Your 110 volt washer receptacle sounds like it is not a dedicated circuit directly fed from the distribution panel as it should be. It sounds like someone has tapped off of one side of the dryer receptacle hot and neutral terminals and run them to the receptacle for the washer. If true, this would have been done in the back side of the dryer receptacles which is located in the wall. You best get it checked out because it is likely the wire feeding the washer receptacle is a #14 rated at 15 amps and is undersized for a 30 amp breaker. A #10 wire has the capacity to be connected to a 30 amp breaker which you should find the dryer's connection to be.
The USA Asko combo series runs on 110V, which is unusual for a clothes dryer. A USA dryer usually runs on 220V and has its own dedicated circuit breaker, but the Asko can run on a standard household outlet which probably shares a breaker with other outlets in the house. A clothes dryer takes a lot of current. According to the specs on most Asko combos I looked at online, your unit probably uses close to the maximum current your breaker can handle. If you are using other electrical devices at the same time, you will blow the circuit. It may even be the use of overhead lighting if it shares the same breaker. One more thing on Asko: According to many of the online reviews, the 110V combos have a tendancy to have overheating problems in the wiring when using both washer and dryer simultaneously. I would suspect that this is due to not cleaning the lint screens, so be diligent. A dirty lint screen causes the dryer to work extra hard and draw more current.
Typically a washing machine and gas dryer don't use a motor larger than 3/4 hp, and other than the timer, they don't typically have much of an additional current draw. Most 3/4 hp motors pull about 6.5 amps, putting the total current load of both devices at 13 amps. You shouldn't have trouble putting them both on a single 20 amp circuit, provided that there are no other devices on the same breaker, AND provided that the washer and dryer do not draw much more than estimated. Understand that all manufacturers have their own idea of what the perfect washer and dryer should be like, so you may need to verify the current draw of each device before making assumptions. And understand that the current load on a breaker should not exceed 80% of it's rated capacity, meaning that the total current draw of the two devices shouldn't exceed 16 amps.
This may happen if the washer machine and the light are connected to the same electrical circuit. When the washer machine turns on, it may cause a power surge that triggers a temporary voltage drop in the circuit, which can cause the lights to dim or flicker momentarily.
Yes you can use a 60 amp breaker to feed a 100 amp sub panel. The wire from the 60 amp breaker must be #6 or larger. You will not be able to draw the maximum 100 amps from the panel you will be limited to 60 amps.
You can find the wiper and washer circuit breaker at most large retail stores. You can also find the circuit breaker at many local hardware stores.
The washer breaker may keep tripping due to an overload of electrical current, a short circuit, or a faulty breaker. It is important to have a professional electrician inspect and repair the issue to prevent potential hazards.
Your 110 volt washer receptacle sounds like it is not a dedicated circuit directly fed from the distribution panel as it should be. It sounds like someone has tapped off of one side of the dryer receptacle hot and neutral terminals and run them to the receptacle for the washer. If true, this would have been done in the back side of the dryer receptacles which is located in the wall. You best get it checked out because it is likely the wire feeding the washer receptacle is a #14 rated at 15 amps and is undersized for a 30 amp breaker. A #10 wire has the capacity to be connected to a 30 amp breaker which you should find the dryer's connection to be.
Your washer may be tripping the breaker due to an electrical overload caused by a faulty component, such as a motor or heating element. It could also be due to a short circuit in the wiring or a problem with the breaker itself. It is recommended to have a professional electrician inspect and repair the issue to ensure safety and proper functioning of the washer.
If your washer stops working suddenly, first check if it is plugged in and the circuit breaker is not tripped. If those are fine, try resetting the washer by unplugging it for a few minutes and then plugging it back in. If it still doesn't work, contact a professional repair service for further assistance.
I'm pretty sure the washer uses the same fuse circuit as the wipers. Their fuse is in the glovebox power center behind a hinged cover.
The appropriate breaker size for a washer is typically 15-20 amps.
There is a fuse for the windshield washer on the 1995 Geo Prizm. The fuse is located in the fuse box to the left of the steering wheel and under the dashboard.
Not a good idea in general. There is a large chance that you will trip what I expect is a 20 A breaker controlling the circuit. It may seem to work under some circumstances, but if the refrigerator compressor kicks in while the washer motor is demanding a surge current on motor start-up the breaker will likely trip.
Could be anything at fault. Unplug the compressor and try using your washer. If it works, then you have a fault with your compressor. If it still doesn't work, do what should have been done in the first place: call an electrician.
curcuit breakers have a set limit to the amount of amps they can allow before popping. Many household breakers are either 15 amp, or 30 amp. A hairdryer is a high draw item, 9 -13 amps. If the plug you are using is on a 15 amp breaker, and that feed wire is doing more than one function, adding the hairdryer could add enough draw to overload the curcuit.
The washer circuit for a 2004 Optima is on the same circuit as the wiper......a 20 amp fuse inside the passenger compartment.