Less torque is needed when unscrewing a bolt because the initial tension and friction that hold the bolt in place are reduced as the bolt is loosened. Additionally, the mechanical advantage provided by the threads of the bolt allows for easier removal, requiring less force. Using excessive torque can lead to stripping the threads or damaging the bolt and surrounding materials. Therefore, a gentle, controlled application of torque helps ensure safe and effective removal.
It depends on what the bolt is made out of ,if it is metric or standard, the thread pitch and what you are screwing into and if you torque it dry or lubricated... but ALL BOLTS HAVE A TORQUE: If it is a bolt going into the block for example: the manufacturer has a specific torque it needs to be at. Alot are torque to yield and have a torque and torque angle the bolt needs to be at. Another example is on BMWs: they use alot of Aluminum bolt to attach accesories like alternator to the block, they don't have marking(thier usually painted blue and E torx). The torque spec. is crutial do to how easy the can break. The material your screwing into can be the limiting factor, For example an aluminum block without a steel insert. You can easliy pull the threads out, especially if it overheated(again important on BMW's). Their are general torque specs. charts avail. from the manufacturer, listed By the markings on the bolt head and the thread pitch: 1/2 -20 grade 5 bolt for example, from one manufacturer is torqued to 90ft-lbs DRY, 65 ft-lbs LUBRICATED. the lubricated itself can cause the torque # to change, torquing engine bolts with MOLY lube requires less torque than oil do to how slippery moly is. On high end connecting rod bolts, torqueing isn't even recommended... These bolts are under such stress that the manufacturers recommend measuring BOLT STRETCH.
When a spanner with a longer handle is used, more torque can be generated with the same amount of force due to the increased lever arm. This allows the user to apply less force to achieve the same rotational force needed to undo the bolt. Essentially, the longer handle increases the mechanical advantage, making it easier to loosen the bolt.
There are two, located in each of the top corners under the bonnet. Unscrew the retaining bolt (13mm) and unclip the holders to remove. Will take less than a minute each.
A torque spanner attempts to infer the tension forces applied to a bolt, by measuring the turning force applied to the nut. This method suffers from uncertainties in the friction between the nut and the bolt, and again from the nut and the surface. It is necessarily an indirect measurement. It is vital that all surfaces be very clean and smooth for this method to be reliable. Compressible washers are a more reliable device, but less simple. Sometimes of a cone or a wave form.
a bad torque converter can sometimes make the vehicle die while stopped.[there are ohter less expensive reasons ]
The force you are referring to is called torque. here is an example: you have 2 wrenches, one with a short handle and the other with a long handle, and 2 identical bolts. The force required for the longer wrench to turn the bolt is less than the force required for the short to turn the bolt. This is because the longer the handle the greater the Torque and therefore less force needs to be applied. summary: longer "effort arm"=more torque= less force needed shorter "effort arm"=less torque=more force needed I hope this answers your question
no less torque less top speed
I got the Below Answer from Allinterview.com, I just Reproduced. Bolt and nut combinations need to be "stretched" in order to provide a clamp effect across the joint. "Bolt Torquing" stretches the bolt as the nut is turned by a wrench. The more the nut is turned, the further it rides up the bolt's threads. Since it can't extend into the joint, the nut "pulls" the bolt, thus "stretching" it. "Bolt Tensioning" uses a tensioning tool to pull the bolt until the required stretch has been achieved. The nut is then turned freely by hand until it rests against the joint face. The tensioning pressure is then released. The applied stretch is retained mechanically by the nut. Since friction has an effect on how easily a nut can be turned against a joint's face when torqued, "Torquing" is much less accurate than "Tensioning" (in which friction is moot).
The best method for removing the crankshaft pulley retainer bolt is with an impact gun/wrench. 1. Remove the tire on the driver's side of the car. There is an access slot on the side of the wheelwell where you can insert a socket with an extension onto the bolt and remove it. 2. BOLT SIZE IS 17MM. Use an impact socket, as anything less may split under the impact of the wrench torque. Additionally, there is a specialized tool that is designed to hold the pulley while turning the bolt, but this tool may not be necessary if an impact wrench is used. An indicator that you may need the specialized tool is if the pulley itself rotates as you use the impact wrench in your attempt to remove the bolt.
If you pull the trigger while pulling bolt out does not work . Then you take the big screw out of stock now with the barrel and stock apart , take the screw out of the trigger . With the trigger out of the way you will notice a piece that is the only thing left other than bolt , push on that small piece while pulling bolt and there you go . It will take less time and easier than for me to typr this out lol
It may take less force to unscrew a screw because when you were screwing it in, you might have overtightened it or created more friction between the screw threads and the wood. This can make it easier to break the initial resistance and unscrew the screw compared to when you were driving it in.
The size of the pulley directly affects the torque required to turn it. A larger pulley will require less force to turn because the torque is spread out over a larger radius, while a smaller pulley will require more force to turn due to the shorter distance from the center where the force is applied.