For a US 3-prong plug, a smaller slot should be hot, the longer slot should be neutral, and the screw that holds the plate on should be ground. Cheap, inexpensive testers are available at hardware stores.
HERE'S AN EXAMPLE: IF THE POLARITY IS BACKWARDS AT A LIGHT FIXTURE THEN THE HOT (120VOLTS) WILL BE THE OUTSIDE OF THE LIGHT BULB SCREW SHELL AND THE MIDDLE PRONG INSIDE THE SOCKET WILL BE THE NEUTRAL -- THEREFORE WHEN YOU CHANGE THE BURNT OUT LIGHT BULB YOU WILL GET SHOCKED BECAUSE THE SCREW SHELL PART IS HOT!! IF WIRED CORRECTLY YOU WILL NOT GET SHOCKED BECAUSE THE HOT (120VOLTS) WILL BE INSIDE THE SCREW SHELL ON THE PRONG AND YOU WON'T BE TOUCHING THAT PART WHEN YOU CHANGE THE LIGHT BULB!!
The assumption here is that you're refering to a standard A/C (alternating current) circuit such as those found in the average household or business. In a typical household the power supplied by the power company actually reverses polarity 60 times a second (60 Hz), hence the term alternating current (A/C). In Europe the standard frequency or Hertz (Hz) is 50 at 220 volts. The U.S. standard is, of course, 110 VAC at 60 Hz. So, in answer to your question In most systems you have a 0 volt potential *neutral and a 110 or 220 volt potential *hot, when this gets wired in reverse safety problems can arise, such as a nasty shock when touching grounded equipment.
The last fixture in a parallel circuit is wired the same as the first. In North America, all of the fixtures are wired black wire to black wire and white wire to white wire. The black wire being the "hot" wire and the white wire being the neutral wire.
Yes. For sourcing output, the relay coil is wired to (common or ground) and the output terminal. For sinking output, the relay is wired to (voltage supply or hot) and the output terminal.
We don't get shocked when we touch neutral and ground because neutral is grounded back at the distribution panel, so the effective voltage between neutral and ground is very low. It won't be zero, because there is current flowing on neutral, causing a voltage difference between the load and the distribution panel, but it is low enough, assuming there is no malfunction, to not cause a shock.In the case of touching hot and neutral, or hot and ground, you will get shocked because there is line voltage between hot and neutral, and because neutral and ground are connected together, there is also line voltage between hot and ground.Note, however, that connecting a load between hot and ground is a violation of the code and the intent of the design, because ground is not rated to carry current except in short term fault conditions - you must always connect a load between hot and neutral, or between hot and hot, as the case may be.
the hot and neutral are wired forwards the ground and neutral are wired backwards
If wired properly the ridged wire is the neutral.
Yes in AC circuits the terminology reversed polarity means the hot and neutral are reversed to what they should be. In DC circuits reversed polarity means that the positive and negative terminals are reversed to what they should be.
Everything will flow backwards
The smallest slot is the hot side the larger slot is the neutral slot assuming the outlet was wired correctly.
Disconnect it from the hard wired source and install a male plug on the fixture. Small blade is black hot, wider blade is white neutral.
The question makes no sense.
Hot Wired Monstertrux was created in 1993.
No, the black wire is typically used as the hot wire in a standard electrical circuit in North America. The neutral wire is usually white. It is important to always verify the proper wiring colors and configurations, as they can vary by region and application.
It will depend on how your switches are wired. Where the hot and neutral are. Leave more information as to what wires are where and a better answer can be left. I started to explain, but there are just too many different ways depending on how everything is wired.
HERE'S AN EXAMPLE: IF THE POLARITY IS BACKWARDS AT A LIGHT FIXTURE THEN THE HOT (120VOLTS) WILL BE THE OUTSIDE OF THE LIGHT BULB SCREW SHELL AND THE MIDDLE PRONG INSIDE THE SOCKET WILL BE THE NEUTRAL -- THEREFORE WHEN YOU CHANGE THE BURNT OUT LIGHT BULB YOU WILL GET SHOCKED BECAUSE THE SCREW SHELL PART IS HOT!! IF WIRED CORRECTLY YOU WILL NOT GET SHOCKED BECAUSE THE HOT (120VOLTS) WILL BE INSIDE THE SCREW SHELL ON THE PRONG AND YOU WON'T BE TOUCHING THAT PART WHEN YOU CHANGE THE LIGHT BULB!!
Well there is no possible way because the 2006 Suzuki SM-400 can be hot wired.