Leather

How many times have we seen the advertisement claiming "Genuine leather" Or "Quality Leather". Just what is Genuine Leather, or Quality Leather, how do I know I didn't get ripped off? I often get questions at e-LeatherJackets.com about the quality of the leather we have, and if it real leather, or is it real patent leather. I will discuss the difference between Patent Leather, Vinyl, and PVC at the end of this article.

First, what is leather? Leather, simply stated, is the skin of an animal. So as long as the material is made from the skin of an animal, they can claim "Genuine Leather". Quality leather is a different story. When you finish reading this, you will be able to look at a leather garment and tell immediately if it is quality or not.

You may or may not have noticed that the flea markets, grocery stores, drug stores, and warehouse department stores have been selling the "Genuine Leather" Coats, Jackets, backpacks and luggage. They are of a patchwork design, and usually lined. These are typically made of lambskin leather and being sold for unreal cheap prices. There is nothing wrong with lambskin leather. In fact it is the leather of choice for any leather that is worn close to the skin. The lining too is a benefit if it is used for comfort or insulation. The patchwork design is the first indication that this is poor quality leather. The patchwork design is because they swept the scraps off the floor from the manufacture of other garments, fed them through a machine to sew the scraps together, created another sheet of leather and made more garments. The leather itself could made of various grades.

Let's talk about grades of leather. There are 3 primary grades of leather:

Grade 1 or "full-Grain" clear, supple, and clean, is consistent in color, has the highest yield of over 90% and the surface is smoothest.

Grade 2 is less consistent in color, has a yield of 78% and the surface is slightly imperfect.

Grade 3 is a blotchy and very inconsistent in color, has a yield of 40% and the surface is very imperfect and will feel stiff, partly from the excessive coating needed to hide imperfections.

These grades are standard no matter what type of animal the leather came from. There are a lot of different types of animals that are used for leather. Everything from lamb to cow, and alligator to Ostrich. The two most popular for use in garments are lamb and cow. For the sake of this article we will discuss these two.

LAMBSKIN

The softest, thinnest, most supple skin. A Buttery texture and finely grained. Stretches well and tends to reshape after wearing - has a type of memory. Drapes well, flows, and has good movement - very form fitting.

Higher-end leather-wear. Classy and more fashionable look.

LAMB TOUCH COW or COW NAPPA

Thin, Soft and supple - close in look and feel to lamb but is not lamb. A Smoother finish and finer texture to cow hide. Lightweight - has good movement and draping ability.

Sportswear and outerwear. Dressed-up, fashionable look. Coats skirts, pants, and vests.

COW HIDE

Very tough wearing and durable. Heaviest of the cowhides. Very noticeable texture skin and grainy.

Mostly outerwear - especially jackets. Weekend casual, ready-to-wear.

Ok, now we know the different grades, and types of leather, how do we know we got the good stuff? First, use your eyes. A very good way to tell if you're purchasing a garment of HIGH-quality leather is to look at the seams and needle marks. If they seem to be a different color than the garment itself this could mean that the garment is dyed on the surface only - surface-dyed as opposed to aniline-dyed leather (dyed on both sides).

Surface-dyed leather is much different to aniline-dyed leather because surface-dying is like adding a coat of paint to wood. It merely covers up the wood's natural surface and defects. Aniline-dyed leather is like adding varnish to wood, varnish allows the woods natural beauty to shine through by penetrating the surface instead of covering it up. The natural beauty of high-quality leather is visible through a sheer, rich aniline dye.

Check the items for overall color and craftsmanship. While all skins contain some natural marks, there should not be any large unsightly blemishes on the piece you are inspecting. A good manufacturer of leather apparel will not use leather of 2nd or 3rd grade.

Next, use your nose. The garment should smell like leather, not chemicals. And while we are on the subject of chemicals, you want leather that has not been treated with Azo Dye. Azo Dye is toxic and has been linked to many skin reactions.

And lastly, feel it. Is it soft to the touch, is it smooth. It should be free of any bumps and it should flex easily. It should not be stiff and hard to bend.

Patent Leather, Vinyl, and PVC:

It is surprising to me how many people do not know that there is a difference. In fact I have had to list my patent leather as vinyl and PVC just so that our listings will show in the search. First big difference is that Patent Leather is actually made from leather, vinyl and PVC are not.

History

Leather tanning is without a doubt one of the oldest human activities. In the beginning, skins obtained from hunting and livestock breeding could be used for clothing or tents, but they became stiff at low temperatures, while they rotted with heat. It was probably then that attempts were made to render them more flexible and stronger by rubbing in animal fats, the first rudimental tanning process is mentioned in Assyrian texts and in Homers Iliad.

The Egyptians also achieved considerable skill in processing leather, which they used for clothing (even for gloves), tools, and arms or simply for ornament. The historian, Strabo, tells of an interesting use developed by Phoenicians who made water pipes from it.

The Romans used leather both for footwear and clothing and for making shields and harnesses. A tannery was uncovered amid the ruins of Pompei and the same equipment of the kind still in use for centuries thereafter was found in it.

In the fourteenth century, for instance, leather was being used in combination with wood in chairs, arm-chairs, and settles with craftsmanship that reached the levels of an art-form. This was also the case later on with tapestries (especially in Venice in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries) with chests and cases, and of course, with book bindings, perhaps the most lasting and refined use of the material.

This is a further demonstration of the fact that leather tanning has gone hand in hand with the history of mankind, maintaining those features of "craftsmanship" which even today with increasing automation are an essential part of the personal sensibility and solid experience of those carry it on.

The false tongue or kilty is a strip of leather with a serrated edge at the bottom which is held in place by the bootlace as it passes through the bottom eyelets. Whether you use it is up to you. Either you lace it in when you install the laces or you leave it out. Some people swear by them and think they are the epitome of the logger or lineman boot. Others think they make the boots look like golf shoes.

False tongues were originally intended to provide padding between the bootlaces and the instep of the foot in logger boots. This was necessary in boots which used thin leather for the tongue and also protected the tongue from wear by the laces. Some boots have thick, supple leather in the fully gusseted tongue, so the false tongue is not as necessary. It is a traditional complement to the boot.

Dying leather is an art not a science. Variations in materials, conditions and artists touch will have a direct effect on the result.

All items discussed in this guide are available in our ebay store.

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Zelikovitz Leather and Crafts

1. Preparing the Leather for Dying.

2. Applying the Dye.

3. Finishing with a Top Coat.

There are several types of Dyes available on the market today. The two most popular are waterbased Pigment and solvent based. Zelikovitz Leathers manufactures both.

For the purpose of this guide we will begin with Zelikovitz Professional Pigment Dye. This product is currently available in 20 colors. And finish up with a brief note on our solvent dyes at the end of the guide.

Leather is a substance of nature and varying composition... Differing in porosity and fibre structure... No two leathers will always accept a given dye giving uniform results. Therefore, it is suggested that the colour chart be used as a guide only and that you should always test a swatch before attempting your finished product.

Zelikovitz Professional Leather dye is a water base pigment. Think of it much as you would a water base house paint. You can wash your hands and tools with water and once dried it is colour fast.

1. Preparing the Leather for Dying.

In the tanning process, various protective surface finishes are given to leather hides. Over the course of the life of the project, you may have applied conditioners and protectors and no doubt dirt has accumulated on the surface of the leather. You must remove all this prior to any dye job. This will give you a clean surface and create the byte required for the dye to attach to the leather properly. The best product to use for this is ZeliPREP leather preparer/deglazer.

This is applied with a damp sponge or rag. You will notice that the finish will be removed as well as some of the color.

2. Applying the Dye.

After the leather has been cleaned and prepared as recommended above, you need to make sure you mix the dye well before use. Try turning the bottle upside down and shaking. You may have to give it a little stir with a stick to loosen the pigment at the bottom of the bottle. You can apply with a cloth however a sponge brush works best. An alternate method for covering large areas evenly is to spray with a spray-gun or air brush. A second coat of dye may be applied if required. Do not use a wool dauber or shearling, as they tend to hold back the pigments. Allow to dry between coats. If you want a lighter shade, try a coat of white first. If you want a darker shade, apply a coat of black. You can change the colour of leather and some vinyl. It is best to try a test in a small area first.

Dye Mixing: Because Zelikovitz Professional Pigment Dye is water based, it is very easy to mix colours. The dye applied full strength will go on opaque. If you want a translucent finish or stain you can mix with 50% water and 50% dye. You should do some trials on a swatch first. You can comfortably do a 75% water and 25% dye mixture. An infinite number of colours and shades are possible by combining existing dyes to create your own colours. The basic rules of any colour mixing apply.

For example:

Yellow and Blue = varying shades of Green,

Yellow and Red = varying shades of Orange to red,

Red and Blue = shades of Deep Purple to Lavender

Red and Purple = Wine

Brown and Yellow = Golden Brown or Tan,

Grown and Red = Maroon to Dark Brown

An infinite number of color shades are possible. Mixtures should always be tested on swatches until the desired color is achieved.

3. Finishing with a Top Coat

After you finished the first two steps and the dye is completely dry, it is recommended that you finish the project with some sort of top coat. Although it is not always necessary with our pigment dyes, it is with the solvent based dye.

Zelikovitz Professional Leather Top Coat is available in the following formats: Acrylic Matt Finish, Acrylic Satin Finish, Gloss Finish with Carnauba Wax.

Alternatively, you may want to finish the project with a mink oil cream for waterproofing or one of our other fine products available in our eBay store.

Zelikovitz Professional Pigment Dye... For dyeing leather shoes, boots, handbags, belts, hand carving projects ..

Solvent Based Dyes1. Preparing the Leather for Dying.

The process for preparing the leather is the same as above for Zelikovitz Professional waterbased Pigment Dyes.

2. Applying the Dye.

For solvent based dye you will need to apply evenly using a piece of woolskin, cloth or a dauber. As with the pigment dye, larger areas should be done with the spray method. After dying, remove excess surface dye by rubbing briskly with a soft cloth. Unlike our waterbased pigment dye, you will need to be very careful and watch where you put the dye. Clean up is not as easy so wear rubber or latex gloves. We have some really good ones in our store that are non alergic.

Color Control:

When changing from a previously dyed color, it is best to do it in two steps.

First, neutralize the original color with an intermediate color.

Then repeat the dying process with the final color desired. For example:

To dye white leather black, dye it green or blue and then black.

For white into dark blue, first weak black (4 to 1) then dark blue

For white into brown, first dye light green, then brown.

For red into black, first green then black.

For green into black, first red, then black

For white into bright red, first yellow, then red.

For white into dark red, first tan, then dark red.

Always let the first color dry before applying the second.

3. Finishing with a Top Coat.

Because the solvent dye leaves a flat haze on the surface of the leather and the color will transfer if not sealed, You will need to apply a top coat as mentioned above.

I hope you find this guide informative and will visit our eBay store.

Zelikovitz Leather and Crafts

Zelikovitz Leathers and Crafts - Since 1890