The easiest and best way to fix it is to pull the intake manifold and replace the rubber grommet. The only other option is to try some alumaseal and hope for the best. Those grommets get hard and brittle after years of use. Best to do it right and be done with it.
It is melted and squeezed into moulds under pressure and heat.
In most cases no, it is two pieces pressed together with rubbber in between. It is called the vibration damper or the harmonic balancer.
Which engine? The 2.7 V-6 has three bolts. Look at a replacement starter for your vehicle and you can see the bolt pattern. Any online parts house has pics of the replacement and you can see the bolt configuration. Bet you will see one on Ebay. Sometimes they will just stick. Try hitting it on the rear with a rubbber or plastic hammer, and see if it will come loose.
In "The Giver" by Lois Lowry, the community disciplines the old by releasing them, which involves a lethal injection. This practice is seen as a way to maintain order and ensure that resources are not wasted on nonproductive members of society. The community believes that releasing the old is a necessary sacrifice for the greater good.
Make sure the pump is working and water is actually getting to the spray nozzles. Simplest solution would be to disconnect the little rubbber water hose, either at the spray head, or where it exits the pump, and then blow compressed air into the tiny spray nozzle. That should blow out any debris that may be plugging the hole back out the way it came in (I prefer to use "canned air"(the kind they use to clean computer keyboards and other electronics). Good luck.
It depends on whether you've got a 3 or 4 cylinder. On the 4, you've got to disconnect the breather hose and PCV valve and hose from the valve cover. Then you gotta remove the spark plug wires and coil form the valve cover. After you do all that, you've got six bolts to remove. Tap the cover lightly with a rubbber maller or piece of wood and then just lift it off. Make sure not to over tighten the bolts when you put the new one on. 44 inch pounds is the recommended torque. That's almost 4 foot pounds.Removing the cover on the three cylinder requires removing the washer/seals underneath the the cover nuts. I found it necessary to unscrew them. Get them started by tapping a screwdriver at an angle to the washer. [John]
Some examples of heat conductors are nickel, coalbolt, iron, steel Some examples of heat insulators are rubbber,glass,wood
A semi dry suit is one which is usually made of neoprene. It actually lets waterin so you will initially feel cold but because the neck and wrist seals are quite tight, the water flow is restricted so your body heat will warm up the water. ot sure why they call it a semi dry mind you, you syill get wet! A dry suit has rubbber seals which don't let water in in the first place. I prefer to dive on a dry suit because the diving I do is usually in cold water. A semi dry is perhaps best used in temperatures of 13-20C. Each person is different so will feel the heat differently. You can also get different thicknesses of a semi dry suit so you should pick one for the type of diving you do. I think they usually come in as 3mm, 5mm, 7mm. Obviously, the thicker it is, the warmer you will be. Some people however don't like the thicker ones as they find it restircts movement a little. This is why I prefer a dry suit since the suit itself is just a membrance but I cano alter how much I wear underneath depending on the water temperature.Hope this helps. If not, drop me a message!
This is a slightly complicated process to answer in just a short post. My recommendation is for you to go to myfishtank.net and do some browsing around the forums. This website is AMAZING and the meImbers are pretty knowledgable. They can help you get your fish tank started from the ground up. The DON"Ts. 1. NEVER add more than one or two small fish at first and be sure it's a hardy fish that can take the beating. 2. Until you find out what is in your water for chlorination then be sure to use Prime by seachem to dechlorinate the water. I've tried others but this one works best. 3. Be sure to have fish that are compatible and RESEARCH the fish to be sure they won't outgrow the tank and can tolerate the same conditions. 4. DON"T buy a common plecco if you plan to have it clean a smaller tank(less than 80 gal) find a maybe more expensive one that will stay at a proper size for the tank it's going in. 5. Don't clean the tank with chemicals(inside or outside.) On the outside you can use vinegar to clean the glass and trim. Inside you can use either but only before you add the fish or the water for the fish. You must rince the inside well before you add fish. 6. Don't set up an used tank before you test it for water tightness in a water safe area. aka tub, outside, or unfinished basement near the drain. 7. DON"T completely trust everyting your Local fish store people tell you research a couple of diffrent Opinions on an issue. Suprisinglly the internet is actually a better source than most LFS(local fish store) employess in large stores. 8. DON"T FEED BEEF HEART The Do's 1 BE PATIENT. If you are adding plants add them Before the fish as the plants will help keep the fish alive during cycleing. 2. Join a fish forum and ask questions. Equipment Must Haves -Seachem Stability(Blue Bottle) -Seachem Prime(red bottle) -Adaquite sized filter(s) for the tank. -Air Pump -airline tubeing -Air diffusion device(bubble curtain, airstone, BUBBLE foam FILTER) -Tank -Lighted Lid(for a planted tank you may need a Better light fixture than is provided with a plastic lid so it's best to invest in a glass lid and a separate recommended light fixture) -gravel -AMMONIA, NITRITE AND NITRATE TEST KITS. LIQUIDS.(liquids are more consistant, reliable, and cheaper per use) -Net -Water Changer -Heater -Surge protector and power strip -Food Grade bucket(no chemicals) to haul water and drain the tank water into. -Sturdy and Level stand (1 gallon of water is about 10 pounds so 10 gallons is 100 pounds) Optionalish Long hose water changer that attatches to a sink to fill and drain a tank.(essential for larger tanks(50 gallons or more) unless you have allot of time and energy to spend every week on changeing water) Battery operated air pump for power outages Extra net for easier catching of fish. Back up filter(small inside the tank) Rubbber maid(specificly that brand) to use when moveing a larger tank(for the fish and tank water) and storage of fish stuff.
My Haynes manual says to remove the lower CV joints axle. This means removing the drivers side wheel and draining the tranny. This is an unceessary pain. I unhooked the brake fluid reservior and undid the master cylinder and tied a rope thru the bolt of the alternator to hoist it up then it came up rather easily. Bleeding the brakes was a small job compared to the lower method. This job is foolish hard, Honda did not think it through. Yes you have to take out the half shaft and the brakes , lower ball, full shaft, the whole drivers side, .. But you don't need to bleed anything.. thats foolish . the only reason the holf shaft hase to come out .. is " the alt is just to big it will not go down or back up with out the shaft out. other than that you manual will show you the rest. Its' the same one I have Fun Fun Fun sgf to replace an alterantor on this car is a pain in the you know what!! sounds like b.s. but this is what you do. 1-take front driverside wheel off 2-you have to take the drive shaft out of trans.(it takes a 30mm socket w/BREAKER BAR)believe me, this is for the bolt in the center of rotor you'll see it. 3-there is the sway bar and a couple of other things in the way you need to loosen to get out of the way(not necessarily take them off) 4-under the oil filter there is a bracket(3bolts) which holds the cv shaft in place(its part of the shaft) loosen those and once everything else is loose you should be able to pull the cv shaft out. trans. oil will leak be ready(be sure to have alternator already loose when you pull the shaft so you can pull shaft drop alternator throw the new one up there and replace shaft with spilling less oil as possible(ATF-Z1 find it at honda or acura dealer $4) 5-replace everything and have fun best of luck any questions email me cwa702@yahoo.com I replaced my altenater with out removing the axle. There is a mount that it is connected to the engine block with 3 bolts, if you remove the small mount it will slide out. It took me 2 hours to figure out which way to take it out, but only 10 minutes to put it in. You still have to take the front wheel off. The last poster is correct. It is not necessary to remove the axle or the brake cylinder. Undo the two alternator mounting bolts and the electrical wiring. Remove the left front wheel. Remove the plastic shield on the fender. If the bolts just spin, use a sharp object to hold the plastic anchor while you remove the bolts. Cut the tyraps holding the rubbber vibration damper on the axle and slide it fully forward towards the wheel. Remove the bolt at the bottom of the suspension fork to allow the fork to move forward. Remove both alternator mounting brackets (the top one may not be necessary - try leaving it on). It may be necessary to remove the front motor mount and lower the motor. I had already done this in hopes I could drop the alternator out the bottom. You can't. Now the alternator will slide out towards the wheel. If it still jams, bend the fender metal slightly with your biggest pliers. Good time to change the oil - the filter is suddenly quite accessible. Thanks, Honda - nice design work. Alan After reading all the posts on replacing Integra Alternators yesterday,I went with the last two posts for a 1990 Integra GS.However,on my 1989,I could only remove the lower portion shield on the wheel well which is plastic.The upper portion is metal and not easily removed.This gave me enough access to the lower bolt,to remove nut and also to align holes on installation(very tight fit,both for removal and installation).I had to pry the alt.off the bottom bracket and slowly tap it in for installation,then align the bolt hole with a podger or round screwdriver.I was also able to wiggle the alternator in and out thru the bottom after removing the oil filter(killing two birds with one stone as car was on jacks).So I was ablt to do it without removing anything except the oil filter.I know this post is for a 1990,but I wanted to share my experience. . Hello. You are all wrong. Yes the alternator will come out the bottom of the car. Undo the 3 bolts that the one guy was talking about on the vibration damper for the cv axle. Remove the little shield that covers your power steering lines, it is on the drivers side of vehicle. Last, remove a long screw/bolt directly under the oil filter. Undo the alternator. You will have to do some fancy maneuvering of the alternator. but it will pop out from the bottom. Just did it yesterday. The stabilizer bar kind of gets in the way but pulling on the alternator when it is in the right position, but it will slide past it. Be ready for the alternator to come crashing down on your chest if you don't hold on to it well enough.