Leather

How many times have we seen the advertisement claiming "Genuine leather" Or "Quality Leather". Just what is Genuine Leather, or Quality Leather, how do I know I didn't get ripped off? I often get questions at e-LeatherJackets.com about the quality of the leather we have, and if it real leather, or is it real patent leather. I will discuss the difference between Patent Leather, Vinyl, and PVC at the end of this article.

First, what is leather? Leather, simply stated, is the skin of an animal. So as long as the material is made from the skin of an animal, they can claim "Genuine Leather". Quality leather is a different story. When you finish reading this, you will be able to look at a leather garment and tell immediately if it is quality or not.

You may or may not have noticed that the flea markets, grocery stores, drug stores, and warehouse department stores have been selling the "Genuine Leather" Coats, Jackets, backpacks and luggage. They are of a patchwork design, and usually lined. These are typically made of lambskin leather and being sold for unreal cheap prices. There is nothing wrong with lambskin leather. In fact it is the leather of choice for any leather that is worn close to the skin. The lining too is a benefit if it is used for comfort or insulation. The patchwork design is the first indication that this is poor quality leather. The patchwork design is because they swept the scraps off the floor from the manufacture of other garments, fed them through a machine to sew the scraps together, created another sheet of leather and made more garments. The leather itself could made of various grades.

Let's talk about grades of leather. There are 3 primary grades of leather:

Grade 1 or "full-Grain" clear, supple, and clean, is consistent in color, has the highest yield of over 90% and the surface is smoothest.

Grade 2 is less consistent in color, has a yield of 78% and the surface is slightly imperfect.

Grade 3 is a blotchy and very inconsistent in color, has a yield of 40% and the surface is very imperfect and will feel stiff, partly from the excessive coating needed to hide imperfections.

These grades are standard no matter what type of animal the leather came from. There are a lot of different types of animals that are used for leather. Everything from lamb to cow, and alligator to Ostrich. The two most popular for use in garments are lamb and cow. For the sake of this article we will discuss these two.

LAMBSKIN

The softest, thinnest, most supple skin. A Buttery texture and finely grained. Stretches well and tends to reshape after wearing - has a type of memory. Drapes well, flows, and has good movement - very form fitting.

Higher-end leather-wear. Classy and more fashionable look.

LAMB TOUCH COW or COW NAPPA

Thin, Soft and supple - close in look and feel to lamb but is not lamb. A Smoother finish and finer texture to cow hide. Lightweight - has good movement and draping ability.

Sportswear and outerwear. Dressed-up, fashionable look. Coats skirts, pants, and vests.

COW HIDE

Very tough wearing and durable. Heaviest of the cowhides. Very noticeable texture skin and grainy.

Mostly outerwear - especially jackets. Weekend casual, ready-to-wear.

Ok, now we know the different grades, and types of leather, how do we know we got the good stuff? First, use your eyes. A very good way to tell if you're purchasing a garment of HIGH-quality leather is to look at the seams and needle marks. If they seem to be a different color than the garment itself this could mean that the garment is dyed on the surface only - surface-dyed as opposed to aniline-dyed leather (dyed on both sides).

Surface-dyed leather is much different to aniline-dyed leather because surface-dying is like adding a coat of paint to wood. It merely covers up the wood's natural surface and defects. Aniline-dyed leather is like adding varnish to wood, varnish allows the woods natural beauty to shine through by penetrating the surface instead of covering it up. The natural beauty of high-quality leather is visible through a sheer, rich aniline dye.

Check the items for overall color and craftsmanship. While all skins contain some natural marks, there should not be any large unsightly blemishes on the piece you are inspecting. A good manufacturer of leather apparel will not use leather of 2nd or 3rd grade.

Next, use your nose. The garment should smell like leather, not chemicals. And while we are on the subject of chemicals, you want leather that has not been treated with Azo Dye. Azo Dye is toxic and has been linked to many skin reactions.

And lastly, feel it. Is it soft to the touch, is it smooth. It should be free of any bumps and it should flex easily. It should not be stiff and hard to bend.

Patent Leather, Vinyl, and PVC:

It is surprising to me how many people do not know that there is a difference. In fact I have had to list my patent leather as vinyl and PVC just so that our listings will show in the search. First big difference is that Patent Leather is actually made from leather, vinyl and PVC are not.

History

Leather tanning is without a doubt one of the oldest human activities. In the beginning, skins obtained from hunting and livestock breeding could be used for clothing or tents, but they became stiff at low temperatures, while they rotted with heat. It was probably then that attempts were made to render them more flexible and stronger by rubbing in animal fats, the first rudimental tanning process is mentioned in Assyrian texts and in Homers Iliad.

The Egyptians also achieved considerable skill in processing leather, which they used for clothing (even for gloves), tools, and arms or simply for ornament. The historian, Strabo, tells of an interesting use developed by Phoenicians who made water pipes from it.

The Romans used leather both for footwear and clothing and for making shields and harnesses. A tannery was uncovered amid the ruins of Pompei and the same equipment of the kind still in use for centuries thereafter was found in it.

In the fourteenth century, for instance, leather was being used in combination with wood in chairs, arm-chairs, and settles with craftsmanship that reached the levels of an art-form. This was also the case later on with tapestries (especially in Venice in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries) with chests and cases, and of course, with book bindings, perhaps the most lasting and refined use of the material.

This is a further demonstration of the fact that leather tanning has gone hand in hand with the history of mankind, maintaining those features of "craftsmanship" which even today with increasing automation are an essential part of the personal sensibility and solid experience of those carry it on.