You need a ground (which should be insulated because if you ever get energy on that wire it's going to be very high voltage) on any radio system with an outside antenna because of lightning - lightning likes to find the biggest conductor it can to go to, and your antenna is probably the biggest conductor on your block...especially if you like working the 40-meter, 80-meter and 160-meter bands. If your antenna gets struck by lightning, the ground will help direct the electricity to ground rather than to your headset.
The minimum size equipment grounding conductor required by the NEC for a branch circuit protected by a 50-ampere rated circuit breaker is 10 AWG copper or 8 AWG aluminum.
For service sizes of 100 amps and less a #8 bare copper conductor is required.
For a 400 Amp service with 500 MCM conductors, the minimum size grounding electrode conductor required would be 3/0 AWG copper or 250 kcmil aluminum based on the NEC Table 250.66.
A common choice for outdoor grounding conductors is 6 AWG copper wire, as it provides a good balance of conductivity and durability for outdoor use. However, the specific gauge conductor required may vary depending on factors like the size of the grounding system and local building codes.
When installing and Isolated circuit, the orange-insulated conductor is required to be connected to the nickel-plated screw of recepticals
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.Equipment grounding conductors are not based on the size of the live and neutral conductors. Equipment grounding conductors are based on the amp rating of the circuit, which may or may not be the same ampacity of the conductors of the circuit.However, working backwards, a 16mm conductor is the same as a 3/0 conductor, which is rated for 200amps, which requires an equipment grounding conductor (earth) of at least 6 AWG copper / 4 AWG aluminum. If your circuit is rated higher (usually the breaker size) than 200 amps a larger conductor may be required.As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
No, an equipment grounding conductor is not required in PVC conduit because PVC is non-conductive and does not provide a path for electrical fault currents to flow. However, it may still be required by code depending on the specific application and local regulations. It's always best to consult with a qualified electrician or local building code official for guidance.
The grounding conductor of a service distribution is sized by the ampacity of the service. By just stating the wire size, this does not give this information, as many variables enter into what wires are used depending on length, ambient temperature and insulation factor to name a few.
A grounding conductor is a means for providing safety for users of electrical devices that may have experienced an internal failure that causes an electrical short to metallic surfaces. In theory, such a short to a GROUNDED surface would quickly result in overcurrent or ground-fault interruption of the circuit, resulting in an dead but safe circuit. NEVER "reset" a GFCI while holding the attached device or without discovering what caused it to trip. Were it not for a grounding conductor, the user could become the "grounding conductor" by accident, causing electrocution. Grounding conductors maybe bare (copper) wires or have green insulation, or green with a yellow stripe (also used for bonding) or other green markings (green screws, green clips, green wire nuts, etc). Grounded appliance plugs were not required in the NEC until the 1960s.
A grounding bar is most often located in the breaker panel. This is where all your grounding conductors are landed. If the panel is your primary service panel, neutrals and grounds can both be landed there. The NEC (US) requires that all service equipment be bonded together. This includes your meterbox. To most people bonding and grounding look alike but they serve different purposes. In most cases this bonding consists of a #6 AWG solid copper conductor connecting your service panel to your meterbox and also whatever you happen to be using as a grounding electrode, usually a water pipe and ground rod. Consult a competent electrician for what is required in your area. I was on a job once where the city inspector expected this bonding conductor to be run with the service conductors inside the same conduit, which is what I would expect. But the power company for the same job required it to be run outside the conduit which is acceptable practice. Both were right, but we had to do it one way for the inspection and another way before power was supplied.
Very often the ground wire in the fixture is ignored, or just connected to the box, if there isn't a conductor to connect to. This, however, is a code violation as any fixture with a ground wire is required to have it properly connected to an equipment grounding conductor back to the panel. This is for YOUR SAFETY. Technically you should rewire the circuit with the proper conductors. It is BAD PRACTICE to connect the ground wire to the neutral or white wire because this could create a hazard of its own.
A ground conductor is a wire that connects electrical devices to the ground terminal in an electrical system, providing a path for fault currents. A ground electrode conductor, on the other hand, is a wire that connects the ground electrode (such as a grounding rod) to the ground terminal, allowing for the dissipation of electrical charges into the earth.