This code is defined as: Output Speed Sensor Circuit

If its just on or flashes all the time then you have a problem with your security system. If it just comes on when you start the car then dont worry about it. Go see a dealer if there is an issue,

Take it to Auto Zone and have the codes read for free.

If the light stays on, it shows that there is a hard fault in the fuel system, emissions control etc etc. Either disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or so or take it to a shop to get the code read..that will tell you what part is malfunctioning. There is no other way to shut it off because the light is controlled by the ECM.

I have taken it to the shop but the computer says there are no codes stored then the light goes out but a few days later it comes back on I take it to the shop and it is the same responce No Codes Stored and the light goes out

It Normally will signify something that is more serious, opposed to something minor, the most common reasons are either low oil pressure or low oil level.

It could be as simple as the viscosity of the oil does not match what the manufacturer requires for the engine. My limited 5.7 hemi requires 5/20; there is a sensor that will trigger the oil light to come on if it detects a different weight. However, the best thing to do is to take it to the dealer, and let them read the code.

You can try disconnecting the battery negative cable for 5 minutes. If that does not work then you will have to use a scan tool to reset the light. Know that if you do not repair the problem that caused the light to come on, it will just come right back on.

Most likely a speed sensor at one of the front wheels has attachment broken.

The ECM is located under the coolant reserve tank and mounted to the front of the strut tower. Only a single nut holds it in place. once you remove the nut simply pull it out.

The check gauges warning is an additional warning to the driver that something is not right. If you see this warning, be sure to survey all the indicators on your instrument panel...especially oil pressure and engine temperature. If you see anything you're not sure of, err on the side of safety and pull off the road, shut down the engine and seek help.

it may be an electrical problem (personal experience ground wire from engine itself came loose, vehicle just cut off and would not start again) re attached the wire and work like a charm.2 years ago and still working. check your ground wires trace them to chasis or back to batery,check your fuel injection(if so equipped) also check your ignition system.

that's egrc solenoid valve, you can go and get it check at any parts store or buy a obdII code reader and erase it if the problem persist replace the egrc solenoid, and have the code erased again it should fix the problem, althougth i had a problem like that and it wasn't the egrc, was the egr valve since goes connected to the egrc can give you that problem chek if you have a code for egr, if it shows the code i will suggest to replace the egr it's cheaper

The engine service light is on because there is a problem. The problem has to be fixed before the light can be reset. Your local auto parts store can plug a scanning device into your car and read the trouble code(s). They won't charge you for this service if you purchase the parts needed to repair the car from them.

Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights

The check engine light is on because of an emission control problem. In order to shut it off you have to have it hooked up to an OBDII code reader. The code reader will give you a code as to why it is on and can shut it off for you.

Hey Amy==It depends on the make, and which engine you have. I would check the bolts on the a/c compressor, and the belt for correct tension and if it is a serpentine belt check it for cracks and brittelness. Goodluck. Joe

Here's a copy of the invoice, I can't make sense of what's written about the codes.

KOEO (Key On Engine Off) 232, Primary coil circuit failure. 341, Octane jumper installed. This is to let you know Octane booster was installed.

KOER (Key On Engine Running) 411 and 412, Idle speed system not controlling idle speed correctly.

You may need to replace your idle air control it is near the throttle bottle maybe on the right side kind of under the throttle body it will have a wire that you need to disconect if you want to see a picture go to autozone. com and look it up then look for it where it said its an 86 so it may be worn take itvout clean it off it will be black just wipe it clean but don't spaybitvwithcwster because itvis an electric part hints the wire if that isn't it look at the mass airflow sensor a new one runs about $215.00 good luck

Unplug your battery and turn and hold the ignition switch to start. Hold it for about 30 seconds or so. Once you plug your battery back on, your truck will be hard to start until the computer re-programs.

If you do not repair the malfunction that caused the code, the check engine light will come back on.

They pertain to different problems the engine might be having, To check them read them as flash flash pause flash flash flash....that would be code 23 Check what they mean at the following website

http://www.troublecodes.net/suzuki/

You need to either possess a code reader and plug it into the port under the dash on the drivers side, or take it to the dealer who will read it for a fee, or a parts store who will read it for free. Then using that information you can cross the numerical code to a fault reason and figure out what needs to be repaired from there.

On many cars it was built into the headlight switch, which was a knob on the dashboard, you pull it outward to turn the headlights on, you twist it clockwise to make the dash lights brighter, counterclockwise to dim them.

Faulty: spark plug, spark plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another.

Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings