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Plan on a long time .. K2500 aka.. 4X4 3/4 ton the larger one with 8 wheel bolts .. ours was in west desert country till 2 years ago, so if your in salt winter country plan on headaches..
remove the plastic hub nuts, and hub cap
losen wheel nuts
loosen the inner- axle nut
jack up the cross member, and place jack stand, .. i used a 8X8 chunk of rail road tie for the stand.
take off wheel nuts, and the wheel .
remove the inner nut. if not using air gun, you can stop the rotor from turning by placing a screwdriver in a vent of the rotor, where it will stop against the bottom/ top of the caliper .
now. now !! before you remove the caliper,, spray PB blaster .. wd-40 down through the vent holes, of the rotor, aiming for the flange of where the bearing hub, and crossmember meet.. .
take a coffee , pepsi, cookie, smoke break... return from break and re shoot penetrating oil , in both general areas. now remove the caliper.. using your hex socket, loosen two hex bolts on the rear of the caliper assembly . neither one has to be "completely" taken out . just where threads are not in contact with the caliper.
since the rotors and, probably the pads are being replaced , no worry about trying to save either pads or rotor, use a larger screwdriver, or pry bay to "push" the inner pad towards engine compartment. you need enough slack to slide the caliper over the rotor.
remove caliper,,,, use a length of wire to hold caliper out of the way, laying over the top crossmember.
now... in salty winter areas.... replace one wheel nut.. rotate the nut- hub , to where you can see the head of the wheel stud in the area of where, the- caliper was mounted.. with a nut on the stud, use a hammer and remove this one stud, through the opening of the removed caliper... now rotate the hub to the 4 different point of contacts where the 4 bolts are mounting the hub, these 4 bolts are easily seen at the rear of the hub. again spray penetrating oil at the threaded area of the 4 mounting bolts.. and again spray through the vents of the rotor , towards the mating area of the hub to bearing area...
use your 15 mm socket to loosen each of the 4 bolts. they are stubborn, tight, and tough to get off.... using the 1/2" air gun, will hammer the bolts. but a box end wrench, with a open end knuckle buster is how mine finally came off.. after breaking 4 15 mm sockets, 2 sockets and 2 ratchets.. but the hammering of the air gun, helped with the penetrating oil.
after all 4 bolts are removed, start " 2" back in , criss cross from each other. top left - bottom right.
from the busted 15 mm sockets , put it on each bolt head and use a larger hammer to drive the hub off the mating mount. and in a alternating method.
as the bolts get to the mount plate, use some more wire to secure the rotor as it dosen't drop and mess the threads of a stud, or break the speed sensor wire.. speaking of which,
remove the bolt that holds the brake hose support, and the speed sensor loom. unplug the loom at the quick connect just at the frame - cowling mount.
a little of push and shove hit and bang it eventually comes off.
place the rotor on solid ground. and drive the studs from the rotor / hub. watch where the speed sensor wire lies, while driving the studs out.
clean, clean .. clean both mating ends of the hub and hub mount facing..
using a 4X4, about 8" to 12" long, up end the 4X4, resting the outer face of the hub center on the up ended 4X4.. place new rotor over the hub. slip the studs through, the rotor, and drive in the studs in the hub .
... stand the tire up, and install hub to tire.. replace wheel nuts and tighten the nuts up to 110 foot Lbs. in a alternating sequence .
remove nuts and wheel ..
replace hub in mount . have 2 bolts through, mount through dust panel. rotate and slide hub on mount face. ... thread speed sensor wire through opening in dust cover.. start thread of the 2 bolts. then replace other 2 bolts. this is called for a 133 Foot Lbs. toqure !!
rotors are now replaced !!
What else can I help you with?
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