From the 2011 NEC, Section 250.130 states, in part, "For replacement of non-grounding-type receptacles with grounding-type receptacles...connections shall be permitted as indicated in 250.130(C)."
Section 250.130 (C) states in its entirety,
"(C) Nongrounding Receptacle Replacement or Branch
Circuit Extensions. The equipment grounding conductor
of a grounding-type receptacle or a branch-circuit extension
shall be permitted to be connected to any of the following:
(1) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode system
as described in 250.50
(2) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode conductor
(3) The equipment grounding terminal bar within the enclosure
where the branch circuit for the receptacle or
branch circuit originates
(4) For grounded systems, the grounded service conductor
within the service equipment enclosure"
(5) For ungrounded systems, the grounding terminal bar
within the service equipment enclosure"
Now for some of my thoughts. It sounds like what you got was adequate. It was correct except for he should have used green or bare conductor, not white, unless he used green tape near the end of the conductor to designate it as green. This tape would be inside the box but I would have marked it outside the box also if it is visible.
I would have run this conductor as close as possible and preferably attached to the existing circuit conductors.
Looping the conductor as you have stated is not the best installation, in my view, but if you have at least 6 inches from the entry of the conductor to the grounding terminal and another 6 inches before it leaves the box, this is ok. The code does not require this 6 inches if the conductor isn't spliced but in your application it should be since, in my view, it should have been spliced.
Solid or stranded is of no significance.
While I have quoted the 2011 NEC in my answer, I do not expect this has changed any in recent years.
The use of the word "bonding" by your electrician was technically incorrect but "bonding" and "grounding" are sometimes used synonymously. They are different but often look alike to the untrained eye. Even electricians often misuse these terms and fail to understand the difference. It takes someone like myself who is a little anal retentive to use the terms properly.
I hope you will acknowledge my answer as I am particularly interested to know if you got it.
Not correctly , It will show on a tester that it is grounded but you should run a separate ground for it to be properly grounded
Yes, If it is unfinished. Reference National Electrical code NFPA 70 for additional details.
A jumper wire should use to bridge electrical ground across?
If you're asking this, you shouldn't be installing an electrical service. --- This type of question usually means you aren't ready to do this yourself. Study some electrical material and the National Electrical Code and work this answer out for yourself, or call a professional electrician. If I were to give you an answer, you might attempt to do something you shouldn't be doing, and that may cost someone a shock, a home fire, or their life.
The water can cause circuits to short or ground out, with hazards of electrical shocks or fires.
Connecting neutral to ground in an electrical circuit can create a dangerous situation called a ground fault. This can lead to electrical shock, fires, and damage to appliances or equipment. It is important to keep neutral and ground separate to ensure the safety and proper functioning of the electrical system.
Keeping the ground and neutral wires separate in the main panel of an electrical system is important for safety. This separation helps prevent electrical shocks and fires by ensuring that current flows properly and does not create dangerous conditions.
Not correctly , It will show on a tester that it is grounded but you should run a separate ground for it to be properly grounded
Yes, the electrical current running through the ground is enough to dirupt a radio signal.
The electrical system is 12 volt negative ground. Really about 13.6 volts while the engine is running, though.
Yes, a sub panel typically requires a separate ground rod to ensure proper grounding and safety in the electrical system.
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hertz supply service.An isolated ground return to the panel means that the wire used for the isolated ground must have insulation on it. This is so that the isolated ground does not touch any adjacent metallic parts of the electrical system until it is placed on the ground block in the distribution panel. On isolated ground receptacles this is accomplished by using a three wire feeder. Black and white wires used as normal receptacle connections. The red wire with a green identifier tape installed to the isolated ground terminal of the receptacle and the bare ground wire to the green frame screw of the isolated ground receptacle.
Yes, If it is unfinished. Reference National Electrical code NFPA 70 for additional details.
Yes a GFCI will work if the neutrals and ground are to together the main panel. This is considered the line side of feed side of the GFCI. Neutral and ground can not touch down stream from the GFCI or on the load side of the GFCI.
No, the common (neutral) and ground wires should not be connected together in the main electrical panel. The common wire is used to carry current back to the electrical panel, while the ground wire is used for safety to prevent electrical shock. They serve different purposes and should remain separate.
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hertz supply service.Underground or using triplex, a new ground has to be established at the new distribution's sub panel. It must be in the form of a ground plate or ground rods with the ground wire being connected to the neutral point in the sub panel.
If there is a GFCI in the circuit it will stop working correctly. They compare ground current to neutral current to detect a fault. It makes ground current equal to neutral current which is a fault condition.