A series circuit. Turning off the light interrupted the only path for electricity to the hair dryer.
No, it opens the circuit so that no current flows.
240V appliances, such as range, dryer, air conditioner.
I don't know about Illinois but check the Fuel Gas Code. I have never heard of PVC being allowed for a Clothes Dryer Vent.
1. Maybe you are using more than you think. Hair dryers really suck a lot of juice. 2. You may have a low-amp breaker with a lot of outlets wired to it. 3. It really depends on how many amps are being pulled vs how many amps the breaker can handle. What you need to do is identify every light and outlet that is wired to that breaker. Next time the breaker trips, leave it off and start figuring this out. Identify every light that is no longer working. Then carry a lamp (better yet, a night-light) around your house and try it in every outlet, identifying the ones that don't work. Before you flip the breaker switch, look at the switch. It should tell you how many amps it can handle before it trips. Overhead light fixture generally suck about 2-3 amps. A celing fan another 2-3 (a combination ceiling fan with light kit, around 5). Add up all the fixtures you identified as being on that circuit, and that's how many amps you are pulling, even when nothing is plugged into an outlet on that circuit. Now, a general rule in electrical wiring is that you're not supposed to have fixtures and outlets on the same circuit. I don't think there's any real danger in doing that, but it just kind of makes it easier to keep everything organized. So it may or may not be true in your house. So you may not have any fixtures at all on the circuit. If you don't, then ignore the lights and ceiling fans. Your load on that circuit is whatever appliances you have plugged in and running at the time. If you DO have fixtures on the circuit, then you can add the amps from those fixtures. Growing up, I lived in a house where the kitchen, bathroom, and laundry room were all on the same circuit. That circuit must have been a huge number of amps to support all that. But nevertheless, if you turned on the hair dryer while the clothes dryer and bathroom vent were both on, it tripped the breaker every time. And the lights went out in all three rooms. Solutions? Well, if turning on your hair dryer is what causes the breaker to trip, you can try drying your hair when other things on that circuit are not operating. Or just plug your hair dryer in to an outlet that is not on that breaker. That's the easiest thing to do. You might also think about putting a bigger (more amps) breaker on that circuit in your breaker box (I suggest you don't do this yourself - hire an electrician). Another option is to change some of the outlets and/or fixtures to another circuit, one that doesnt have as much load on it. This will require some re-wiring, which, with a little bit of knowledge, you can do yourself. But if you are not comfortable with that, then again, hire an electrician. Overhead fixtures aren't so bad because the wiring is usually up in your attic. You just need to identify which wires are on which circuits and divert another circuit to include your fixtures. Also, you need to make sure that the old circuit is still continuous (if there was a fixture in between the breaker and an outlet, or between two outlets, and you took that fixture off the circuit, then you have to complete the circuit between the breaker and outlet, or between the two outlets, directly - make sense?). The thing that you have to keep in mind is that, while you are decreasing the load on one circuit, you are increasing the load on the other circuit, and you don't want to put so much on the other circuit that it starts to trip. Oh one warning. Anything that draw a LOT of amps, like a hair dryer or clothes dryer or chop saw, should never be plugged into any outlet that is on the same circuit with electronic devices (TVs, stereos, computers, DVD players). Even if it doesn't trip the breaker (a potential disaster for some electronics), the current change created by turning the high-amp appliance on and off can damage the sensitive components of such electronics. So-called "surge protectors" are not sufficient for protecting your electronic equipment from this - they only protect against minor fluctuations caused by slight changes in the current coming into your house.
Water in your dryer vent can be caused by several issues, primarily related to improper venting. If the vent is clogged with lint or debris, moisture from the dryer cannot escape, leading to condensation and water buildup. Additionally, if the venting system is too long or has too many bends, it can trap moisture. Lastly, high humidity in the laundry area might also contribute to water accumulation.
Yes, the tripped circuit breaker has affected the operation of the dryer.
Around 34% of house fires are caused by clothes dryers, with the majority of these fires being caused by dirty or clogged dryer vents. Regular cleaning and maintenance of dryer vents can help prevent fire hazards.
The recommended wire size for a 30 amp dryer circuit is typically 10 gauge wire.
A dryer does not require a quick disconnect breaker. However, it is recommended to have a dedicated circuit with a proper circuit breaker for the dryer to ensure safe operation and to meet building code requirements.
If the dryer circuit breaker keeps tripping, you should first unplug the dryer and reset the breaker. Check for any visible damage to the dryer's cord or plug. If the issue persists, it may be a sign of a larger electrical problem and you should contact a qualified electrician to inspect and repair the circuit.
If the GFI that is tripping is a different circuit, there is electrical leakage between the circuit the GFI is controlling, and the dryer circuit. It is possible that there is some cross wiring in the electrical box. I would strongly recommend getting a licensed electrician to look at it, preferably before you have a fire. If the GFI is the same circuit as the one where the dryer is plugged in, you might want to have the dryer checked for leakage to ground. You should also check the dryer circuit's rating against the rating of the breaker in its circuit. A dryer typically takes 30A on usually a single two-gang breaker; if you have a larger dryer that pulls, say, 45A, a 30A breaker will always pop. It sounds to me like a bad electrician has, instead of buying a proper two-gang 30-A breaker, installed your dryer across two circuits, one being the garage GFI circuit; the dryer, because it pulls 220V, pulls an unbalanced load across the GFI and triggers it, and the other circuit breaker is triggered because it loses the extra power provided through the GFI. I cannot emphasize this enough: get this checked out and fixed. Now. Before you get a house fire.
There could be several reasons why your dryer is not turning on. It could be due to a faulty power source, a broken door switch, a malfunctioning thermal fuse, or a problem with the dryer's motor. It is recommended to check these components and consult a professional if needed.
An electric dryer could short circuit due to a faulty heating element, damaged power cord, loose connections, or overload of the electrical circuit. It is important to have a professional electrician diagnose and repair the issue to ensure safety and proper functioning of the dryer.
A common reason for a tripped electrical circuit when plugging in a tumble dryer could be an overload of the circuit. Tumble dryers require a high amount of power to operate, and if the electrical circuit is already stressed with other appliances, it may trip as a safety precaution. It is advisable to have a dedicated circuit for a tumble dryer to prevent tripping.
No you can only have one dryer on a 240v circuit and nothing else can be attached to it either considering your using a 240v electric dryer
The recommended wire gauge for a 10/3 dryer circuit installation is typically 10 AWG copper wire.
When the switch is moved to the "off" position, the circuit connecting the power source to the heating element is broken, stopping the flow of electricity. This causes the heating element to cool down, eventually turning off the hair dryer.