SettingSetting begins to occur after the concrete is mixed and even before pouring. The cement in the concrete begins to stiffen after mixed with water. The concrete is beginning to change from liquid form to solid form. During the setting process, the concrete does gain strength, which is the beginning of the hardening process. When the water ingredient is added to the concrete mix, the concrete is still pliable and flexible, sort of a paste. There is two stages of setting: initial and final setting. Initial setting is when the concrete loses it flexibility and begins to harden. Final setting is when the concrete can sustain some load, but still has some moisture within the mixture.HardeningHardening of the concrete is the stage when the mixture gains strength. The cement ingredient begins to attach itself to the aggregate as the water dries off the mixture. The hydration of water is what starts the hardening process. It generally takes five to seven days for the concrete to complete the hardening process. The easiest way to increase the strength of concrete is to add cement to the mixture. The more water used in the mixture, the weaker the concrete and it will also delay the hardening process. Once the concrete has hydrated all the water from the mixture, the hardening process is complete and the concrete is as strong as it will get.
Normally you have to cut them off with a grinder. A grinder with a metal cutting blade will allow you to take them down flush with the concrete. Wear eye protection though it does throw lots of sparks and some concrete.
The standard mix design for all purpose concrete is as easy as 1,2,3.One part cement, Two parts sand, and 3 parts gravel. Add water slowly until the mix achieves the desired consistency. Generally, about 1/4 to 2/3 gallon of water will do the trick. You should almost always achieve a compressive strength of at least 2800 lbs. as long as you don't overdo it with the water. If your mix will require some amount of "man-handling" to properly place, a slightly wetter mix will make that easier. A drier mix is nice when forming curbs and inclined surfaces, or if you need to get the surface finished and nicely troweled in a hurry.A standard size wheelbarrow will hold a manageable size mix using 2:4:6 (simply doubling the formula.) This is enough concrete to fill a large post holeFor a very small batch, use a 3/8" minus gravel. For a larger batch you could use 3/4" or even 1" minus if you need to stretch your sand and cement.Answer16 shovels of sand,7shovels aggragate(small rock),and on 90lb.bag Portland cement,4 to 7 gal. clean water.AnswerPlace above dry mix in suitable mixing conatainer (such as a wheelbarrow), add water slowly while turning the dry mix with a shovel or hoe. Continue adding water until mix has desired consistancy. Slightly 'dryer' than pancake batter is my preference.Answera small child's swimming pool is what i have used for a long time their cheap and disposable ( I take mine to the recycling drop off after they crack)AnswerThe old Italian way is to place the cement and sand mixture in a pile on a flat surface. Using a shovel make a hole in the center, creating a ring. Pour water in the center and start bringing the dry material into the center. Keep doing this until the material has become completely wet. Continue to turn the mixture over with the shovel combining everything into a firm but moist consistency. To test if your mixture has enough cement in it, pull some out with your index finger and turn it upside down. If it sticks then you're good; if it falls off you have too much sand. Please note that cement WILL burn through your skin, so make sure you wash your hands.you can also use a 5 gallon pail. add about 2 quarts of water to the pail , add approx. 40 # of concrete mix, than add about 2 quarts more water, than mix with a landscape shovel by by twisting in the bucket, till you have a pancake thickness.AnswerA classic concrete recipe is one shovelful of Portland cement to two shovelsful of sand to three of small rock. You want ROCK, not gravel--gravel is graded for size, and using rock of varying sizes gives the concrete more strength since the little rocks interlock with the bigger ones. Anyway, you want a wheelbarrow to mix it in, a mortar hoe (it's got two holes in the blade) to mix it with and forms to put it in.
If your use of the word "cement" actually means concrete, the answer is maybe? Concrete may be placed on an existing concrete surface however you must proceed with caution! There are many floor leveling or topping products if you are merely trying to achieve a new look or raise an elevation slightly. This might be a better choice for you than placing new concrete directly on an existing concrete. Why? Very smooth [ called steel troweled ] concrete has been finished to give a car showroom type appearance and is tough to get a bond to take. Heavy traffic will exacerbate the problem. The problem in obtaining a good bond for a patch or repair, or in the case, new over aged concrete is loss of water and premature hydration. Your new concrete mix has a predetermined amount of water in the mix, based on conditions, temperature, wind, humidity, desired slump and strength, etc. Most often, water from the new concrete will be absorbed into the host material, thus decreasing the intended amount needed to properly hydrate your new material. When this happens shrinkage cracks and loss of bond occur. Slurry mixes or bonding agents are used to slow this absorption into the host material, but are sometimes not effective. I recommend waterproofing the host material 48 hours before the new material is placed. Waterproofing the aged surface will stop moisture from wicking out of your fresh concrete and provide the bond needed. Very thin concrete overlays exposed to heavy traffic aren't recommended, best off to go with a leveling product! If you do use concrete, finish it off with a waterproofing application. This will waterproof the new surface and not allow moisture to penetrate down deep enough to compromise an already ify bond you may be dealing with.
you have to sand blast it off
Yes you can. Substitute 20% of the water for the cement mix with latex paint (Water based paint) and mix slow and thorough. Don't over used too much paint it will damage the integrity of the concrete.
First, things are not made of cement- they are made of concrete- which consists of cement, sand, gravel and water. Mix them using 1 part cement, 1.5 parts sand, 3 parts gravel. To calculate how much CONCRETE you need, multiply depth X width X length in inches, then divide by 1728. This will tell you the number of cubic FEET of concrete. To get the number of cubic YARDS, divide the cubic feet by 27. If you are using packaged concrete mix (Sakrete is one) then an 80 lb bag makes 0.6 cubic feet of concrete. NOTE: If you are working with concrete for the first time- do not add too much water (weakens the concrete) and do not get wet concrete on bare skin- it will cause a chemical burn. Wash it off promptly if you do.
Some breeds of termites can eat through concrete if there is mud around it. They like to live in the mud and then they will eat off of the concrete that surrounds them.
Concrete is a well proportioned mixture of cement and other cementitious materials such as fly ash and slag cement, coarse aggregate made of crushed stone, fine aggregate such as sand, water, and chemical admixtures. The more inclusive answer is that concrete is a matrix of stone/sand aggregate adhered into a mass with a binding agent like Portland Cement or hot asphalt oil. This can refer to a person: He was as solid as concrete and would not move off his position.
Dry cement in bags is stored in a dry place protected from the weather. For large construction sites this is usually a secure storage area. If you are talking about mixed cement (wet) or concrete, then it is not stored on a construction site. It is mixed off-site and carried to the site in large "cement mixer" trucks. The it is placed (or poured) prior to the initial setting time specified by the concrete manufacturer.
SettingSetting begins to occur after the concrete is mixed and even before pouring. The cement in the concrete begins to stiffen after mixed with water. The concrete is beginning to change from liquid form to solid form. During the setting process, the concrete does gain strength, which is the beginning of the hardening process. When the water ingredient is added to the concrete mix, the concrete is still pliable and flexible, sort of a paste. There is two stages of setting: initial and final setting. Initial setting is when the concrete loses it flexibility and begins to harden. Final setting is when the concrete can sustain some load, but still has some moisture within the mixture.HardeningHardening of the concrete is the stage when the mixture gains strength. The cement ingredient begins to attach itself to the aggregate as the water dries off the mixture. The hydration of water is what starts the hardening process. It generally takes five to seven days for the concrete to complete the hardening process. The easiest way to increase the strength of concrete is to add cement to the mixture. The more water used in the mixture, the weaker the concrete and it will also delay the hardening process. Once the concrete has hydrated all the water from the mixture, the hardening process is complete and the concrete is as strong as it will get.
A cement bug is a term typically used in construction to describe a small defect or imperfection in a concrete surface, such as a blemish or discolored spot. It can result from issues during the mixing or pouring of concrete, leading to an irregularity in the finished product. Addressing cement bugs usually involves repair work to correct the imperfection and ensure the surface is smooth and uniform.
Concrete is a well proportioned mixture of cement and other cementitious materials such as fly ash and slag cement, coarse aggregate made of crushed stone, fine aggregate such as sand, water, and chemical admixtures. The more inclusive answer is that concrete is a matrix of stone/sand aggregate adhered into a mass with a binding agent like Portland Cement or hot asphalt oil. This can refer to a person: He was as solid as concrete and would not move off his position.
Normally you have to cut them off with a grinder. A grinder with a metal cutting blade will allow you to take them down flush with the concrete. Wear eye protection though it does throw lots of sparks and some concrete.
Bob the Builder's concrete mixer is named Dizzy. Dizzy is an orange, off-road cement mixer with a bright and enthusiastic personality. She is always ready to help Bob and the team with construction projects.
Well, honey, you won't be needing any molasses to make concrete hollow blocks. You're better off sticking to the traditional ingredients like cement, sand, and gravel. Save the molasses for your cookies, not your construction projects!
The standard mix design for all purpose concrete is as easy as 1,2,3.One part cement, Two parts sand, and 3 parts gravel. Add water slowly until the mix achieves the desired consistency. Generally, about 1/4 to 2/3 gallon of water will do the trick. You should almost always achieve a compressive strength of at least 2800 lbs. as long as you don't overdo it with the water. If your mix will require some amount of "man-handling" to properly place, a slightly wetter mix will make that easier. A drier mix is nice when forming curbs and inclined surfaces, or if you need to get the surface finished and nicely troweled in a hurry.A standard size wheelbarrow will hold a manageable size mix using 2:4:6 (simply doubling the formula.) This is enough concrete to fill a large post holeFor a very small batch, use a 3/8" minus gravel. For a larger batch you could use 3/4" or even 1" minus if you need to stretch your sand and cement.Answer16 shovels of sand,7shovels aggragate(small rock),and on 90lb.bag Portland cement,4 to 7 gal. clean water.AnswerPlace above dry mix in suitable mixing conatainer (such as a wheelbarrow), add water slowly while turning the dry mix with a shovel or hoe. Continue adding water until mix has desired consistancy. Slightly 'dryer' than pancake batter is my preference.Answera small child's swimming pool is what i have used for a long time their cheap and disposable ( I take mine to the recycling drop off after they crack)AnswerThe old Italian way is to place the cement and sand mixture in a pile on a flat surface. Using a shovel make a hole in the center, creating a ring. Pour water in the center and start bringing the dry material into the center. Keep doing this until the material has become completely wet. Continue to turn the mixture over with the shovel combining everything into a firm but moist consistency. To test if your mixture has enough cement in it, pull some out with your index finger and turn it upside down. If it sticks then you're good; if it falls off you have too much sand. Please note that cement WILL burn through your skin, so make sure you wash your hands.you can also use a 5 gallon pail. add about 2 quarts of water to the pail , add approx. 40 # of concrete mix, than add about 2 quarts more water, than mix with a landscape shovel by by twisting in the bucket, till you have a pancake thickness.AnswerA classic concrete recipe is one shovelful of Portland cement to two shovelsful of sand to three of small rock. You want ROCK, not gravel--gravel is graded for size, and using rock of varying sizes gives the concrete more strength since the little rocks interlock with the bigger ones. Anyway, you want a wheelbarrow to mix it in, a mortar hoe (it's got two holes in the blade) to mix it with and forms to put it in.