100 Volts
No, a 120V light bulb should not be used in a 250V socket. The bulb is designed to operate at a lower voltage, and connecting it to a higher voltage source can lead to overheating, damage, and potentially cause the bulb to burn out or even create a fire hazard. Always use bulbs that match the voltage rating of the socket to ensure safety and proper functioning.
No, it is not safe or recommended to install a 120V light on a 277V circuit. The voltage difference could damage the light fixture and pose a fire hazard. It is best to use a light fixture rated for the appropriate voltage.
Yes. As long as the voltage is designed for the lamp and the socket and fixture can handle the heat (from the rated power in watts), you can. You will probably find that the socket or connector for this lamp is different than the one intended.
See discussion page for more.
Household is 120/240 volts at 60Hz. The average wall socket is 120v 60Hz.
To attach a 120V light fixture to a 277V system, you will need a step-down transformer with a 277V primary and 120V secondary. This will allow you to safely power the light fixture at the correct voltage. You do not need a ballast in this case, as ballasts are typically used with fluorescent lights and not for altering voltage levels.
My first suspicion is you have a loose or disconnected neutral. TURN THE BREAKER OFF WHEN CHECKING THE CONNECTION. To include all points, even the obvious, make sure you have changed the lamps to known working lamps from another fixture. How do you know it has 120 volts at the socket? If you tested it with a voltage tester or a multimeter, which wires were you connected to? In order to troubleshoot you need to make three measurements, at the BOXif wall or ceiling mounted or RECEPTACLE if plugged in with a cord, not the fixture socket the lamp screws into. Hot to ground (volts AC) Should be 120 volts nominal. This can vary from about 110-130v. Hot to neutral (volts AC) Should be 120 volts nominal. Neutral to Ground (volts AC) Should be 0 volts. These wires are electrically joined at your main panel. If you have 120v hot to neutral, your circuit is working properly. Any problem will lie in the fixture or the connections to the fixture. If you do not have 120v to neutral but you do have 120v hot to ground, your neutral is not connected. TURN THE BREAKER OFF and check the connection. If you do not have 120v to neutral or120v to ground, your hot is not connected. TURN THE BREAKER OFF and check the connection. If you have anything other than 0 volts neutral to ground, your fixture connection may be okay, but your neutral is not connected properly going back to the main panel. This is a dangerous situation, and it can result in fire over time. In this case have an electrician inspect the situation immediately!
No, a 1H75 ballast is designed for 120V input voltage. You would need a ballast specifically rated for 277V to operate fixtures at that voltage safely and effectively. It is important to match the input voltage of the ballast with the fixture’s voltage requirements to avoid damage or safety hazards.
You don't, at least, not legally.
There should be no voltage on the neutral wire to ground. This is a serious situation. Call a qualified electrician to check this out.
It is 120V/60Hz
The impedence of the ballast is system voltage dependent to allow required current to pass through the light fixture. If system voltage changes, the current passing through the light fixture changes, therefore to get designed output from the fixture, the ballast has to be changed.