Yes, the larger slot is a polarity slot that is supposed to connect the plug in device to the neutral wire. If the device is a lamp it would make the shell of the lamp the neutral wire connection and the center pin the "hot". If the two wire plug has a moulded plug on it, look for a tracer on the devices power cord. It will be a raised rib or a white tracer on the conductor that is the neutral. Position the two blade plug into the receptacle with the identified conductor into the larger slot, this will give you the proper polarity configuration that the manufacturer recommends. New plugs (caps) today all have a ground pin connected to them and can only connect to the receptacle in one position.
For most standard two-prong plugs, there is no difference in which prong goes into which outlet. The prongs are typically the same size and shape, so it does not matter which way you plug it in. However, if the plug is polarized (one prong is wider than the other), make sure to plug it in the correct way according to the outlet.
My question is WHY did you replace a four prong dryer plug with a three prong! 220 volt Electric dryers require two hot legs, a neutral and a system ground wire. Sounds as though you shunted one of the hots or the neutral. You need to install a four prong plug of the same configuration and wire it exactly as the original.
The wider slot is typically the neutral side on a two-prong plug. However, it's essential to note that the prongs can vary based on the country's electrical standards, so it's always best to consult with a qualified electrician for guidance.
If you are viweing this because you want to change the newer 4-prong plug/outlet to fit an older 3 prong outlet/plug don't do it! The newer plug is safer and the 3 prong plug no longer meets code. See the discussions in other threads. all you need to do is hook the two hot leads on the outer terminals, then the nueatral, white wire on the center terminal and the green ground wire to the ground screw. Be sure to remove the bonding jumper that ties the neutral to the chassis. This is no longer needed as now you have a ground line from the outlet. There should be 3 insulated lugs in the dryer, two hots and a neutral. Connect the red and black wires in your new cord to the hot lugs (red & black are interchangeable), and the white neutral to the neutral lug. Neutral is the center wire on your older 3-wire cord, for reference. Connect the green ground wire directly to the chassis of the sryer using a convienent screw. Use the four prong cord if you can. It is safer because it has the extra ground wire which older cords did not.
=== ====== === Old practice [accepted by National Electrical Code requirements] allowed the frame [chassis] of dryer to be bonded to the neutral conductor by a link to provide ground. New NEC requirements call for separation of neutral and ground paths. In a new house, or if you install a new cable to feed the dryer, you would be required to run a wire with an insulated neutral and a ground wire [10/3 with ground - 4 wires]There are 2 possibilities:One is that there is actually a 4-wire cable feeding that outlet, in which case you CAN change the dryer outlet to a 4 wire type - you just have to put the right wires on the right terminals and make sure the ground is connected in the panel. [Even though we only used 3 wire outlets, most electricians I know had run 10/3 with a ground for dryers in case the unit got hard-wired, which used to be allowed.]The second possible answer is that you are allowed [unless your township or city doesn't allow it - always check with them first] to establish a ground-to-neutral link inside the dryer unit for the chassis ground and replace the 4-wire plug with a 3-wire plug. [See NEC Article 250.140] Answer Some dryers also have devices (such as lights and the timer) that run on 120 volts. These need a neutral that is separate from the protective ground.I got a new dryer yesterday... the plug on it has four prongs and my old one has three prongs. So can the old three prong plug be taken off my old dryer and be put onto the new dryer? I notice my old three prong plug is not color coded like the one on the new one. Also when I took the old dryer off and unplugged it, a green ground wire was still fixed to it (the old dryer), so how would I ground the new dryer being that it only has three prongs? Thanks in advance. === ===
No you can not you will need to replace the plug with a 4 prong the same as the style of your oven and change your breaker to the correct Amp for your style of 4 prong plug
For most standard two-prong plugs, there is no difference in which prong goes into which outlet. The prongs are typically the same size and shape, so it does not matter which way you plug it in. However, if the plug is polarized (one prong is wider than the other), make sure to plug it in the correct way according to the outlet.
No, the power plug in Japan is different from the one in the US. Japan uses a two-prong plug with a voltage of 100 volts, while the US uses a three-prong plug with a voltage of 120 volts.
No, the power plug used in Japan is different from the one used in the United States. Japan typically uses a two-prong plug with a voltage of 100 volts, while the United States uses a three-prong plug with a voltage of 120 volts.
easy. All you do is find something that is the same width as the tip of the prong. It needs to have a grippy handle and preferably sharp, yet not too sharp as you could damage to prong/socket. Make Sure The Power Is Off!!!
My question is WHY did you replace a four prong dryer plug with a three prong! 220 volt Electric dryers require two hot legs, a neutral and a system ground wire. Sounds as though you shunted one of the hots or the neutral. You need to install a four prong plug of the same configuration and wire it exactly as the original.
POSITIVE and NEGATIVE are Direct Current (DC) terms In Alternating Current (AC) terms it is: HOT-LEG (brass colored screw) and NEUTRAL (silver colored screw) On polarized plugs 120volts, the larger prong is the neutral
This is very strange indeed. All modern houses in USA would have 3-prong outlets. I can't see how it could pass an electrical inspection. Check with the local agency who does inspections. Check your electric panel and look for an inspection sticker. I have encountered receptacles that are very hard to use because one or more of the pin slots (I don't know what else to call them) are way too tight. There is no easy remedy for this problem except to press hard to get the plug into the receptacle or replace the receptacle with one of a better quality. There are also child protective receptacles that require that two or three of the pins be pressed in at the same time or none of them will go. If the plug is just slightly off true it won't go.
Wow I don't know but could you add me as a beneficiary on your fire policy?
A NEMA 5-20 plug is a standard 3 prong plug. It wires the same as a NEMA 5-15 plug (Ground wire to the "D" contact, Hot to vertical terminal and neutral to the horizontal terminal (with the Ground terminal either at the top or bottom)).A 5-20P plug has the neutral blade rotated 90°. The 5-20R receptacle usually has a T-shaped neutral hole, to accept both 5-15P and 5-20P plugs.
The wider slot is typically the neutral side on a two-prong plug. However, it's essential to note that the prongs can vary based on the country's electrical standards, so it's always best to consult with a qualified electrician for guidance.
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