I think you have problem with the blower resistor. Please follow the procedure to check. * remove the connector to the blower motor. * use voltmeter to check the voltage. * connect one probe to the ground and the other probe to the 3.0R/w of the motor supply. * turn on the the blower motor with dial, you should read supply voltage, 12Vdc. * if you have positive voltage at the 3.0R/w then you should check the blower resistor and blower switch. blower switch supplies battery negative to the blower motor through the blower resistor. if you need further help please just let me know.
Check the following................ 1. Power and ground to the blower motor. 2. Blower resister. 3. Blower switch.
First check fuse, if it is good, check for voltage at the motor itself. if it is not present, check the relay in the negative power line located behind the golve box. This relay is activated by the ignition switch and completes the ground path to the blower.(this blower motor has 2 wires on it because the case does not complete the path to ground for the motor) If you turn on the ignition switch while holdiing on to the relay, you should feel it click. If you still have no voltage on the motor, check the fan switch and the heater/AC control switch. The blower motors in these Jeeps have a habit of going bad and drawing too much current and will melt the plastic in these switches and render them unuseable. They must be replaced. If your switches are melted, replace the blower motor first then the switch or switches or you will be replacing the swithes again in a few weeks. Fan switch is about $20.00 at dealer, blower motor is about $200.00 through aftermarket sources. No price on the Heater/AC control.
Yes.
No, it opens the supply voltage and hence the supply current to the load.
An NPN or sinking output accepts voltage and sinks it to ground to complete the circuit. A PNP or sourcing output sources voltage and the external circuit sinks it to ground to complete the circuit. A sourcing circuit would be drawn as voltage->switch->load->ground. A sinking circuit would be drawn as Voltage->load->switch->ground. In these cases, the switch could be a transistor.
Check to see if you are getting power and ground to the blower motor - if so blower motor is bad. If no power possibly fan switch or selector switch Also check the blower motor resistor, found in heater plenum.
Make Sure You Are Getting Voltage To The Blower Motor. If You Are Your Motor May Be Bad. Also Make Sure That The Blower Motor Is Grounded Also If The Motor Is OK & Getting Voltage. Clean The Paint From The Motor Housing And Where It Is Bolted To The Car Body To Get A Good Ground To Complete The Circuit. Best To You
You will need a voltage tester to determine this. Put the tester across the top screw on the switch to the ground wire in the switch junction box. If there is an indication of voltage you can assume that the problem is further down the circuit. If there is no indication of voltage on the top screw then test between the bottom screw on the switch to the ground wire. Sometimes the "hot" is on the bottom screw. If there is no voltage present at the switch you have to work your way upstream towards the distribution panel to see what is interrupting the voltage.
First check fuse under dash. Then check voltage to blower motor. Then replace resistor under glove compartment. Then move to switch behind dash panel. Then blower relay if no voltage.
Use a volt meter to measure the voltage to neutral on each side of the switch. By turning the switch on and off and monitoring the voltage on one side and then the other, you can determine the supply and load side of the switch.
It's in front of the glove box, remove glove box and unplug and test for voltage first on the blue/white wire and make sure it not just a bad fan switch, they go bad more than the blowers do. If voltage is there then reconnect and jumper the blue/black wire to ground, if it don't run then the blower is bad.