The hot wire's cover is smooth and connected to what I call the "button" at the bottom of the socket. The neutral wire's cover has ridges and is connected to the screw shell of the socket.
If you are referring to lamp cord type wire where both wires are brown then yes, connect the wire with the groves to the white neutral and the smooth wire to the black hot wire.
The only cord with a rib identifier is lamp cord. There are small extension cords made of this material but should only be used for very light duty such as extending table of floor lamps so that they can reach existing wall receptacles. This rib identifies the neutral conductor so that the lamp get wired with the correct polarity. The rib connects to the plug's neutral blade (silver screw). At the lamp end the rib wire connects to the lamp holder's shell. The shell is the part that the light bulb screws into.
The best way to find the neutral wire on any lamp is to ring the wire out. Before there were polarized plugs and receptacles a lamp could be plugged in either way. All new lamps have polarized plugs where the neutral is connected to the shell of the lamp holder and the "hot" wire is connected to the center pin deep in the lamp socket. Back to your goose neck lamp, you will need a meter that reads resistance and use it as a continuity meter. With the lamp unplugged and the lamp's switch in the off position connect one lead of the meter to the shell of the lamp holder. Take the other lead and touch it to one of the plug cap blades. If the meter gives a reading it is that blade that is the neutral wire. If there is no reading then that blade is considered the "hot" wire. If you are changing the plug (cap) out for a new one connect the newly established neutral wire to the silver coloured screw and the newly established "hot" wire to the gold coloured screw. Now when ever and where ever the lamp is plugged into a voltage source the polarity will be correct and the lamp will be much safer to use.
To wire a 2-circuit 3-terminal lamp socket, first ensure the power is turned off. Connect the live wire to the terminal labeled "L" (live), the neutral wire to the terminal labeled "N" (neutral), and the ground wire to the terminal marked with a ground symbol or "G". If there are two circuits, follow the manufacturer's instructions for connecting the second circuit, ensuring proper insulation and securing all connections before restoring power. Always prioritize safety and consult a professional if unsure.
Do not remove any electrical plug by grabbing the wire. This weakens the connection at the plug. ALWAYS grab the plug itself when removing it.
The wire on a lamp cord that is known as the hot wire is typically the black wire.
The wire that is hot on a lamp cord is typically the one that is black or red in color.
To wire a lamp properly, first make sure the power is off. Connect the lamp cord to the socket terminals, matching the wires to the correct screws. Secure the wires with the screws and reassemble the lamp. Test it to ensure it works before turning the power back on.
The cord is attached under the shade and runs outside the lamp along the back
To wire a lamp socket correctly, first turn off the power. Then, connect the neutral wire to the silver screw and the hot wire to the gold screw on the socket. Make sure the wires are securely attached and the socket is properly grounded. Finally, test the lamp to ensure it is working safely.
For a 125V lamp socket, it is recommended to use 18 or 16 gauge wire. This wire gauge ensures proper electrical conductivity and safety for the lamp's voltage requirements. Always consult the lamp's manufacturer or a qualified electrician for specific recommendations.
If you are asking about the electrical cord on a lamp, the black wire with the white stripe is the neutral conductor.
The type of wire you are looking for is called lamp cord. It comes in different colours usually to match the fixture. Fixtures hanging from chains use a clear insulation so as to blend in with the fixture chain colour. Remember that the smooth wire of the lamp cord connects to the hot wire and the ribbed wire on the lamp cord connects to the neutral wire in the ceiling junction box.
The light socket normally connects to the wire by means of two screws which when screwed in will press the wire down onto a copper contact plate. Strip about an inch, possibly two inches of insulation off the end of your new wire, connect it to the socket, thread it through the lamp (every lamp has its own particular structure, but there is always some kind of hollow space through which a wire can be pulled) and behold, you have rewired your lamp.
In North America the neutral has to be identified as such. On a lamp cord the ribbed insulation side is the identification of the neutral wire. The "hot" conductor of the lamp cord is the smooth insulation.No. Screw material is no safe indicator because they would be too easy to swap round.
These types of lamp sockets are known as pigtail sockets. Used in lighting fixtures they can not be repaired unless you have the means to re tighten the rivet that is used in the bottom of the lamp base. Any lighting store will have replacement parts for these types of fixtures. Molded pigtail lamp holders are used for temporary lighting in the construction trade. These lamp holders are positioned on brewery cord and can be placed at any needed position on the cord.
Are you saying that you plug in a lamp and another lamp on that extension cord goes dimmer? If so then the extension cord wire is of a smll guage size and causing a voltage drop from the outlet to the cord output.