Yes a ballast uses amperage. That is the number beside the letter A on the ballasts nameplate. Depending on the size of the lamp or lamps will govern the size of the amperage that the ballast will draw.
No, you cannot use one lamp ballast for two lamps unless the ballast is specifically designed for multiple lamps. Each lamp typically requires a certain amount of electrical current and voltage, which a single ballast may not adequately provide for two. Using one ballast for two lamps could lead to improper operation, reduced performance, or damage to the lamps and ballast. Always check the manufacturer's specifications for proper usage.
No, the ballast has to be matched to the lamp. 250 watt ballast, 250 watt lamp. Also be sure to match the lamp type to the proper ballast even though the wattage is the same. HPS ballast to HPS lamp, Metal halide ballast to metal halide lamp and mercury vapour lamp to mercury vapour ballast.
First you need to determine if it's the ballast that's bad or the emergency ballast. The emergency ballast can go bad and cause the bulbs not to work or not all of them to work depending on the lights wiring setup. Push the test button on the emergency ballast which should have a red glowing indicator light. If all the lights illuminate slightly, change the emergency ballast. It's best to buy the exact ballast for this repair. i.e. If it's a T8 3 lamp fixture. Buy a T8 3 lamp ballast not a 4. You can use a 4 in place of a 3 lamp, but the 3 lamp will be more user friendly. Easiest way is to note what wires go to what. Draw a diagram if you have to and just simply match them back up.
The end sockets have to be rewired. The schematic for the rewire is on the ballast label.
depends on its use. If its for residential service its good for 125 amps In commercial and industrial installations it's a bit more complicated but you end up at the same 125 amps.
To answer this question the voltage of the ballast must be stated and the type of lamp in the fixture.
A 1000 watt ballast operating at 120V would draw approximately 8.33 amps of current. This can be calculated by dividing the power (in watts) by the voltage (in volts).
The amperage is printed on the ballast. If your meter reads higher that that what is printed there, then the ballast is drawing more amps that it should.
A ballast typically uses around 5-10 watts of power. In this case, a 150 watt HPS bulb will consume 150 watts of power when turned on. So, in total, the ballast and the bulb together will use around 155-160 watts.
The boat had two different types of ballast.
Look on the ballast inside of the fixture. There is an amperage and a voltage on the ballast label. Use this equation to find the wattage. W = I x E, Watts = Amps x Volts. This will give you the answer that you are looking for.
A ballast is a ballast in most cases. So yes you should be fine.
When you buy the bulb. All of those specifications should be on the package. To figure the Kilowatts it's pulling and cost to run. kW = amps x volts / 1000. then just take your kW x price per kw. and that will give you how much it costs to run that bulb for one hour. The amperage is on the label of the ballast. When you connect the ballast to power you will see it along with the voltage and pf of the ballast. F40T12 twin 8 foot tubes, ballast usually draws about .75 amps.
Watts = Amps x Volts, so 600 W / 240 V = 2.5 A 600 W / 120 V = 5 A 600 W rated balast is more like 660 W in realty, so to be safe, plan for 3A pulled per ballast. P.S. New digital balasts are much closer to 600 W, something in 610 - 620 W range.
No, it is not recommended to use a 70 watt metal halide lamp with a 150 watt ballast. The lamp and ballast wattage should match to ensure proper operation and to prevent damage to the lamp or ballast. It is best to use a compatible lamp and ballast with matching wattages.
yes..if we replace magnetic ballast with electronic ballast...there is no need of starter if we use electronic ballast.
No. The lamp has to match the ballast. The lamp will not ignite if the wrong ballast is used.