I will keep the ans. simple. Yes you can. It will cause no problem.
No. You need to have a 220 outlet. Your 110 has only 1/2 the voltage you need. Also, the question you ask is not really feasible. The wattage required by the heating elements is more than what a 110V line could handle. (110V outlets and 120V outlets are practically the same for this discussion. I will refer to them as 120V. Same with 220V/240V outlets.) By 110V outlet I'm assuming you mean a standard US 120V 15A outlet. This outlet can provide a maximum of 15A at 120V. This means the outlet can provide 1,800W of power. ( Volts x Amps = Watts ) This is the maximum amount of power this outlet can provide, no more. Also, this is assuming nothing else is drawing power off the circuit this outlet is on. If you try to pull 1800W from an outlet and plug anything else into this circuit, the breaker will blow. Your dryer is designed to run off a 30A 240V circuit. Let's say, for argument, it draws 24A at 240V. This means your appliance requires 5,760W of power to run correctly. This is 3.2 times the absolute maximum amount of power your 120V outlet can provide. There is no way you can run this appliance off this outlet. You have a larger problem here than the voltage difference. NO WAY One person has said "homes are not wired 110v, they are wired 220v. if you put a 2 pole breaker (or 2 pole fuse, if it's a fuse panel) in the panel, you will get 220v." Although it may be partly true, it does not answer the question. The related questions explore the amount of power needed for a dryer, which cannot usually be supplied through the wiring for a 110 V outlet. So, in general, the answer is no. You will need to run a different set of wires from the breaker/fuse panel to the location where the dryer is to be installed, and use a 2-pole breaker and the proper dryer outlet. You could, in theory, but the transformer would weigh more than the dryer and cost at least 4 times as much as a new dryer. The circuit would also have to be upgraded to at least a 60 amp 120volt outlet. Very impractical.
120v, 240v and 347v for lighting
There was a 440 Volt Rating. Voltage ratings of the past gave way to higher levels to allow larger power dissipation from the same wire size. In home use 110 Volts gave way to 115 Volts and that gave way to the 120 Volts of current use. Higher voltages also increased in turn as 110V associated with 220 and 440 Volts, became 115V associated with 230 and 460 Volts, and today we have 120V associated with 240 and 480 Volts.
Household is 120/240 volts at 60Hz. The average wall socket is 120v 60Hz.
Ohms law states that E=I * R, or voltage equals current times resistance. Therefore current equals voltage divided by resistance. 120v divided by 16 ohms equals 7.5 amps.
Should be ok provided you do not draw too much current.
no because the tv can only pick up siginals at 60Hz if the signal is 50 Hz it won't pic it up.
yes. but DO NOT do it the other way.
110V and 120V are essentially the same thing--don't worry about that. 50 Hz vs. 60 Hz is more important, for some devices. North America is 60 Hz; much of the rest of the world is 50 Hz.
The US does not use 120 volts at 50 Hertz.
Your 8 amp hammer drill has more power. If your hammer drill is 120V, you would multiply amps by volts to get the total watts: W= 8 x 120 = 960W.
yes. on most marine and offshore rigs you can connect 22volt rated system L and neutral to 2 hot connection. 110v on L and 110v on neutral.
No. If the heaters are designed for 220V they cannot fun off of 110V. Also running a 1500W heater off of 110V would require a dedicated circuit. So four 1500W heaters would require 4 dedicated 110V circuits.
Try to be a little more specific and I'll try and help. Are you wanting to add a plug on it, or hard wire it. And what is the fans location or type of fan I guess.
Yes, just not as strong. Make sure Europe runs on 60hz as well. Max
Is the 220V plug 220V only or 110/220V? (The former will have 3 prongs and the former will have 4) If your case is the latter just use the ground, neutral, and one of the hots. This will give you 120V single phase. If the case is the former you can't get 110V off that plug.
For residential service 110V, 115V, 117V, 120V, and 125V are all functionally the same. Electric companies have been slowly increasing the line voltage over the last 100 years to cope with increased loads. That is where these different voltages come from. The tolerance is generally +/-10%. That's +/- 11.5 volts in this case. So, a 115VAC appliance will run between 103.5 and 126.5VAC. The short answer is yes. 110V appliances can work with up to 130V without being burnt, additionally, 220V appliances can work with up to 240V without being burnt.