I'll tell you what I've seen in the past. I'm not a tile guy, but my friend is a master tile setter. Occaisonally, he'll hire me to be his helper on bigger jobs. Setting tile is relatively easy, it's the prep work that people are paying the proffessional for. You need to find any low spots in the floor and repair them, even if the slab is new. I'm not sure what product my friend uses to fill these in but if I had to guess I would think it is " thinset". He spreads this with a flat trowel (only in the identified low area), allows it to dry, then scrapes it smooth with a metal straight edge, sometimes a little sanding is neccesary. He can spot these low areas by eye, but I think, for a novice, wetting the floor down and marking the areas where the water pools would be the easiest. Smaller floor tiles like 4"x4" will follow an uneven floor better than larger tiles such as 12"x12" or bigger. If the floor has "duck ponds" in it, the larger tiles might find a hollow space underneath them allowing them to crack. So, in a nut shell, the larger the tile, the more miticulous you should be with the floor prior to setting the tile. Once the floor has been prepped, I believe you would spread the thinset with a 1/4" or 3/8" notched trowel, following some pre-snapped refference chalk lines to keep your tile running straight. check with the manufacturer of the tile to see what they want for grout joint spacing ( usually 1/4" ). Also, use the reccomended thin set and grout to retain the product warranty. Hope this at least gets you pointed in the right direction. Sweep then take a damp sponge every time you start a new area. A little dust will effect your bond. Check and see if the concrete was sealed,this may also effect the bond. They also have level Quick ya just pour it on it finds the low spots, I love the stuff.
Bead blast or score the concrete first anything from a wire brush to a floor sander might work...be VERY CAREFUL with the dust though
Carefully and you wallk on the fronts of the tiles, if you step in the midle of the tile they are more prone to break, especialy if they are new.
Ceramic tile can be installed over any non-compressible solid, non-flexible surface, but in areas of high moisture or possible water penetration, a cementious or water impermeable backer should be used to prevent rot.
This answer pertains to tile set on a concrete substrate! Assuming your thin-set is properly mixed with correct water ratio, the substrate is free of any bond breakers, and it is troweled for the type of tile your using, the most common problem is moisture coming up through the slab collecting at the tile/substrate interface. If you are in a humid climate the HVAC will pull moisture out of a concrete into the less humid interior. Water breaks down the thin-set bond to the tile and emulsifies other mastic's/glues intended to secure a VCT product. The best way to prevent moisture from wicking through a slab is to waterproof the concrete substrate with a product that will will stop this moisture transfer. It will also prevent the alkali in a concrete from coming out to a surface where it reacts with an atmosphere. Alkali burn causes a paint to bubble, peel and blister off a concrete. With a waterproofed concrete this alkali does not migrate out and form efflorescence salts. When you stabilize concrete, contaminates don't enter and moisture doesn't travel to a surface.
You can, but you want to be sure the ceramic tile is not cracked or broken, make sure it is even, and not loose. It is reccomended that you you always remove any old tile before tiling. You can always lay a subfloor on top of the old tile to ensure your new tile was crack or pop out.
Yes, you can tile over concrete surfaces by first ensuring the concrete is clean, smooth, and free of any cracks or imperfections. Properly preparing the concrete surface and using the right adhesive and grout will help ensure a successful tiling project.
Yes, you can install tile directly on concrete by using a suitable adhesive or mortar to bond the tile to the concrete surface. It is important to ensure that the concrete is clean, level, and free of any cracks or imperfections before installing the tile.
you have to remove paint n rough the surface then put some cement slurry n paste the tile by cement
To replace the decorative tile border on a concrete pool, the pool will have to be drained. The old tile needs to be taken off and a new tile with waterproof grout or concrete can be installed. The pool should dry for a week or so, before it is refilled.
You will need to sand the floor to give the thinset something to stick to.
A heavy-duty electric jackhammer is the best tool for removing tile from a concrete floor.
Hollow concrete tile blocks were first used soon after the ancient Romans developed concrete. It was not very strong, but it was strong enough to be a tile.
Only if the vinyl was previously installed over concrete, and has a positive bond. Scar the finish of the vinyl with a hand sander (course paper), and use a high strength thinset for the installation.
Only if the vinyl was previously installed over concrete, and has a positive bond. Scar the finish of the vinyl with a hand sander (course paper), and use a high strength thinset for the installation.
To remove tile from concrete effectively, start by breaking the tile with a hammer and chisel. Then, use a floor scraper to remove the remaining pieces and adhesive. Finally, clean the concrete surface with a solution of water and vinegar to remove any residue.
Here are some key points to consider when deciding between concrete and tile flooring for building construction: Concrete flooring is durable, long-lasting, and requires minimal maintenance. It is ideal for spaces that are exposed to moisture, such as basements or garages. Tile flooring is available in a wide range of styles and designs, making it a popular choice for residential and commercial spaces. It is also easy to clean, durable, and can add value to a property. Concrete floors can be hard and uncomfortable to stand on for long periods of time. Tile flooring can be more expensive than concrete, and it may require more maintenance over time to prevent cracks, chips, or discoloration. The choice between concrete and tile flooring ultimately depends on the specific needs and preferences of the space and its occupants.
The best type of underlayment for tile on concrete surfaces is a cement backer board. It provides a stable and moisture-resistant base for the tile installation, ensuring durability and longevity.