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We assume waves to be surface phenomena but they are not. What we observe on the surface is just limited evidence of the real 'wave' energy form translating through a medium.
A wave is the circular motion of a medium (particle system) , which means motion as a body NOT spinning of particles. i.e Hold a teaplate, face towards you, now move it in a circle on the disc plane with a diameter few inches greater than the plates. Now get some other people each side of you to do the same, then all move sideways with the plates, as you do so.
The motion of a spot of dirt on a plate now well represents the motion of a particle of water in a wave system. Only the top of the plates represents the surface of the water.
Now you can see that if the water gets shallower the wave is in trouble at it hits the bottom! The shape of the oscillation is then forced to shorten' so the profile changed, speed of propagation reduced but speed of oscillation increased, so wavelength reduces (Doppler Blue Shift) making the top curves steeper.
That's why all waves steepen approaching the shore (and then 'break' in very shallow water.
What else can I help you with?
How do waves change their approach the shore?
As waves approach the shore, they experience shoaling which causes them to slow down and increase in height. This is due to the decrease in water depth and the wave energy becoming compressed. The waves then break as they reach shallower waters, eventually dissipating their energy on the shore.
Which force acts on a ocean wave as it nears the shore causing it to act differently?
The force that acts on an ocean wave as it nears the shore is called shoaling. Shoaling is the process where the wave interacts with the seafloor, causing the wave to slow down and increase in height. This is what causes waves to break as they approach the shore.
How do waves change is the approach the shore Apex?
As waves approach the shore, they typically slow down and increase in height due to interactions with the seafloor. This causes the wave crest to become steeper and eventually break near the shoreline. The energy of the wave is dissipated as it breaks, leading to the wave eventually losing its energy and transforming into swash and backwash movements along the shore.
What force acts on a ocean wave as its nears the shore causing it to act differently?
The force of friction between the wave and the seabed as the wave approaches the shore causes it to slow down and increase in height. This interaction, known as wave shoaling, leads to changes in the wave's characteristics, such as height, speed, and steepness.
What happens As a wave nears the shore its characteristics begin to change when the water depth is half of its?
When a wave nears the shore and the water depth is half of its wavelength, the wave starts to feel the seabed below. This causes the wave to slow down, shorten, and increase in height. This process is known as wave shoaling.
What happens to tsunami's as they move toward shore?
Their wave size increases.
How does the speed of a tsunami wave change as it approaches the shore?
As a tsunami wave approaches the shore, its speed decreases due to the wave energy being compressed into a smaller space. This leads to an increase in wave height and impact force when the tsunami hits the coastline.
Can a tsunami bring sharks on shore?
Yes. All manners of marine animals can be brought on shore by a tsunami. Note, though that a shark brought on shore by a tsunami would be stressed enough that it would not be interested in eating.
How does the speed of the tsunami wave change as it approaches the shore?
The speed of a tsunami wave decreases as it approaches the shore due to the shallowing of the ocean floor, causing the wave to compress and slow down. However, the height of the wave may increase as the energy in the wave is concentrated, leading to higher waves onshore.
Is a tsunami highest when its in the middle of the ocean?
No. A tsunami is highest in the shallow water near shore.
What happens to a shore when a tsunami hits?
It disappears until the tsunami dies away. I don't know what happens to a tsunami but this is what I think.
Is it true that an earthquake on the ocean floor can produce a tsunami which may grow into a huge wave as it approaches the shore?
Yes, an earthquake on the ocean floor can displace large amounts of water, causing a tsunami. As the tsunami wave approaches shallow water near the shore, it slows down and the height of the wave can increase significantly, resulting in a destructive surge of water reaching the coast.
Why do these changes occur when a tsunami wave is approaching the shore?
When a tsunami wave approaches the shore, two main changes occur: the water level rapidly decreases offshore as the wave pulls water toward it (causing the ebb phase) and then rapidly rises as the wave reaches the shore (causing the flow phase). This phenomenon is due to the displacement of water by the tsunami wave as it travels towards shallower waters.
How does the speed of tsunami wave change as it approaches the shore?
The wave would slow down as it approaches the shore.
What can be done during a tsunami to minimise the damage?
Not live near A shore.
Safety precaution in tsunami?
When a Tsunami occurs dig big pits near the sea shore as the speed and the quantity of water will get reduced.
Is an earthquake always followed by a tsunami?
No not always only when the earthquake is off shore if it is on land then there isn't a tsunami. What happens is if the earthquake is off shore it causes a little mountain form and the water that was once in the space that the mountain now takes up creates a wave that gradually picks up more water then more speed and there you have it: A tsunami
