No, it will not overheat unless too much current is being drawn through the cable, but this can happen even with a cord that is not coiled. Example: The lightweight zip cords used for Christmas tree lights and other light-use appliances such as table lamps, are made to carry very little current, perhaps only a couple of amps. If somebody uses such a cord to power a circular saw, grinder or some other power tool which uses 12 amps or more, that cord will overheat and start to melt the insulation. Not only that, but the tool itself will be damaged because its motor will overheat.
A single conductor (one wire only) coiled up and with current passing through it may heat up. This, after all, is how older electric heaters worked. A single, high resistance wire was wound around a ceramic rod and current passed through it, causing it to glow red.
A power cord has two conductors (three if a grounding conductor [green] is included). Without a neutral (white or gray) the cord would be useless. This neutral wire negates the effect of heating that would otherwise be generated by the single conductor.
As a former electrical contractor, I had to attend electrical code classes every year to maintain my license. The electrical inspector who taught the class, used to take photos of code violations (some done by homeowners with little or no knowledge of electrical installations). In one of the photos a single conductor was passed through a cable connector and into a breaker panel. He said that when a current is passed through the conductor, the steel case of the breaker panel will heat up. A neutral, run with the live conductor, would prevent such heating. Obviously, the "electrician" who installed the single conductor must have already had a neutral at the device to which he was running the new conductor. Perhaps there was an open circuit in the live conductor, but whatever the reason, a single conductor must never be run by itself in any electrical installation because of the heating factor.
In a recent fire investigation, the fire marshal concluded that a coiled up power cord was the cause of the fire. That could be possible if the insulation was deteriorated and there was a short circuit between the live and neutral conductors. It will not happen in a cord in good condition. But such a short could cause a fire even if the cord was not coiled up.
Yes, as long as the extension cord is rated for the load. Most microwave ovens use 1000W or more, some less. A standard two wire extension cord would be unsafe. There are, however, extension cords which have the proper gauge of wire and the necessary 3-prong outlets which a microwave would need to operate safely.
I think that it would reach at most 59 and a half feet
An electric heater is one of the high-power appliances in a house, commonly taking 1.5 to 3 kilowatts of power. The current is high, and therefore there is a drop in the voltage applied to the heater equal to the current multiplied by the resistance of the cord. There is probably little power wasted, because any heat from the cord goes to heat up the same room. But a voltage drop causes the heater to draw less current because its resistance is constant, and therefore less total power is provided to heat the room. If the heater is thermostatically controlled so that it is not working all the time, the difference is small because any reduction in the heater's power would cause the thermostat to keep it going for longer, to compensate.
You should know the maximum current drawn from the distribution box (in amps) and that must be less than the current that the extension cord is able to supply.
It is not recommended to use a power cord that provides less current (measured in mA) than what the device requires. Doing so may result in the device not receiving enough power to operate properly, potentially causing damage to the device or the power cord. It is best to use a power cord that meets or exceeds the current requirements of the device.
The recommended length for a dryer plug extension cord is 25 feet or less, and it should be a heavy-duty, 10-gauge wire extension cord to handle the high power requirements of a dryer.
The recommended length for a wall extension cord to safely power multiple devices in a room is typically 25 feet or less. Using a longer extension cord can increase the risk of overheating and electrical hazards.
Yes, as long as the extension cord is rated for the load. Most microwave ovens use 1000W or more, some less. A standard two wire extension cord would be unsafe. There are, however, extension cords which have the proper gauge of wire and the necessary 3-prong outlets which a microwave would need to operate safely.
So that it takes up less space, and is self recoiling.
An appliance which does not use much current will perform satisfactorily with a long extension cord. Any device which uses a lot of power (space heater, large power tools) will not perform well on a long ext cord unless the cord is large enough and rated to carry the required power.
The recommended length for an extension cord to safely use with a hot tub is 25 feet or less, and it should be a heavy-duty, outdoor-rated cord with a grounded plug.
Resistance in the length of wire that makes up the extension cord causes voltage to drop. But it needn't be a problem with the right extension cord. For an electric drill, up to a 25 foot cord of 16 gauge wire will cause a voltage drop so small as to be negligible. For 50 feet, switch to a 14 gauge cord. For heavier power tools (circular saw in particular) you should use a 14 gauge extension from the get-go.
There are several variables:First and most important, what will be the current draw? If the total number of amps exceeds the rating of either the power strip or the extension cord you're creating a fire hazard.Second, the wire gauge and length of the extension are important. You will loose voltage over distance and that is a function of the current draw, wire type and wire gauge. If you're trying to run 20 amps, don't use any less than a 12 gauge extension cord up to a maximum of 100 Ft. 15 amps, minimum 14 gauge.
If you are talking about the gauge of the wires, then no. Larger guage wires( numerically lower) will pass current required for the appliance with lower losses, so it is better in that reguard Less resistance= less waste( in the form of heat). If you are talking about LENGTH, then yes. The longer the cord, the more losses that occur. Voltage lowers, so current goes up. If the extension cord can't pass the required current, then voltage remains depressed, and you end up with an appliance and extension cord that are running hotter, and less efficient. Worst case; fire.
I think that it would reach at most 59 and a half feet
An electric heater is one of the high-power appliances in a house, commonly taking 1.5 to 3 kilowatts of power. The current is high, and therefore there is a drop in the voltage applied to the heater equal to the current multiplied by the resistance of the cord. There is probably little power wasted, because any heat from the cord goes to heat up the same room. But a voltage drop causes the heater to draw less current because its resistance is constant, and therefore less total power is provided to heat the room. If the heater is thermostatically controlled so that it is not working all the time, the difference is small because any reduction in the heater's power would cause the thermostat to keep it going for longer, to compensate.
You should know the maximum current drawn from the distribution box (in amps) and that must be less than the current that the extension cord is able to supply.