Operating a breaker on a continuous current, close to the breaker's tripping point can cause this condition. Because the breaker is a thermal device the heat builds up over a time period. Check the breakers on either side of the faulting breaker. If these breakers are also warm from use they take away the heat sink effect and do not let the faulting breaker cool down. Check the current of the load to see how close you are operating to the breakers trip point. Over time the trip setting of the breaker can become lower to a point where it will not reset. Changing the breaker out should rectify this non resetting condition.
The operating handle will be found in mid throw. On smaller type electrical breakers there is a small trip indicator window and a red flag will be visible when the breaker has tripped. On larger physical size breakers you will definitely see that the handle is not in the off or on position. To reset any size breaker move the handle to the full off position. You might hear a click but you will definitely feel the internal mechanism re-latch to the off position. This has reset the breaker, move the handle to the on position and normal electrical power will have been restored. If you get an instantaneous trip after a reset do not try and reset the breaker again. Find the cause of the short circuit and get it repaired. Constant and repetitive resetting will destroy the breaker and increase the temperature of the short circuit. If the short circuit is in a highly combustive area this is not good. Find the problem and get it repaired.
Circuit breakers are more convenient as they can be reset after tripping, whereas fuses need to be replaced. Circuit breakers also provide better protection against electrical overloads and short circuits. They are considered safer and more reliable than fuses for modern electrical systems.
Your 110 volt washer receptacle sounds like it is not a dedicated circuit directly fed from the distribution panel as it should be. It sounds like someone has tapped off of one side of the dryer receptacle hot and neutral terminals and run them to the receptacle for the washer. If true, this would have been done in the back side of the dryer receptacles which is located in the wall. You best get it checked out because it is likely the wire feeding the washer receptacle is a #14 rated at 15 amps and is undersized for a 30 amp breaker. A #10 wire has the capacity to be connected to a 30 amp breaker which you should find the dryer's connection to be.
No. In North America a double pole breaker is used to obtain a voltage of 240 volts from the distribution panel. What ever the amperage rating stamped on the handle of the breaker is, that is the amperage that the breaker will trip at.
No, using 10-2 wire for a 60A circuit is not up to code. For a 60A circuit, you need to use at least 6 AWG copper or 4 AWG aluminum wire. Also, the subpanel should be sized appropriately for the amperage of the circuit it is fed from. In this case, the subpanel should be at least 60A, not 20A.
If the breaker only trips once a week you may have a bad breaker or the breaker may not be large enough for your A/C unit. You should also have an electrician look for any loose connections from the unit to the breaker panel. (It is not uncommon to have a bad breaker)
The operating handle will be found in mid throw. On smaller type electrical breakers there is a small trip indicator window and a red flag will be visible when the breaker has tripped. On larger physical size breakers you will definitely see that the handle is not in the off or on position. To reset any size breaker move the handle to the full off position. You might hear a click but you will definitely feel the internal mechanism re-latch to the off position. This has reset the breaker, move the handle to the on position and normal electrical power will have been restored. If you get an instantaneous trip after a reset do not try and reset the breaker again. Find the cause of the short circuit and get it repaired. Constant and repetitive resetting will destroy the breaker and increase the temperature of the short circuit. If the short circuit is in a highly combustive area this is not good. Find the problem and get it repaired.
It is possible that the circuit breaker for the compressor unit is thrown (switched to "off"). Go outside to the compressor unit and follow the big cable up to the circuit breaker panel on the wall. If it is off, throw the switch to "on." If that is not the problem, something is probably wrong with the compressor unit. Turn off the breaker panel and call a repairman.
You have a double pole breaker for 240Volt supply. The maximum current is 15 amp.
Circuit breakers are more convenient as they can be reset after tripping, whereas fuses need to be replaced. Circuit breakers also provide better protection against electrical overloads and short circuits. They are considered safer and more reliable than fuses for modern electrical systems.
The way to detect if a shunt trip breaker is malfunctioning is to manually trip the breaker. The shunt is usually wired through a auxiliary relay. Make sure that before you trip the breaker that the load can be shut off without taking a production line etc. off line. Trip the auxiliary relay using a test jumper to activate the relays coil. The breaker's handle will move to mid throw and the load will disconnect from the supply power. If the breaker trips then it is working properly. If the breaker does not trip trouble shoot the circuitry that is used to trip the breaker. Usual problem is an open circuit.
This name probably comes from engineers working on electrical installations such as railways. If it becomes apparent or suspected, that the line they are working on has become live, a quick and easy way to make it safe, is to throw a crowbar across the live terminals. This will cause an immediate short circuit, blowing a breaker or fuse. A large metal object such as a crowbar, would be to hand and ideal for making such a short circuit. Crowbar protection is 'brute force' way of making a circuit safe. Instead of breaking a circuit, it deliberately causes an overload, in order to trip a safety device futher down the line.
The old man helped him after the old man gave him some pellets that Breaker used to throw out into the river.
Your 110 volt washer receptacle sounds like it is not a dedicated circuit directly fed from the distribution panel as it should be. It sounds like someone has tapped off of one side of the dryer receptacle hot and neutral terminals and run them to the receptacle for the washer. If true, this would have been done in the back side of the dryer receptacles which is located in the wall. You best get it checked out because it is likely the wire feeding the washer receptacle is a #14 rated at 15 amps and is undersized for a 30 amp breaker. A #10 wire has the capacity to be connected to a 30 amp breaker which you should find the dryer's connection to be.
The duration of A Throw of Dice is 1.23 hours.
The duration of Throw Down is 1.58 hours.
There are a couple things that could happen, worst of all would be harming yourself. If the dryer was plugged into a working GCFI receptacle, then nothing should happen except the little red button on the GFI would trip. They are designed to trip faster than a heart beat. If the dryer is plugged into a regular plug circuit and if the breaker is working, then it will just trip as this will cause a "short" circuit. If the breaker is not working, then most likely there will be lots of sparks because it doesn't trip. Something should trip, even the 100 amp main should go. The only time you would be in trouble is if you are in between the circuit somehow. ie, you are holding onto the tap at the same time and there is copper plumbing, or you are holding the dryer when you put it in. My recommendation, just don't do that.... Andy The above answer is not entirely accurate. If it is a properly functioning GFI circuit then yes the GFI should trip. The key feature of GFIs is that they detect the difference between the current being supplied and the current returning. If you drop a drier in a bathtub then at least some of the current will be grounded through the plumbing (and you along the way). So the GFI should trip and they trip quickly. However if it is a regular circuit breaker then you do *not* have any guarantee that it will protect you. The water *may* short the drier and cause a large enough current flow to trip the breaker. However it may not. It could have enough resistance to limit the current below 15A or whatever the circuit breaker trips at. In which case it won't trip at all. Regular circuit breakers are there to prevent short circuits from overloading the wiring which would burn your house down. They're *not* there to prevent you from being electrocuted. You, and even a bathtub of water, have resistance which depending on various factors may be enough to avoid overloading a regular circuit breaker.