When installing and Isolated circuit, the orange-insulated conductor is required to be connected to the nickel-plated screw of recepticals
No, it just has an additional conductor to separate the neutral from the ground, and has a third prong in the receptacle to receive the appliance grounding conductor through the cordset.
The neutral in a receptacle is the return conductor to complete the circuit back to the distribution panel. When a device is plugged into the receptacle this completes the circuit and allows the current to flow and the device to operate.
Actually, yes. The GFCI does not need any ground; it measures "leakage", i.e., an imbalance, regardless of whether there is "ground". The National Electrical Code permits installing a GFCI to replace a completely ungrounded receptacle. Others have said: No. The GFCI is designed to measure an unintended path to ground. Without a good ground reference this is not possible.
In normal home wiring the black and white supply the circuit voltage. The green conductor connects to the green screw. The black conductor connects to the brass coloured screw and the white conductor connects to the silver coloured screw. There are additional terminals on the receptacle that connect to the down stream side of the circuit. By making these connections on the GFI receptacle all downstream normal duplex receptacles are also protected.
It allows for a separate equipment grounding conductor
Single conductors can be terminated by stripping the insulation off the end of the conductor, then securing the exposed metal conductor to the termination point using the appropriate method, such as screw terminals, crimp connectors, or soldering. It's important to ensure a secure connection to prevent loose connections or short circuits.
Connect the white wire from the European oven to the white wire in the US receptacle. Connect the black wire from the European oven to the black wire in the US receptacle. Connect the green wire from the European oven to the bare wire in the US receptacle. The green wire serves as the ground wire since you don't have a separate ground wire in the US receptacle.
The black "hot" conductor goes to the brass coloured screw. The white coloured conductor goes to the silver coloured screw. The bare ground conductor goes to the ground green coloured screw
You'd need to branch the circuit before the switch. This can be immediately before the switch, in the box that holds the switch, but you can't get constant power from a switched circuit after its been switched.
You will need a receptacle that you can wire each outlet separately (not jumpered). You would then wire the switch in series on the line conductor with the outlet you want switchable. Wire the other outlet directly to the power source. You can jumper the neutral from one outlet to the other.
No, the neutral conductor will not be in that box. The white wire in the end of run will be the return "hot" leg back to the light fixture. When wired this white conductor should have had a black tape marker put on it to signify that it was not a neutral conductor. That same conductor should also have had a black marker placed on the end in the fixture's junction box.
Conductor