In the United States the common house current is commonly referred to as either 115 volts or 120 volts. The voltage varies due to the distance from the transformer on the pole because electricity loses voltage the further it has to travel.
This is hard to say as it is up to the manufacture as to whether it is compatible. on the specification plate it should state the operating frequencies. if i had to say yes or no and the appliance is the latest model i would say yes it is compatible as these days manufactures allow for those tolerances.
To rewire a 220V lamp for 120V, you will need to replace the existing 220V bulb with a 120V bulb that is compatible with the lamp's socket. Next, you will need to install a 120V compatible power cord that matches the voltage requirements of the lamp. It's important to refer to the lamp's manual or consult with a professional electrician to ensure the rewiring is done correctly and safely.
Sure, you can technically plug a 115V appliance into a 120V outlet without blowing up your house, but don't expect it to perform at its best. It's like trying to fit a square peg into a round hole - it might work, but it's not ideal. So go ahead, give it a shot, but don't be surprised if your appliance isn't too thrilled about the situation.
Further explain "shuts off frequently". Is the breaker tripping? Is it the normal on/off cycling an AC does? Do you have to do something special to make it come back on? FYI: 115, 110, 120...they're all the same (so to speak). 117 Volts is the target voltage.
Yes.
In the U.S. you should be using 110-115V.
no
Does this air conditioner require 220 volts?
Yes you can. Please be aware you have the situation of pulling more amps, in this case 5 amps, over the timmer before the fuse blows. which may damage the timer To avopid this appliances plugged into the timer should be rated at 15 amps or less. Thgere are different type circuit breaker immediate and time delay for where an appliance such as motors exceed the limit to start then drop down when running?
The combination will have a resistance of 100ohms, and will drew 144watts. But, the wall outlet will usually be fluctuating from 115V to 135V, 120V is't only a "reference". I suggest you measure it a voltmeter before doing any calculation. Then, you can use this formula (ohms law) to find the correct answer : R = V/I In our case : R(ohms) = 120V / 1.2A R = 100ohms
minimum 230volts In formal electrical jargon, a "device" does not "use" electricity. A device is something like a switch or receptacle(outlet) that helps control or carry electricity but does not consume electricity. In the United States, voltage for home lighting and general purpose receptacles is 120v. Voltage for electrical appliances such as ranges, clothes dryers, or furnaces is 240v. Voltages such as 110v, 115v, or 125v are versions of 120v in electrical jargon and voltages such as 220v or 230v are versions of 240v.
The two voltages are a nominal figure. The lower range of voltages can go from 110 to 120 volts. All equipment rated within the ranges from 110 to 120 volts are all compatible with each other. This ten volt range is brought about by the power company, as they have a responsibility to keep voltages within a certain 10% range. The load will only notice a difference of 1% on the load current. e.g. Wattage load of 2400. Amps = watts/volts. 2400/110V = 21 amps. 2400/120V = 20 amps. On a constant resistance as the voltage goes lower, the current goes higher and vice versa as the voltage goes higher, the current goes lower.