You can, but u will blow the sub most likely. So I would NOT suggest it.
You can create an oscillator without using LC components by using an operational amplifier (op-amp) configured as an astable multivibrator. The op-amp can generate a square wave output using resistors and capacitors to create the necessary feedback loop for oscillation. This circuit can provide a stable frequency output without the need for inductors or capacitors.
Of course it does not use one bit of current. Pencil sharpeners have a switch that activates the current. When it is being used, it uses about .05 of an Amp. When not in use, there is zero current being used, even if plugged in. This is the same for an office stapler, etc. Hope that helps! Howard
There are two differences: a) the amount of feedback you allow b) whether you wire a frequency-determining device into the circuit First things first: ANY amplifier circuit that uses feedback, which these days is most of 'em because feedback improves the quality of an amp's output, will oscillate if there's enough feedback. This poses a real problem because the more feedback you use, the better the amp sounds. Your challenge, therefore, is to make an amp that uses not quite enough feedback to oscillate. The other is equally critical. If you want oscillation you usually want it on a specific frequency. You can build an LC tank or a crystal into the circuit to determine the output frequency if you're building an oscillator; if you're building an amp you wouldn't do this.
A circuit may have been designed to run delicate gadgets which require only, say 1 amp. There may be others that support gadgets that require only, say 3 amps. And there may be circuits that support gadgets that require 13 amps. The respective circuits will work even with 13 amp fuse on all of them as long as someone knows that the current will not exceed the specified amounts. But the moment the current exceeds the amount that the circuit is not designed for, the 13 amp fuse will still pass the excess current through these devices and they will be damaged. So it is advisable to use the correct fuses for each circuit. An analogy, suppose there is a household, where the father is a pro football linebacker whose breakfast consists of 12 eggs, 2 lbs of sausage, 12 slices of bread, 4 bowls of cereal, half a gallon of juice, half gallon of milk etc. In the same house is a high school student whose breakfast consists of 2 eggs, no sausage, 2 slices of bread, 1 cup of juice. Also in that house is an infant which gets 8oz of similac for breakfast. All these are set up on the table. When the mother says "come and get your breakfast", each person knows what he is supposed to consume (or the mother supervises) and so no problem. Suppose one day the mother has gone out and there is temporary help and she says "you can have what you want". The infant gets the dad's breakfast, the high school student gets the similac and the dad get the high school student's breakfast. Assume that they all somehow consume the breakfast served to them. The dad will not perform well on the field but will survive, so will the high school student (he will be tired and cranky), but the infant (because of the overload) will suffer a lot.
For some reason, UL (the group which evaluates the safety of electrical products) says that you shouldn't daisy-chain multiple power strips, and that you shouldn't plug a power strip into an extension cord. Any instructions that came with your power strip would probably tell you the same thing.
A passive subwoofer doesn't have a built-in amp and will require the use of an amp.
You must first check with the guide to your subwoofer. Either you can probably find it online , but you need to know the RMS wattage for the subwoofer. Than buy an amp that can put out the same number of watts and the RMS is for the subwoofer.
Yes, you can use a 600 watt amplifier with a 500 watt subwoofer. It is important to ensure that the amplifier's output power does not exceed the subwoofer's power handling capability to avoid damaging the subwoofer. It is also recommended to properly set the gain levels on the amplifier to match the subwoofer's power handling.
It's so you can use your stereo speaker output wires to the amp without having to use RCA cables It should say High Level Input and you use it or RCA cables. Not both. If you plan on using the amp to power subs use RCAs. If you plan on running mids and highs you can use what you like. If your stereo has front and/or rear RCA outputs as well as sub output it's your call
With Subwoofers only, you would want to go with only a 1 channel or 2 channel amp, 5 channel amps are designed to power 4 smaller speakers, and 1 subwoofer. Each channel basically refers to a different speaker - if you're using 2 regular left and right Speakers (not Subwoofers), use 2 channel setting, if you have 4 Speakers plus a subwoofer, use 5 channel setting. Make sure subwoofer is tested with the lowest gain/volume.
Ford OEM block heaters are all 600watt (5.3 amp x 115 volt). aftermarket heaters are available up to 1000watt. (1 kilowatt).
Well, you are talking about two separate sound outputs. The audio built into the PC and the audio system that is built into the HDMI system. If you don't use the audio from your pc...the sound is heard from your hdmi device...in this case the TV. Most TVs don't have a spot to simply attach a subwoofer and you have to once again send the output (from the TV) to an external amp...where you can attach external speakers and a subwoofer. Or...you can simple use the PC audio to plug into a speaker system with a subwoofer. Your TV becomes strictly a MONTIOR.
2 hours. 500watt x 1 hour = .5kwh
Yes you can hook up a car subwoofer to a dj amp. Some dj amps have a barewire hook up on them so you can hook it up using the same wires as you would with your car amp. If not then you would have to either convert your hook up on the speaker box to the style in which your amp takes, or splice new ends onto your existing wires to hook up to the amp. The one thing to watch out for is your rms and peak power. Dj amps tend to be a bit more powerful then car amps and you can cause damage to your speaker and or amp by forcing to much power, or by giving to little power. I suggest trying it out at home for a good amount of time on a med. power level to see if the amp and speaker can hold to a couple hours of non stop use before I would take it to a gig with me.
Because of the blue power remote wire leading from your head unit to your subwoofer amplifier acts like a light switch. When you turn your head unit(stereo) on it turns on your amp powering the subwoofer but if you use blue tooth the unit is designed for talking not for bass so it will not send sound signal to the subs.
When buying an amp its best and safe to use the 1:1 ratio. That would mean if subs RMS was rated at 350 watts then get a 350 watt amp. Alot of installers will use 3:1 ratio because the subs max rated at 1200 watts so they say you will need a 1200 watt amp. But the truth is that sub may only peak a fraction of a millisecond. So unless your competing for a title championship there is no need to destroy you subs that you paid so much for.
No, this is a passive subwoofer designed for car audio applications. Modern home theatre receivers have no amplifier for the subwoofer and expect a powered sub.