If by meaning wire as a circuit, when turning on the circuit the fuse will blow the circuit open, or if the protection is a breaker, the breaker will trip. This is all on the conjecture that there is a return path for the current to flow. This is the main reason for ground wires on all equipment, to provide a return path for the current to flow back to the source.
a shorted out outlet can cause a backfeed on the white wire, an open circuit on the white wire with and electrical appliance plugged in to an outlet can cause the same type of backfeed
If the wire shorted out, it's possible that other components in the range could have been damaged as well, such as fuses, circuit boards, or heating elements. It's important to have a professional inspect the range to determine the extent of the damage and make the necessary repairs. Using the range without addressing the problem could be a safety hazard.
To determine if a wire is grounding out, use a multimeter set to test for continuity or a short circuit. Place one probe on the wire you suspect is grounding out and the other on a known ground point. If the multimeter beeps or shows a reading of zero ohms, the wire is grounding out.
Nothing will happen if the neutral and ground wire is shorted. The electrical code makes it mandatory that the neutral and ground are brought together at a common point within the distribution panel. On a 120/240 volt distribution system the ground wire is terminated at the point where the service neutral terminated in the distribution panel. It is usually a double lug the neutral wire connecting into one hole and the ground wire connecting into the other hole. Through this lug assembly there is a machine screw that is inserted through the lug assembly and it screws into the metallic enclosure of the distribution panel. This action bonds the metal enclosure, neutral wire and ground wire bringing the point to a common potential of zero.
The voltage (AC RMS) between the "hot" wire and the "neutral" wire is 110 VAC (volts alternating current). But it should be noted that the "110" volts supplied to homes can range from 95 to 130 volts, with the present standard now being 120 VAC. In addition, if the circuits are wired in accordance to most local codes, the "neutral' wire is connected to the "ground" wire in the distribution (fuse or circuit breaker panel or box), so the 110 volts will also appear between the "hot" wire (black color coded wire) ,and the ground wire (bare wire, within an insulating jacket carrying the insulated "hot" and "neutral" wires). Note, however, that the "ground" wire is not designed nor intended to carry the "return" current from the "hot" wire, but only as a safety "ground" for currents due to shorted or improperly wired devices connected to the circuit.
it sounds like a wire is not connected or is shorted.
Bad starter, shorted wire
The fuel level sensor is shorted or a wire is shorted.
A blown fuse indicates a shorted circuit somewhere in the system. Could be a shorted power wire to ground, or a shorted componet in the system.
If the tach wire shorted or melted.
if tac. wire is broken or shorted
It's an overload. It could be a shorted wire, worn out brakes or just misadjusted brakes.
There is an overcurrent situation in the circuit, could be a wire shorted to ground.
shorted a wire? knocked a wire loose?
old lights, blowen fuse, shorted wire?
Something is shorted to ground on that circuit
a shorted out outlet can cause a backfeed on the white wire, an open circuit on the white wire with and electrical appliance plugged in to an outlet can cause the same type of backfeed