The typical rating of a hot wire relay contacts is 35 amp
If the relay contacts are in series with a connected load, then the load will energize.
The timer will have terminals associated with it. They may be on a relay socket that the relay plugs into. There will be two terminals used to bring the supply voltage to the relay timer. The load will be connected in series to either an open or closed set of contacts on the relay. The load voltage is controlled by the timer relay.The operation is, when the timer relay coil is energized the timing circuit in the relay is energized. This starts counting down until the time set point is reached and then the contacts either open or close depending on what set of contacts that you connected the load to.Some timer relays need to have the timer coil circuit de energized to reset the timing relay, others use a separate input voltage terminal on the relay to reset it without having to de energize the whole relay.
You will need a relay with a low-voltage coil and 220v contacts rated for the current load of the baseboard heater. If you have a low-voltage transformer, see what its output is rated at (typically 24 volts or less). Then go to an electronics parts store or call some place like Digikey (phone 800-344-4539) and tell them you need (for example) a double-pole single-throw normally-open relay with a 24 volt coil and contacts rated at 30 amps at 240 volts (change these numbers to match your situation). If you do not already have a low-voltage transformer the parts store call sell you one to match the relay coil voltage (be sure to specify if you are connecting the transformer input to 120 volts or 240 volts). Then wire it up as follows: connect the transformer output (24 volts in the example above) in series with the thermostat contacts and the relay coil. Connect the 240 volt supply to the moving arms on the relay, and connect the contacts the arms touch when the relay operates to your heater. Now when the temperature drops below its setting the thermostat contacts will close and connect the relay coil to the 24 volts, the relay will operate, and the 240 volts will be connected to the heater. When the temperature rises above the thermostat's setting, its contacts open, the relay contacts open, and the heater is disconnected. Depending on where you live there may also need to be circuit breakers, protective ground wires, etc.--ask an electrician.
The ambient insulation rating of wires and cables is imprinted on the wire and cables. The labels on the cables will tell you the wire size, number of conductors and temperature rating of the wires and cables. The higher the cable and wire temperature ratings the higher the amount of current that is allowed to be drawn by the wire and cable according to the electrical code book.
600amps
The typical rating of a hot wire relay contacts is 35 amp
If the relay contacts are in series with a connected load, then the load will energize.
The relay will turn on and off, usually so fast that it forms a buzzer.
"fuel pump relay contacts dirty or relay bad" I have checked contacts and I have changed the relay....Do you know of anything else?
One way is to use the auxiliary contacts on the motor contactor to close a separate source supply to drive an auxiliary relay.
Look on the side of the relay case. Here you will find the pin configurations for the C class contacts and the pins that connect to the relays coil to operate the relay.
To operate a relay ( I am calling "third relay") from two separate parallel control relays is called logic "or". Connect the power wire coming in to both of the paralleled relays' switch common contact. ( These relays are up to you to wire their coils and activate.) Depending on the logic required you will wire the third relay coil to the paralleled control relays normally open or normally closed contacts. That is: Do you you want the third relay to go on with the control relays activation or off?
The first thing is to see if there is a spare N.O. set of contacts on the alarm relay. If there is a spare set of contacts connect your horn supply to one side of the N.O. contact terminals. Connect the horn to the other side of the N.O. contact terminals. Energize the horn circuit's supply. Now when the alarm circuit relay activates the horn will sound.
I would think that 1984 starter construction, should be very similar to my 1981 starter. The stater relay is set of contacts contain within the Solenoid that is mounted on the side of the stater. Typical solenoid wiring configuration is one large gauge wire (usally coming directly from the battery) and two small gauge wires. The one small wire on the "S" terminal applies power and activates the solenoid when you turn the key, closing the starter relay contacts within the solenoid and applies battery power to stater motor, causing the engine to turn over (crank). Assuming the ignition system is functional and the engine is mechanically operational the engine should run.
The timer will have terminals associated with it. They may be on a relay socket that the relay plugs into. There will be two terminals used to bring the supply voltage to the relay timer. The load will be connected in series to either an open or closed set of contacts on the relay. The load voltage is controlled by the timer relay.The operation is, when the timer relay coil is energized the timing circuit in the relay is energized. This starts counting down until the time set point is reached and then the contacts either open or close depending on what set of contacts that you connected the load to.Some timer relays need to have the timer coil circuit de energized to reset the timing relay, others use a separate input voltage terminal on the relay to reset it without having to de energize the whole relay.
I think what you mean to ask is; "The difference between a current sensing, and potential sensing relay. I've never heard of a potential relay. Relays are "pulled in" by applying voltage to the coil, typically 120Vac, or 24Vdc. A current sensing relay will close its contacts when it is wired to sense a particular amount of current. Instead of applying voltage (turning on) the relay, it closes contacts when current flows through it. HVAC technician ***** A 'current' relay has a coil of low resistance wire (heavy gauge wire, few turns), and is energised only by a large current, such as the initial current of a motor starting. The relay coil is wired in series with the run/main winding of the motor, and the relay contacts are normally open. As the motor tries to start, the large current closes the relay, which momentarily brings the start/aux winding into circuit, allowing the motor to go. Used for split-phase and capacitor-start motors. A 'potential' relay has a coil of high resistance wire (light wire, many turns), and is wired in parallel with the start/aux winding, and the relay contacts are normally closed. At initial motor start-up, high curent will flow through both the run and start windings of the motor. As the motor reaches operating speed, the current reduces, and a "back EMF" is produced allowing current to now pass through the potential relay coil, and open the contacts. Used for capacitor-start and cap-start cap-run motors. Another HVAC technician. you sound like a real ahole. everyone in the field calls them potential relays, in addition look at a schematic on an AC and you'll find "PR" potential relay. what a dip#hit
You will need a relay with a low-voltage coil and 220v contacts rated for the current load of the baseboard heater. If you have a low-voltage transformer, see what its output is rated at (typically 24 volts or less). Then go to an electronics parts store or call some place like Digikey (phone 800-344-4539) and tell them you need (for example) a double-pole single-throw normally-open relay with a 24 volt coil and contacts rated at 30 amps at 240 volts (change these numbers to match your situation). If you do not already have a low-voltage transformer the parts store call sell you one to match the relay coil voltage (be sure to specify if you are connecting the transformer input to 120 volts or 240 volts). Then wire it up as follows: connect the transformer output (24 volts in the example above) in series with the thermostat contacts and the relay coil. Connect the 240 volt supply to the moving arms on the relay, and connect the contacts the arms touch when the relay operates to your heater. Now when the temperature drops below its setting the thermostat contacts will close and connect the relay coil to the 24 volts, the relay will operate, and the 240 volts will be connected to the heater. When the temperature rises above the thermostat's setting, its contacts open, the relay contacts open, and the heater is disconnected. Depending on where you live there may also need to be circuit breakers, protective ground wires, etc.--ask an electrician.