW, you'll need to do some major repairs to the car right away. If it's a great car except for the engine, and you can get the price down low enough, it might not be a bad buy. If you're buying a car so you can use it today, walk away from this one.
cracked head, cracked block Bring it in asap. Id be willing to bet you have a cracked head. If you keep driving like that you'll screw up your engine. Coolant isn't made to lubricate an engine, and your pistons and other items in your engine will pay for your driving it like that. Im surprised your car doesnt overheat. No oil additive is going to fix your cracked head, it needs to be replaced.
Remove the lower rad hose and drain, the block itself has no supplied drain. You can also use the drain petcock on the radiator lower drivers side but it is prone to leaking after use.
You need a special tester called a block check. You fill it with a special fluid and then use it to suck fumes out of the radiator . if the fluid turns yellow it means there is exhaust gasses in the coolant.
When fitting a 4G63T head onto a 4G64 block, you need to block the coolant passages that are not aligned between the two components. Specifically, you'll typically need to block the two coolant holes at the rear of the head that do not match up with the block. Additionally, you should ensure to use the appropriate gasket to prevent any leaks and ensure proper sealing. It's also important to verify that the oil passage alignment is correct to avoid engine damage.
as long as it is not the winter... then it will freeze. and never put water in a hot empty radiator or you will crack the block and you will be very sorry.
You will have to remove the heads and have the block welded by a skilled welder or you may in the end have to purchase of a new block. The only other choice you have is to buy a used engine and just replace the entire engine. You can of course buy what is called a short block and use your old heads and manifolds.
Sometimes they use that threaded drain plug location to attach a knock sensor. So if you see a knock sensor threaded into the side of the block that may be where the coolant drain is located.
A 1998 4.3-liter Vortec engine typically holds about 11 to 12 quarts of coolant, including the radiator and engine block. It's important to check the owner's manual for specific details and recommendations. When performing a coolant change, always ensure to use the correct type of coolant for optimal performance.
losing coolant from no apparent hose or fitting Overheating You might be able to see the crack and sometimes the cracks arent visable by our eye. your over flow container will be bubbling even when you first shut the veichle off. you will notice thick white smoke pouring out your tail pipe. this is caused by either a cracked head, cracked block, blown head gasket and or a cracked intake plenum. if you take the head/s off of the engine block check very closely for cracks on the head and examine the gaskets for missing peices of cracks, to the same inside the cylinder walls. if you canot see cracks on the head/s take it to you nearest machine shop and they wil inspect them for you. if you do not see cracks in the cylinder walls you have a couple of options, A: turn the crank shaft manually so the pistons will move so you can see the rest of the cylinder walls B: drop the oil pan and remove the pistons from the crank shaft so the entire cylinder wall will be exposed, but BE CAREFULL!!! If you must remove the distrubutor for any reason make sure you mark where the harmonic balance was or you will mess up your timming. C: take the block into a machine shop and have them "magnafuxed" the block, this will tell them exactly where the crack is. Good luck!