If you are asking can you put a device, controlled by a switch, using a connection with an outlet, the answer is yes. The caveat is that whatever you add must stay within the amperage rating of the controlling fuse or breaker.
The fan is probably a 115 VAC single phase fan and the outlet is probably a 230 VAC "two phase" outlet. The fan would then have the following wires: hot (black), neutral (white), and ground (green). The outlet would then have the following wires: hot #1 (black), hot #2 (red), neutral (white), and ground (green). Pick either of the two hot wires on the outlet and connect the hot wire of the fan to that (ignore the other hot wire on the outlet) and connect the neutral to neutral and ground to ground. If the wire colors are not as I described above you may have something else (e.g. 3-phase) and that would be wired differently, but those systems are usually used only in industrial settings not the home.
The one wire carries the electricity or voltage. The lamp is grounded completing the circuit. You don't. The light switch is only half the circuit, a lamp has nothing to ground to so it can not work. If the wire to the switch is 3 wire, the bare wire would complete the circuit and power the plug, but it would not be up to code and could present a fire hazzard.
An ordinary light switch does NOT have any neutral -- it only switches the live wire. Some installers use the white wire as a "switched" wire to the light fixture, where the power cable went to the light and a separate cable went to the switch. Technically, the white wire should have been marked with red or black tape at each end, to signify it is not neutral - it is either live or off. In that case, you would not be able to use a PIR switch because there is no neutral, which is necessary to provide power to the electronic circuit in the PIR. You would need to rewire the switch with a new power cable from the branch circuit. The you have the live and neutral wires in the outlet box, connect them to the PIR, and run the pigtailed neutral and the switched live (and pigtailed ground) to the light fixture (where you would disconnect the other power cable completely and cap the ends separately).
You must route a wire 12/2 or 14/2 to the receptacle from the switch in order for the switch to break the circuit. Always switch the black wire at the receptacle, not the white (neutral). As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If there is a black wire going from the outlet to the switch and the other side of the switch goes back to the outlet then just cut these wires and connect supply wire directly to outlet. If the supply goes to the switch first, disconnect from switch and connect the two wires with a wire-nut. Some situations only switch one of the two outlets in a duplex device. Do the same thing, but also replace the outlet since the strapping between both outlets has been removed.
Black is hot and white is neutral. If you are switching something you switch the black, so that is what you would cut.
If you are asking can you put a device, controlled by a switch, using a connection with an outlet, the answer is yes. The caveat is that whatever you add must stay within the amperage rating of the controlling fuse or breaker.
You will need a receptacle that you can wire each outlet separately (not jumpered). You would then wire the switch in series on the line conductor with the outlet you want switchable. Wire the other outlet directly to the power source. You can jumper the neutral from one outlet to the other.
The fan is probably a 115 VAC single phase fan and the outlet is probably a 230 VAC "two phase" outlet. The fan would then have the following wires: hot (black), neutral (white), and ground (green). The outlet would then have the following wires: hot #1 (black), hot #2 (red), neutral (white), and ground (green). Pick either of the two hot wires on the outlet and connect the hot wire of the fan to that (ignore the other hot wire on the outlet) and connect the neutral to neutral and ground to ground. If the wire colors are not as I described above you may have something else (e.g. 3-phase) and that would be wired differently, but those systems are usually used only in industrial settings not the home.
Many outlets have small tabs between the terminal screws that can be broken out with a needle nose pliers. You can completely separate the continuity of the top outlet from the bottom outlet by breaking both these tabs and wiring each outlet as a completely separate circuit. The ground plug is the only line that cannot be separated this way, and will remain common for both outlets. Alternatively you can break a tab only on one side and have the outlet share either the neutral or hot line. For a outlet set up to have constant power on the bottom break the tab on the neutral side, wire your hot line as normal and the "constant" neutral to the bottom neutral terminal, then run a second neutral from your switch. This would allow for the bottom outlet to be live all the time and the top to be switched on or off.
The one wire carries the electricity or voltage. The lamp is grounded completing the circuit. You don't. The light switch is only half the circuit, a lamp has nothing to ground to so it can not work. If the wire to the switch is 3 wire, the bare wire would complete the circuit and power the plug, but it would not be up to code and could present a fire hazzard.
An ordinary light switch does NOT have any neutral -- it only switches the live wire. Some installers use the white wire as a "switched" wire to the light fixture, where the power cable went to the light and a separate cable went to the switch. Technically, the white wire should have been marked with red or black tape at each end, to signify it is not neutral - it is either live or off. In that case, you would not be able to use a PIR switch because there is no neutral, which is necessary to provide power to the electronic circuit in the PIR. You would need to rewire the switch with a new power cable from the branch circuit. The you have the live and neutral wires in the outlet box, connect them to the PIR, and run the pigtailed neutral and the switched live (and pigtailed ground) to the light fixture (where you would disconnect the other power cable completely and cap the ends separately).
A half hot outlet is an electrical outlet where one half is always powered and the other half can be controlled by a switch. To install a half hot outlet in a residential setting, you would need to first identify the outlet you want to convert, then rewire it so that one half is always on and the other half is controlled by a switch. This can be done by connecting the switched wire to the outlet's hot terminal and the always-on wire to the outlet's neutral terminal. It's important to follow proper safety precautions and consult a professional electrician if needed.
You must route a wire 12/2 or 14/2 to the receptacle from the switch in order for the switch to break the circuit. Always switch the black wire at the receptacle, not the white (neutral). As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
In the US, house wire has the BLACK wire connected to the HOT phase of the service input. The WHITE wire is connected to the NEUTRAL of the service input. Normally, both BLACK and WHITE wires are each connected to the 2 LOAD terminals. It is also normal that the WHITE service wire is connected to the wider spade outlet receptacle. The BLACK wire would then be connected to the shorter or narrower outlet spade receptacle. In wired screw lamp circuits, it is normal to wire the BLACK service wire to the center pad of the lamp socket and the WHITE wire to the screw shell of the socket. In switch circuits, it is normal to wire the BLACK service wire to the switch. The HOT service circuit is then opened or closed by the switch. Measuring voltage on your neutral means there is a break in neutral. If the neutral is broken you will measure voltage across the break or from the break to ground. Under this scenario you will measure the same voltage as you do on your hot wire and your load should not be working. Measuring voltage on your neutral less than on your hot wire may mean you have a problem where your neutral is supposed to be bonded to ground in your main service panel. In this scenario your load may be working but you need to check the bonding connection.
i there a switch on a saturn that would cause it not to start Yes the neutral safety switch.