New Electrical Work

It depends on the power and impedance rating of the 12-inch speakers. If both speakers are rated for 175 watts and the amp can handle the impedance of the speakers, then the 350 watt amp should be able to power both speakers effectively.

A two pole, (220-240 volt) circuit breaker can go anywhere in a panel where it will physically fit, connecting to two poles on the buss bar. However, if you don't know this already, you probably shouldn't be fooling around in a live electrical panel. You can get seriously hurt or burned.

The specific number of amps needed for a freezer can vary depending on the model and size. Typically, a small freezer may require around 2-3 amps, while larger models might need 6-8 amps. Check the product specifications or consult the manufacturer for the precise amperage requirements of your freezer.

The fixture box should have a ground screw on the bottom of the box. Sometimes you have to move other wires out of the way to see it. Just reconnect the fixture ground wire to this screw.

Hi. Power Law or Watt's Law of James Watt tells us that Power P (in watts) = current I (in amperes) X voltage E (in volts) or P=I x E, therefore I=P/E so just divide 2000w by 240v. Thanks.

Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz power supply service. No it is still 100 amps. The two switches are 100 amps each but they protect the two separate legs, L1 and L2. If this is a main service the electrical code states that if either leg L1 or L2 trips both legs feeding the panel will shut the power to the panel completely off. If this is a separate load off of the mail panel which it sounds like it might be, because of the pin between the two breakers, the same rule still applies. L1 to neutral is 120 volts, L2 to neutral is 120 volts and L1 to L2 is 240 volts.

Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz power supply service. On a electrical panel boards the wiring numbers go from left to right, top to bottom. There are 2 hot legs coming into the panel. L1 and L2. Breakers on L1 are 1,2,5,6,9,10. Breakers on L2 are 3,4,7,8,11,12. This is a 12 circuit board. This configuration allows every two adjacent breakers to connect to 240 volts. Example 1 and 3, 3 and 5, 5 and 7, 7 and 9, 9 and 11. Same with the even number side. So you see that a two pole breaker connects across the two hot legs L1 and L2 no matter where it is on the panel board. Any of these breakers on a panel board to the neutral will give you 120 volts no matter if the supply leg is L1 or L2. Just remember L1 to Neutral equals 120 volts, L2 to Neutral equals 120 volts, L1 to L2 equals 240 volts. So the answer to your question, it can go anywhere on the panel board where there are two spare slots.

Work done per unit of time is defined as power. In the metric system, this unit is a watt. In the standard system, it is horsepower.

"How many amps can a 6 gauge wire 12v dc carry?"

It all depends. There are several factors. Probably the most important would be the expected length of the wire one way only. Others would include the type of wire insulation it has and the highest expected ambient temperature that the wire will be exposed to.

For example: AWG. #6 THHN copper is rated for 0 to 600 volts (ac or dc) and typically rated for 60 amps BUT! There are several "derating" factor to consider. The biggest one being voltage drop when dealing with low voltage direct currents. AWG. #6 THHN copper at 75*C wire with one set + and - in a steel conduit can carry 60 amps over a 10 foot long wire with a 5% voltage drop. So if you started out with 12.6 volts you'd end up with 11.97 volts or less.

By comparison, using that same scenario but using 120 vac, it could carry 60 amps, 100 foot with a 5% voltage drop which leave you 115 volts which is no big deal BUT!, it is a big deal to lose almost a whole volt at 12 vdc nominal.

Remember - Ohm's law - For a given wattage, if the volts change, the amps change and inversely, if either the volts or amps change, the wattage changes. A lot can depend on the type of load as well. Lights might burn dimmer. motors would run slower, a heater would put out less heat and so on and so forth. Or just not work at all.

No. You need 20 amp receptacles. ( if a single receptacle on an individual brach circuit NEC 210.21 (B)(1) )

Yes you can use a 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp breaker in the states but not in canada. ( branch circuit supplying two or more receptacle NEC 210.21(B)(3) )

15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit is not code, partly because 20 amp circuits use #10 ga wire, which does not fit unto a 15 amp receptacle,(can be forced but lots of work.) Also a 15 amp receptacle will not take the 18 amps continuios that a 20 amp recep. will. ( It is code, see above. 14 awg = 15 amp, 12 awg = 20 amp, 10 awg = 30 amp )

20 amp wire is 12 gauge not 10

Yes you can use 15A outlets and swithes on 20 amp breakers they are UL listed for 20 amp even if they are stamped for 15A as long as the wire is 12ga to. ( NEC Table 210.21 (B)(3) )

This may be do to corrosion or arcing at a connection point. Look for corrosion or blakened spots where the wires connect to the outlet, wire nuts, and breaker. Look also at the point were the breaker makes contact with the bus bar. If there are other outlets on the same circuit as is common, and the other outlets are working fine. Than you can skip checking the braker and will need to check the outlets on that same circuit where the problem outlet is fed power from. This is assuming that there is good power coming from the bus bar in the power panel. What you are looking for is something that can make resisance in the circuit. A broken wire inside it's jacket is also a possiibillity. Don't forget to check the neutral (usually white wire) for a problem. The most important thing is safety, shut off the power before checking the circuit and remember that the bus bars in the power panel are HOT with 110 and 110 or 220 volits. Something is using that power you are not getting to your appliance, and more than likely is turning it into heat. If you are not comfterable checking for bad connections yourself, call an electrician. It is very likely this is a fire hazard.

To build a large joule thief circuit for use with a wall outlet, you would need to increase the transformer's size and adapt the circuit to handle higher input voltages (usually around 120V AC for a wall outlet). It's important to prioritize safety measures like using appropriate insulation, proper grounding, and following electrical codes when working with high voltages. Consider consulting with an experienced electrical engineer to ensure the design is safe and functional.

A 15 amp hookup refers to an electrical connection that can handle up to 15 amperes of current. This type of hookup is commonly used for household appliances and devices that require a lower power output. It is important to not overload a 15 amp circuit to prevent electrical hazards.

For a 100 amp panel, a #4 copper or #2 aluminum conductor would typically be used as a neutral conductor. It's important to consult local electrical codes or a licensed electrician to ensure compliance with regulations and safety standards.

Some local electrical codes don't allow mini breakers, so check with local codes before you install them. As a general rule the total load of all breakers should not exceed the supply load of the main. As a general rule the total load of all breakers should not exceed the supply load of the main.

This is not a true statement . You will find that if you add up all the breakers, in most cases the total will exceed the main breaker total. On a 42 circuit board at 15 amp breakers the total will come to 630 amps. The way code looks at it is that not all circuits will be on at once and not all at full load. The main breaker only protects the service entrance wires. If the amperage of the main service wires becomes greater than that of the wire rating then the main breaker will trip.

The time it takes to install and wire new outlets can vary depending on factors such as the number of outlets being installed, the complexity of the wiring required, and the experience of the person doing the installation. On average, it can take a few hours to install and wire a single outlet, but this timeframe can be longer for multiple outlets or if there are obstacles to navigate during the installation process. It is always recommended to hire a licensed electrician for this type of work to ensure it is done safely and up to code.

It's 120 x 8 for things with a power factor of 1, like electric heaters, irons or incandescent bulbs. If the item connected has a power factor less than 1, like electric motors, televisions, computers or CFL bulbs, you have to multiply by the power factor.

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The formula you are looking for is Watts = Amps x Volts.

1,000 milliamps = 1 amp

180 milliamps = 0.18 amp

Calling an electrician is an excellent idea. If you are troubleshooting, the first suggestion would be to determine what the switch operates. Are there outlets that are in the circuit? Is fixed lighting wired into it? If there are interior lights (not lamps or things that plug in) operated from the switch, you may be stuck calling an electrician. It might make sense to unplug everything that is plugged into that circuit. Lamps or appliances or other electrical devices need to be disconnected. Does the switch still kick the breaker open? The bottom line here is that you can actually do a limited amount of investigating by unplugging everything and then plugging things back in one item at a time. (This assumes that unplugging everything then allows you to turn on the switch without the breaker kicking open.) If you find a defective lamp or appliance, you can take that to a repair shop or replace it. Problem solved. Anything that puzzles you or leaves you uncomfortable should be referred to a qualified electrician. It is dangerous beyond stating to "tinker" with the hardwiring in your house unless you know exactly what you are doing. People end up having the fire department come to their house to put out a blaze and/or attempt to resuscitate a victim (or victims) of smoke inhalation or electrocution. You've been cautioned because your life (and the lives of your family members) are valuable beyond words.

If the question asks how 13.5 volts can be supplied to a device that draws 20 amps (nominally), the supply responds to the setpoint selected (13.5 volts). The supply's voltage has the ability to actually change as the dynamic resistance of the device it supplies changes. That's weird because we want the voltage to stay the same. The supply is actually changing the amount of current it supplies as the resistance of the load changes, and this will keep the applied voltage fixed at 13.5 volts. How does that work? We know that for a given resistance, if we wish to supply a constant voltage, we will get a fixed amount of current draw. As the resistance changes (goes down) due to thermal effects, the supply will actually deliver more current to maintain the 13.5 volts. In this way, the supply can accomplish voltage regulation. It's classic Ohm's law. The volts equals the current times the resistance. If voltage is to remain constant, then the current times the resistance will have to remain constant. The onlyway this can happen is that as resistance goes down, current must go up. As the device heats up and its dynamic resistance decreases, the current it "demands" to keep the supplied voltage at the 13.5 volts goes up. The supply does all this automatically.

No, 300 milliamps is insufficient to make the component run, as it requires 5 amps. 300 milliamps is equivalent to 0.3 amps, which is significantly lower than the required amperage for the component to operate.

No, Cutler Hammer 1-pole breakers are designed to accommodate only one conductor per terminal. It is not recommended to install multiple conductors on a single terminal as it can lead to overheating and potential safety hazards. If you need to connect multiple conductors, you should consider using a different type of breaker or a junction box.

Power [Watts] = Voltage [Volts] * Current [Amps]

These equations assume purely resistive loads, all in the ideal format, anything other than ideal will vary based on your homes wiring, the types of breakers that you use, the type of device [load] that you put on the circuit, etc.

For a 20A Circuit:

120V (RMS) * 20A = 2400W (Keep in mind that this is an ideal case)

For a 15A Circuit:

120V (RMS) * 15A = 1800W (Keep in mind that this is an ideal case)