Okay, so here is the status update...
The stationary switch is an "old style wishbone" type. I don't know why they call it that. I gave the wishbone a little bend towards the outer shaft and I worked. The pump still starts a little excitedly, but the sparks are gone. I believe that if I continue to play with the switch I can get it to work perfectly, but I just don't have the patience for that.
FYI-a new switch is around $110~$125. As we all know at that point, I should just buy a new motor.
I am kind of discouraged though, seems there isn't an exact science in adjusting these switches, maybe that's why they are so expensive.
To wire a Salzer control switch to an A.O. Smith motor, first determine the wiring configuration of the motor (e.g., single-phase or three-phase). Then, refer to the wiring diagram provided by both the motor manufacturer (A.O. Smith) and the switch manufacturer (Salzer) to identify the appropriate connection points for the power supply, motor leads, and ground. Finally, follow the instructions carefully to ensure a safe and proper connection between the switch and the motor. If in doubt, consult a professional electrician.
Align the neutral lockout switch.
The "rotor" rotates. The "stator" is stationary.
The stator does not move, it is stationary. The rotor is the part that revolves being supported by the shafts two end bearings.
To determine whether the window switch or the window motor is faulty, you can perform a simple test. First, try operating the window using the switch; if the window does not move but you hear a clicking sound from the switch, the motor might be bad. Next, if you have access to a multimeter, you can test for voltage at the motor connector when the switch is activated; if there’s voltage but the motor doesn’t work, the motor is likely the issue. Conversely, if there's no voltage at the motor connector, the switch may be defective.
If you are talking about motor control then the answer is yes. There are two things to take into account though. One, is the motor thermally protected. This is for overload protection. On fractional HP motors it will indicate this on the nameplate. If the motor is not protected, then a fractional HP motor switch should be used. Incorporated into this switch is a heater element that the motor current flows through. If the motor current gets over the motor nameplate rating then the heater trips the switch and shuts the motor off. The other thing is that the switch has to be motor rated, currents and voltage matching the motor nameplate ratings. The specific switch has been designed to open motor currents under full motor loads. An ordinary house light switch is not motor load rated and should not be used for this purpose.
You are going to have 2 things to repair with this problem. The window switch and the window motor. The weak motor has melted the inside of the switch. Yep...been there,done that.Replacing the motor wont fix the switch and if you replace the switch the weak motor will melt the new switch.
remove switch from where it is mounted using a wire , bridge the connections.if switch is bad, it will work the motor while bridged
The stationary part of any motor or generator is termed the 'stator', and the rotating part is termed the 'rotor'.The stator comprises the main frame (chassis), the magnetic circuit, and field windings.
It is in the motor.
The motor needs to be replaced. There is a "switch" in the motor that "parks" the wipers. This happens when current is removed from the motor. Your "switch" in the motor is not allowing this to happen. Replace the motor.
check fuse there is no switch or you a stuck pump