Yes. Cleaning with it can be done by including one part vinegar. Conditoning the leather can be done by simply using the linseed oil.
The typical drying time for raw linseed oil is around 24 to 72 hours.
We use linseed oil because it soaks into the the bat and makes it moist and knocking in becomes much easier but make sure to use raw linseed oil and not boiled linseed oil. The bat does not soak boiled linseed oil. Raw linseed oil not only increases the life of the bat but also makes the performance of the bat better.
Boiled Linseed Oil has drying agents formulated into the product after "cooking" to hasten drying. Raw Linseed Oil takes 10-14 days to dry but has a thicker more durable finish than Boiled Linseed Oil does because it has been thinned with other chemicals and products.
lampblack, algae, water, linseed oil.
It MUST be raw linseed oil if you are using the oil cloth in contact with any food. "Boiled" linseed oil has many toxic solvents, dryers, and other additives. You might consider purchasing the linseed oil (flax seed oil) from a health food store rather than a hardware store.
It all depends, I suppose, on your usage. The 100% safest way is just to buy it at the store... never try to make it yourself by boiling raw linseed oil as you'll no doubt wind up with a pretty good fire on your hands. Today's "Boiled Linseed oil" is mixed with chemical agenyts that cause it to dry more quickly than raw linseed oil. Heating raw linseed oil (under laboratory conditions!) causes it to polymerize and oxidize, making it thicker and shortening its drying time. Again, kids, don't try this at home!
Boiled linseed oil typically offers better protection for metal surfaces compared to raw linseed oil. The boiling process allows the linseed oil to cure faster and form a harder finish, which helps to provide increased durability and protection against rust and corrosion on metal surfaces.
It is also used to start spontanious combustion fires. The raw oil is worse than the boiled linseed oil. DO NOT leave rags "balled up", they can ignite in less than a day. Be Careful!
Linseed oil is a traditional PRESERVATIVE and has been used for centuries for concrete, masonry, wood and metal. You would mix it 1 parts linseed to 2 parts turpentine (not mineral spirits), but the mixture would vary. You want to used boiled linseed oil, not raw linseed oil (check the label). Note this is not a SEALANT but a preservative- if you are doing your garage or basement floor, try something else! Also be careful- the tools and rags you use can spontaneously combust (i.e.: burst into flame, no kidding!) when being used with linseed oil. Check the Wikipedia page for details under "Linseed Oil"
Since linseed oil is a naturally occurring product it will not have a specific molecular weight. I will depend on the composition of fatty acids which can be quite difference from crop to crop or even within the same "jar" of linseed oil. Also raw linseed oil is a mixture of triglycerides with some free fatty acids. In other words linseed oil is not a pure chemical but a mixture of many compounds. When using linseed oil in chemical reactions such as making alkyds a molecular weight of about 890 to 900 will usually work well.
It's an old recipe for putty, especially glazing putty.
It all depends, I suppose, on your usage. The 100% safest way is just to buy it at the store... never try to make it yourself by boiling raw linseed oil as you'll no doubt wind up with a pretty good fire on your hands. Today's "Boiled Linseed oil" is mixed with chemical agenyts that cause it to dry more quickly than raw linseed oil. Heating raw linseed oil (under laboratory conditions!) causes it to polymerize and oxidize, making it thicker and shortening its drying time. Again, kids, don't try this at home!