Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self test the computer runs the car through, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist.

The following worked on my 2000 Neon: After replacing what the diagnostic test said was bad, I disconnected one of the battery cables for approximately 30 minutes. I then made contact or touched the battery terminal with the cable battery clamp three (3) times and then connected the cable to the battery. It reset the computer.

P1416 is your O2 censors.

ANSWER:

P1416 refers to a problem in the exhaust system which is, unfortunately, very difficult to track down. Depending on who you talk to about it, you can do nothing and never have a problem or you can do nothing and it can ultimately lead to a problem with the catalytic converter. Damned if you do and damned if you don't.

first, check behind each of the tires to make sure the ABS wire is connected to the hub assembly (a wire comes from the engine and plugs into a clip on the hub). if that doesnt work see a mechanic. is the "anti-lock" light on as well? i have this problem. one of my ABS wires lost the clip so i need to get one from the junk yard. Is the car sputtering? it can also be problem with engine. Mine would come on when I had a problem with my injector.

On a computer controlled car, the computer needs the battery to for voltage regulation. With the battery unhooked, it may shut off. That is not an indication of an actual problem. The proper way to check the alternator is with a voltmeter.

If you have the owner's manual don't forget to look in there - it is explained in there. I'm not entirely certain about the '04 model year, but mine was the model just preceding it. On my CR-V - located in the clear plastic panel that covers the instrument cluster - at the center bottom - just to the right of the odometer there is a small black plastic slot through the clear plastic. On mine - you insert the ignition key into that slot and lightly push it straight in (without turning) it contacts a push-switch that resets the on-board computer for another 7,500 miles when the light will againt switch on to remind you to service the engine.

Easiest way to "Reset" the Check Engine Light. Use an OBD2 reader. You can purchase one yourself($100.00 or so) or you can just go to a car parts store ex: Auto Zone, O' Rileys Auto Parts, Napa, etc. They will assist you or let you use the OBD2 reader yourself. Hook up the OBD2 reader to the designated hookup, make sure your car is not running. Turn the key to ignition, but DO NOT start. Power the OBD2 reader ON and the OBD2 reader should automatically diagnos your problem, tell you why the Check Engine Light is on and also you have the option of "Resetting" or to "Erase" the check engine light code. CODE, meaning, your car sends a certain code for certain problems and the OBD2 reader, reads that code and tells you what part(s) need to be replaced or fixed. Hope this was helpful-Danny(15yr Mechanic)

See the below link:

hold off and warm intill gas gage lightes up. the codes will flash out of the gas gage. press off to exit.

Check all connectors for moisture and dry them out.

If this occurs, then it means that there is a problem with you engine. A mechanic can figure out how your engine should be fixed.

The code P1400 reads "DPFE Sensor Voltage Low" (Ford, Mazda). Often it's caused by a bad DPFE sensor or clogged EGR passages. DPFE stands for (Differential Pressure Feedback EGRI) I would clean the EGR valve which cost nothing. If that does not cure the problem, you may need to replace the DPFE sensor, which does cost, and it may not fix the problem. If you want to be sure you replace the correct part, then visit your local Ford dealer.

dpfe stands for delta pressure not differential.

You can reset an airbag light that is blinking by connecting an ODBII code reader. The warning can then be removed which will cause the light to go out until another error is detected.

egr solenoid is the most common problem. The EGR Solenoid has a vacuum hose at the top running from the EGR Valve and one vacuum hose that connects to the upper intake manifold. The solenoid is brown in color. Try replacing all of the vacuum hoses before anything first for only 3.00 this could fix your problem as well. (you have a vacuum diagram on your hood)

Yes, that is one of hundreds of possibilities.

If the main and/or rod bearings are worn, the oil pressure can't be maintained after the oil warms up and thins out. You might be able to get a little more life out of the engine by switching to a heavier weight engine oil.

It is possible also that just the oil pump has worn and can't produce enough pressure at idle. Very often, though, if the pump is worn, so are the bearings, and vice-versa.

If they worked on the transmission there should a warranty period.
Call them, then take it back and make them fix it. Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For more information. If the transmission is leaking and it won't shift, try checking the transmission pan and filter. They might not have replaced the gasket or filter.