Most of the time it is 4 inch.
I think the standard is a 4-5" pipe for toilet exhausts. To use a 2" pipe is asking for trouble. Friends of mine have the toilets that grind the waste in a box behind the cistern before it is flushed away. They both have had no end of trouble with the systems which grinds and flushes goes away through a standard size 22mm copper pipe to the sewer line. It is one thing to 'economise' and put up with the inconvenience of the smell and stuff like that - undoing the grind box to get to clogged blades - and there is the costs of "doing the job properly". I really advise you to do the job properly. Less hassle in the end.
No.
Yes, if your local jurisdiction allows it. In California many replacement sewer lines are using HDPE because it is a common pipe to use for trenchless installations.
Never,ever less then 4 " and a 3" FAI
I would use 3 inch for that.
First there should be no reason the a home needs a 4 inch waste line. Three inch is more then enough. But if you insist use a "consentric' reducer as opposed to the " "ecentric". Other wise your waste will have to jump up from the four inch , and you will have back up.
Most of the time it is 4 inch.
To locate and access the home sewer cleanout for maintenance and repairs, start by checking the perimeter of your home for a capped pipe sticking out of the ground. This pipe is usually located near the main sewer line. Use a wrench to remove the cap and access the cleanout for maintenance and repairs.
This may be an old sewer system probably going to a septic drain field. Before you discard this be sure you have a working potty draining system.
A sewer clean out is a capped pipe access point in a plumbing system that allows for easy access to clear blockages and clean out debris from the sewer line. It functions by providing a direct entry point for plumbers to use specialized tools to remove clogs and maintain the proper flow of wastewater in the system.
Only a suggestion, but if in doubt use a snap-cutter. In a well ventillated area, methane volatility is a low risk hazard with regards to old sanitary sewer pipe. if you think there might be gases present,you need to wear a proper breathing mask === === I think he meant gases inside the pipe, not in the room the pipe is in.
If you can get to the 6 inch cast iron, you could use a rubber coupler between the cast and the flange. If it is in the concrete, put a piece of 4 inch PVC inside the 6 inch and lead it in like you would a regular cast joint. Leave the 4 inch above the floor and slide the flange over it, screw it down and cut the 4 inch flush with the flange. They make just the flange that will slide over the pipe.
Common signs of a clogged sewer pipe include slow draining sinks, gurgling noises from drains, foul odors, and water backing up in toilets or drains. To effectively clear a clogged sewer pipe, you can use a plumber's snake, a sewer auger, or hydro-jetting to break up and remove the blockage. It is recommended to seek professional help if the clog persists.
Absolutely Not!
Use a tape measure!
I think the standard is a 4-5" pipe for toilet exhausts. To use a 2" pipe is asking for trouble. Friends of mine have the toilets that grind the waste in a box behind the cistern before it is flushed away. They both have had no end of trouble with the systems which grinds and flushes goes away through a standard size 22mm copper pipe to the sewer line. It is one thing to 'economise' and put up with the inconvenience of the smell and stuff like that - undoing the grind box to get to clogged blades - and there is the costs of "doing the job properly". I really advise you to do the job properly. Less hassle in the end.