A transformer gets hot if it is run at excessive voltage or excessive current. Either of those two would cause it to overheat.
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It sounds like the load on the secondary is greater that what the transformer can supply. A transformer is wound for a specific amperage output at a specific voltage. This is stated on the transformer as a VA or in larger Transformers as KVA. If you divide the 24 volts into the VA listed on the transformer you will get the maximum amperage value of the transformer. If the device that you are connecting to the transformer is greater in amperage draw that what the transformer can supply, this will cause the heating effect and if left connected eventually burn the transformer out. A fuse should be installed in the secondary 24 volt output, rated at the maximum output of the transformer. This will limit the transformer to its manufacturer's recommended current output.
A transformer that reduces voltage is classed as a step down transformer.
50 VA means about 50 watts. Transformers usually use VA instead of watts because a transformer has very little wasted power, and watts measure power. A 50 va transformer that is 120v. on the primary side will use about .41 amps at 120 volts. On the secondary side, (if it's 24 volts) it will support about 2.08 amps.
36 is to 12 as 18 is to 24.
You will need a relay with a low-voltage coil and 220v contacts rated for the current load of the baseboard heater. If you have a low-voltage transformer, see what its output is rated at (typically 24 volts or less). Then go to an electronics parts store or call some place like Digikey (phone 800-344-4539) and tell them you need (for example) a double-pole single-throw normally-open relay with a 24 volt coil and contacts rated at 30 amps at 240 volts (change these numbers to match your situation). If you do not already have a low-voltage transformer the parts store call sell you one to match the relay coil voltage (be sure to specify if you are connecting the transformer input to 120 volts or 240 volts). Then wire it up as follows: connect the transformer output (24 volts in the example above) in series with the thermostat contacts and the relay coil. Connect the 240 volt supply to the moving arms on the relay, and connect the contacts the arms touch when the relay operates to your heater. Now when the temperature drops below its setting the thermostat contacts will close and connect the relay coil to the 24 volts, the relay will operate, and the 240 volts will be connected to the heater. When the temperature rises above the thermostat's setting, its contacts open, the relay contacts open, and the heater is disconnected. Depending on where you live there may also need to be circuit breakers, protective ground wires, etc.--ask an electrician.
On the 24vac side, this would include any load attached or powered by the transformer. A wire than has gone to ground (shorted), or rubbed into the ductwork (stat wire). The transformer will be rated at xxva, meaning volts X amps aka(watts). Most residential equip. will have a 40va fitted. 40 / 24= 1.66 amps. Any load in excess of this should cause a failure. If you are trying to fix this yourself, put a 2amp automotive fuse in series with one of the 24vac "out" leads and go one by one, isolating the gas valve, wiring to the thermostat, etc, till the fuse quits blowing. Otherwise, call a tech. lc
A transformer that reduces voltage is classed as a step down transformer.
The recommended voltage requirement for a thermostat compatible with a 24 volt transformer is 24 volts.
The recommended voltage input for a 24 VAC transformer is typically around 120 volts.
The recommended voltage for a Ring doorbell transformer is typically 16 to 24 volts.
The recommended voltage requirement for a thermostat compatible with a 24V transformer is 24 volts.
A control transformer marked 240V - 24Vac would have a control voltage of 24 volts.
Current overload from whatever circuit draws current from the transformer? Proper fusing of its supply might protect a transformer from this cause. Or it could have developed a shorted turn fault because the insulation on a winding got old and perished? Or maybe the transformer got damaged if the appliance it is mounted in was dropped?
The recommended voltage requirement for a doorbell system powered by a 24V doorbell transformer is 24 volts.
Transformers that operate specific devices should be matched to the specific voltage on the device that the manufacturer specifies.
If you mean connecting two different voltages in parallel, you would have a "short circuit" where the 196-volt differential is dissipated in any high-resistance point in the circuit, creating a lot of heat for a very short time (as something suffers thermal runaway and catastrophic breakdown). You could get an explosion and fire. On the other hand, if you have a 24-volt DEVICE and plug it into 220 volts, the result would depend upon what kind of device it is. For instance, if it's a 120/24-volt step-down transformer and you plug in the 24 volts to 220, you will be running the transformer "backward" and create 1,100 volts at the "output". If the transformer's design does not include adequate insulation for 1,100 volts, you would have dielectric breakdown, and another possible "short circuit" when things melt and conductors touch each other.
F.A.U turned off Bad transformer Blown low voltage fuse
The key is the door bell specification. They typically run on a 24 VAC transformer. You can certainly hook it up and try it with 9 volts, but it probably won't work as intended. 24 Volt transformers are relatively cheap.