Flooring

Depending on area of country, 4.75-8.95 per sq. ft. includes grouting. Floor prep, leveling & underlay is extra. This type of flooring should be installed by professionals only. Diagonal and other custom patterns costs more. Odd room layouts cost more. There's usually a fee for moving furniture & appliances, removing and reinstalling plumbing fixtures such as toilets & tearing out the old floor.

Most vinyl flooring comes with finishes from matte to high gloss and do not need any additional treatment. There are products like "no wax waxes" that can add luster to a vinyl floor, but are not impenetrable. I think that because vinyl is a soft flooring material that is easily dented and cut, any substance used to create a hard glossy finish might crack and peel.

StableCrete is a proprietary liquid penetrating sealer for all concretes, new or aged. Deep Penetrating product that reacts within a concrete interior to form a solid Inside the matrix to waterproof the concrete. Extremely low VOC content product that does not leave a film on the surface and is compatible with all coatings to be applied later. Unequaled 15 year warranty for waterproofing following one step spray application. The No-Low moisture and oxygen interior provides corrosion protection for embedded steel members to prevent concrete spalling.

StableCrete is a proprietary formula manufactured exclusively for ConselcoR, Inc. it is available in 2.5, 5, 55 and 375 gallon totes. Telephone 321-779-4478 or E-mail StableCrete@gmail.com for pricing and shipping information. We ship worldwide with the smallest container being 2.5 gallon size.

Current price per gallon is $70.00 plus shipping and tax. UPS Ground and common carrier [truck] will take 3-4 days delivery in North America. We shop prices for freight forwarders outside the US and obtain clients approval prior to shipping.

There are no problems with customs or hazard materials when shipping the StableCrete product. Call or E-mail for more information.

Hardwood floors are cooler to the touch than carpet, but I don't consider them to be a cold flooring, nor do they make a house cold. The house is cold because of the way it is built and insulated.

Concrete floors are highly requested by people for industrial purpose as well as for home. They are durable, low cost and it requires very less maintanence. What I have done at my home is concrete flooring. I maintain it properly. A polished concrete floor just looks stunning. I recently polished the concrete floor in my home. I got it done from Floortex at Ontario, Canada. I should say a big thanks to the contractors because they have done such a good work. Polished concrete floors are resistant to moisture transmission issues too.

You can try to clean it with bleach or a special grout cleaner. White grout tends to turn yellow with time. You may want to dig out some of the grout and put new over it. Then be sure to seal the grout - an ongoing process.

It depends on what the tile is made of. Some stone tiles need to be treated and sealed to be non porous. Ceramic or porcelain tiles will be non porous. You can find out these things when you select a tile and ask how to care for it.

Also, as a rule of thumb most tiles that are used for household purposes (esp. showers, bathrooms, kitchens, etc) will be treated to make them nonporous even if the material they're made of themselves are porous

Concrete "Cures" instead of drying! In most cases a specification will call for 28 days as a Cure Period. During this cure time the intent is to maintain water inside the mix to allow for complete hydration of the key ingredient: Portland Cement! Complete hydration will result in the compressive strength achieving the mix design specifications. A mix for a home floor slab will be around 3-4,000 psi, where an industrial floor may be 8-10,000 psi.

Curing membranes, evaporation retarders and wet curing blankets are all used to keep the surface of a concrete from allowing evaporation of the mix water out of the matrix. Premature evaporation of mix water causes shrinkage cracks and curling, that can ruin a slab.

Consider use of a penetrating sealer as soon as possible after the finishing operation is completed. "Thumb Print Hard" is a rule of thumb for time. Temperature, humidity and wind speed [all affecting evaporation] may come into play, but generally speaking, as soon as possible. Use a sealer that doesn't form a film on the surface but rather wicks inside to form a solid inside the gel-pore/capillary system. This prevents evaporation, allows for complete hydration and curing without applying some compound that will have to be removed at a later date. The sealer should also warrant waterproofing of the slab and no adhesion problems of your tile set bond material. I use such a sealer that allows for painting or tile setting 48 hours after its application!

This procedure will allow for a tile set or coating to be applied in about three days after your concrete was poured. This also prevents internal chemistry of the concrete from migrating up and out to the surfaces, where it can cause "Alkali Burn" of a coating or a dis-bond of a thin set material. Check with the specifier on your project to get a buy in on this product and procedure !! You may have to educate him ?? Otherwise you can waste 28 days waiting for the "Normal Time Period" and still have vapor emission problems with your slab because the gel-pores are still open and the slab was not waterproofed!

The carpet is made of material that spreads the shock across the surface area of a greater distance than concrete.

Concrete is more dense than carpet making it susceptible.

Kind of "who's buried in Grants tomb" kinda question..

Polypropylene rugs are made from a petro chemical called Polypropylene, that's why they are Polypropylene rugs not cotton or wool rugs...

This largely depends on the properties desired. Laminate flooring can be very strong against impact but is very weak against water. Real wood floor also take more work to install and upkeep. However, with proper care they can outlive you. Also, since only the surface of laminates have the coloring a scratch cannot easily be repaired. Where as a light sanding and a new coat of urethane and the real wood floor looks brand new.

Tell me what magnasite is & I will tell you how to lay the floor...

The cuts relieve the stress in the concrete slab & allow it to break where you want rather than cracking where you dont

td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;} As per the term "sealed", sealed hardwood floor is coated with a finish or a coating. It means that your hardwood flooring has a protective top coat which mostly in form of a varnish or polyurethane and it may appear shiny, matte or even high glossy. So if you have oak timber or any other type of wood for your house flooring, you can have them sealed to avoid the threats of scratches or cracks as much as possible.

no that's what the sealer is for

keep water off of it.. that is about as much as you can add to it

WOW what a great question...

Yep a black light makes the enzymes & minerals foreign to the flooring Glow at a different rate.. It wont tell you if its semen, just show the pattern & size.. most foreign liquids will glow even after they are dried.. But if your looking for semen or urine, vaginal fluids on sheets, walls, comforter, flooring etc a standard black light will work , the darker the room the better the definition..

That would depend on whether they are ceramic tiles or more vinyl tiles.

1120 plus 10% for salvage= roughly1230tiles. you can probably return unused tiles

No but you can make them non-porous by putting a satin acrylic finish on them.

If the tiles are 12 inches x 12 inches then they measure 1 square foot. So, you would need 35 of them to cover an area of 35 square feet.

No. The tiles would only stick to the paper so when the paper came up, so would the tile. You need to start with a clean hard surface.

Cant be done sorry