The gas in the fluorescent tube has a high resistance when not lit, so it takes a high voltage to start it glowing. The "starter" stores energy and releases it all at once, causing a high voltage. Once the tube is glowing its resistance is lower, so it can continue to run without the starter. In fact the mains voltage is much higher than the tube requires to run once the gas inside it has been "lit" by the starter. A special thing called a "ballast" is included in the lamp fitting to reduce the mains voltage to one that is sufficient for the lamp to run continuously without overheating. If there was no ballast in the circuit supplying the lamp, the tube could get hot enough to explode!
No, a single pole switch cannot replace a starter in a fluorescent lamp. The starter is required to initiate the flow of current through the tube, which a switch alone cannot accomplish. The switch is used for turning the lamp on and off once the starter has activated the lamp.
Yes, fluorescent lamps may be powered by DC but they need a DC lamp controller instead of an AC ballast and starter. The DC lamp controller is more complex. I have a 12V lantern with fluorescent lamp tubes.
The choke is used to limit the current flowing through the fluorescent lamp during start-up, allowing the lamp to warm up gradually. The starter is responsible for providing the initial high-voltage kick needed to start the lamp by ionizing the gas inside the tube. Together, the choke and starter work to regulate the flow of electricity and provide the necessary conditions for the fluorescent lamp to operate efficiently.
No, incandescent lamp dimmers are not compatible with fluorescent lamps. Fluorescent lamps require special dimming ballasts to control their light output. Attempting to use an incandescent lamp dimmer with a fluorescent lamp can cause damage to the lamp and dimmer.
Typically, if the ballast on a fluorescent light blows, the lamp will not work. The ballast regulates the electrical current to the lamp, so if it is not functioning properly, the lamp will not receive the correct power to light up.
No, a single pole switch cannot replace a starter in a fluorescent lamp. The starter is required to initiate the flow of current through the tube, which a switch alone cannot accomplish. The switch is used for turning the lamp on and off once the starter has activated the lamp.
Yes, fluorescent lamps may be powered by DC but they need a DC lamp controller instead of an AC ballast and starter. The DC lamp controller is more complex. I have a 12V lantern with fluorescent lamp tubes.
Yes, fluorescent lamps may be powered by DC but they need a DC lamp controller instead of an AC ballast and starter. The DC lamp controller is more complex. I have a 12V lantern with fluorescent lamp tubes.
A capacitor is placed across the supply of a fluorescent lamp circuit to correct the power factor
The choke is used to limit the current flowing through the fluorescent lamp during start-up, allowing the lamp to warm up gradually. The starter is responsible for providing the initial high-voltage kick needed to start the lamp by ionizing the gas inside the tube. Together, the choke and starter work to regulate the flow of electricity and provide the necessary conditions for the fluorescent lamp to operate efficiently.
A capacitor in a fluorescent lamp helps to provide a stable voltage to the lamp's ballast, ensuring proper operation of the lamp. It also helps to improve the power factor of the lamp, making it more energy efficient.
Yes, lamp is to fluorescent
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When line voltage is applied across the starter, it closes a circuit, connecting the filaments at the ends of the bulb in series so they heat up. Once the Mercury in the lamp is vaporized, the starter breaks the filament circuit, and the ballast provides a voltage pulse to start the current flow down the length of the tube, lighting it. While the bulb is lighted, the voltage across the starter is low and it does not energize the filaments. When you see a fluorescent lamp flashing, the bulb is worn out and the starter keeps vainly trying to start it. Eventually the starter will wear out and will need to be replaced also. Newer fluorescent fixtures have lamps and ballasts that do not require a starter.
When line voltage is applied across the starter, it closes a circuit, connecting the filaments at the ends of the bulb in series so they heat up. Once the mercury in the lamp is vaporized, the starter breaks the filament circuit, and the ballast provides a voltage pulse to start the current flow down the length of the tube, lighting it. While the bulb is lighted, the voltage across the starter is low and it does not energize the filaments. When you see a fluorescent lamp flashing, the bulb is worn out and the starter keeps vainly trying to start it. Eventually the starter will wear out and will need to be replaced also. Newer fluorescent fixtures have lamps and ballasts that do not require a starter.
Once started the fluorescent tube no longer needs the starter. In fact starters are designed to electrically "remove" themselves from the circuit when the fluorescent tube is conducting.
The starter will send a delayed high voltage electricity to the gas within the fluorescent bulb that cause the gas to be ionized and conduct electricity.