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They don't any more. This was a local, south-eastern tradition (from the region of Marseilles and around) first commented at the end of the 1600s, of having an abundance of desserts, mostly fruits and dried fruits. The number 13 comes up only in the 1900s, probably from an association of a earlier tradition to put 13 bread rolls on the Christmas table, a larger one for Christ, the others figuring the apostles.

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13y ago

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