The lamp wire is hot because electrical current flowing through it encounters resistance, which causes the wire to heat up.
The wire on a lamp cord that is known as the hot wire is typically the black wire.
The wire that is hot on a lamp cord is typically the one that is black or red in color.
When checking for electrical connections, the wire that is hot is typically the black wire.
In North America the neutral has to be identified as such. On a lamp cord the ribbed insulation side is the identification of the neutral wire. The "hot" conductor of the lamp cord is the smooth insulation.No. Screw material is no safe indicator because they would be too easy to swap round.
The hot wire's cover is smooth and connected to what I call the "button" at the bottom of the socket. The neutral wire's cover has ridges and is connected to the screw shell of the socket.
The grooved wire is the neutral wire, which carries the current back to the power source. The smooth wire is the hot wire, which carries the current from the power source to the device, in this case, the lamp. It's important to connect them correctly to ensure the lamp functions properly and safely.
Yes, it is normal for lamp wire to become slightly warm during use due to the flow of electricity through the wire. However, if the wire becomes excessively hot or starts to emit a burning smell, it may indicate a problem and should be checked by a professional electrician.
To wire a lamp socket correctly, first turn off the power. Then, connect the neutral wire to the silver screw and the hot wire to the gold screw on the socket. Make sure the wires are securely attached and the socket is properly grounded. Finally, test the lamp to ensure it is working safely.
The best way to find the neutral wire on any lamp is to ring the wire out. Before there were polarized plugs and receptacles a lamp could be plugged in either way. All new lamps have polarized plugs where the neutral is connected to the shell of the lamp holder and the "hot" wire is connected to the center pin deep in the lamp socket. Back to your goose neck lamp, you will need a meter that reads resistance and use it as a continuity meter. With the lamp unplugged and the lamp's switch in the off position connect one lead of the meter to the shell of the lamp holder. Take the other lead and touch it to one of the plug cap blades. If the meter gives a reading it is that blade that is the neutral wire. If there is no reading then that blade is considered the "hot" wire. If you are changing the plug (cap) out for a new one connect the newly established neutral wire to the silver coloured screw and the newly established "hot" wire to the gold coloured screw. Now when ever and where ever the lamp is plugged into a voltage source the polarity will be correct and the lamp will be much safer to use.
The term plus or minus is usually a term designated to DC Sources. The terminology for AC systems in laymen terms is neutral and "hot". On a lamp socket, for safety reasons the lamp shell should be connected to the neutral wire and the "hot' wire connected to the bottom centre contact point. In North America this is done automatically by connecting the white wire the silver coloured terminal and the black coloured wire to the brass coloured terminal. If the lamp socket is on a table lamp and it is wired with lamp cable, the neutral is identified by the raised rib on one of the two wires.
If you are referring to lamp cord type wire where both wires are brown then yes, connect the wire with the groves to the white neutral and the smooth wire to the black hot wire.
You could have a short or it could just be that you are reading through a load. Take a lamp and check for continuity at the plug, with a bulb in the lamp you will get continuity, take the bulb out if you still have continuity then you have a short in the wire or the lamp. Same thing happens in the wiring of your house on a larger scale.