RLA, or "Reliability, Availability, and Maintainability," of a motor refers to the assessment of its operational effectiveness and longevity. Reliability indicates the motor's performance consistency over time without failure, availability measures the proportion of time the motor is operational and ready for use, and maintainability assesses how easily the motor can be repaired or serviced. Together, these factors help determine the overall performance and efficiency of the motor in various applications.
RLA stands for "Rated Load Amperes," which indicates the maximum current the motor should draw under normal operating conditions at full load. LRA stands for "Locked Rotor Amperes," representing the current drawn by the motor when the rotor is not moving, such as during startup or when it is stalled. Understanding these values is essential for selecting appropriate circuit protection and ensuring the motor operates efficiently.
First, check the nameplate on the motor. The FLA or full load amperage is the required start up current and is typically 125-150 % higher than the running load amperage (RLA). So a current draw of 39.5 while starting would be normal for a motor drawing 25 A in run mode.You don't need any calculations. If the stated RLA is close to 25 A and you're drawing 25 A then the motor is fine. As long as you're supplying the correct full voltage required by the motor, it will operate at "full capacity". There are numerous formulas for motors. I would need to know the motor's horsepower, voltage, whether it's single or three phase and its stated efficiency (EFF on the nameplate), the FLA and RLA to tell you if the motor is running properly or if it's going bad.
You can't measure an RLA. It is determined by the factory that manufactured the compressor. To answer your other question, a 230 volt load is actually using both legs as part of the circuit, so you can measure either leg with a current meter but there is no need to add them up.
If your motor is rated for only 208 volts you may not be able to use 230 volts for it. It will run, but may shorten the life of the motor. Motors are rated with a 10% tolerance for voltage. This means that a 208 volt motor has a maximum voltage rating of 228.8 volts. So measure you voltage supply and see if it is below 228.8 with a good RMS voltmeter. If it is, you are good to go. If it is not there are two ways to make it work. 1. Put a high wattage ballast resister in series with the supply voltage to drop the voltage to the motor within range of 187.2 to 228.8 volts. To determine the value of the resistor take the Horse Power of the motor and multiply it by 746. This will give the wattage of the resistor, use one at least 20% larger. Next take the Rated Load Amps (RLA) or Full Load Amps (FLA) of the motor and divide it into the difference between 230 (voltage supply) and the 208 (rated motor voltage), this will get you close to the resistance value of the Ballast resistor you need to use. So a 1/2 HP motor with a 1.2 RLA will require about a 18 ohm, 500 watt ballast resistor. This is not the recommended method, but will work. 2. Install a Buck & Boost transformer rate for the HP of the motor that will Buck the supply voltage for the motor down to 208 volts. This is the recommended way and the only way it should be done. Any good commercial electrical supply house can help you properly size the transformer that you will need.
Full load amps is found on the motor's nameplate, and is unique to that particular brand and model number. A Magnetec 2hp motor will draw different amps than a Baldor 2hp, etc. There are high efficiency motors, and not so high as well. Consult the nameplate. If you want a "rule of thumb" to estimate the RLA (Running Load Amps - this is the term most often found on the nameplate - same as full load amps), then use this: Figure about 1400 watts per horsepower. Divide Watts by volts to get Amps, for example: * 3hp motor, 120V * 3hp X 1400 W = 4200 W * 4200 W / 120 V = 35 A This formula is only for single-phase motors! I looked up a typical 3hp 120 V Baldor motor in the Grainger's catalog, and the RLA for it was 32.0, so this will get you in the ballpark. I have seen 3hp 120 V motors as low as 25 A and as high as 40, so DO NOT use the rule of thumb to size branch circuit conductors or overcurrent protection! For 3-phase motors: Figure about 1100 watts per horsepower (3-phase is a little more efficient). Divide Watts by Volts, then divide the answer by 1.73 to get Amps, for example: * 3hp motor, 208V 3Ph * 3hp X 1100 W = 3300 W * 3300 W / 208 V = 15.86 * 15.86 / 1.73 = 9.16 A This formula is only for 3-phase motors! My Grainger's catalog motor with the same Voltage and HP had a nameplate rating of 8.34 A.
To convert LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) and RLA (Running Load Amps) to amps, you typically just use the values directly, as they are already expressed in amps. LRA indicates the current drawn by the motor when it is starting and locked, while RLA is the current it draws during normal operation. For example, if you have an LRA of 690 and an RLA of 147, those values represent the motor's current in amps during their respective conditions.
Rated load amps = rla
RLA stands for "Rated Load Amperes," which indicates the maximum current the motor should draw under normal operating conditions at full load. LRA stands for "Locked Rotor Amperes," representing the current drawn by the motor when the rotor is not moving, such as during startup or when it is stalled. Understanding these values is essential for selecting appropriate circuit protection and ensuring the motor operates efficiently.
To calculate the Run Load Amps (RLA) if it is not given, you can use the formula: RLA = Horsepower x 746 / Efficiency x Voltage x Power Factor x √3 x FLA, where FLA is the Full Load Amps. You need to know the motor's horsepower, efficiency, voltage, and power factor to determine the RLA. If these values are not known, you may need to contact the manufacturer or consult the motor's specifications.
RLA in eletrical terms is Reading Language Arts.
rla run load amps lra locked rotor amps.
15 RLA (Right of Line Abreast) to Fla (Florida) does not have a direct conversion as they are different units of measurement and do not represent the same thing. RLA is a military term for a tactical formation, while Fla is the abbreviation for the state of Florida.
run load ampers
First, check the nameplate on the motor. The FLA or full load amperage is the required start up current and is typically 125-150 % higher than the running load amperage (RLA). So a current draw of 39.5 while starting would be normal for a motor drawing 25 A in run mode.You don't need any calculations. If the stated RLA is close to 25 A and you're drawing 25 A then the motor is fine. As long as you're supplying the correct full voltage required by the motor, it will operate at "full capacity". There are numerous formulas for motors. I would need to know the motor's horsepower, voltage, whether it's single or three phase and its stated efficiency (EFF on the nameplate), the FLA and RLA to tell you if the motor is running properly or if it's going bad.
Republican Literation Association
You can't measure an RLA. It is determined by the factory that manufactured the compressor. To answer your other question, a 230 volt load is actually using both legs as part of the circuit, so you can measure either leg with a current meter but there is no need to add them up.
The term "RLA" stands for "Rated Load Amperage," which indicates the maximum current an air conditioning compressor is expected to draw under normal operating conditions. For a 1-ton air conditioner compressor, the RLA typically ranges from about 5 to 10 amps, depending on the specific model and efficiency of the unit. It's important to check the manufacturer's specifications for the exact RLA value.