Oldsmobile

how to fix a sun roof top switch on a 1991 Oldsmobile

Blue

If your car is anything like my old '77 Buick Century Special its not terribly complicated, just a bit time consuming.

First, I'm presuming that the pump hasn't been changed in some time so you'll need plenty of Liquid Wrench or WD 40 to loosen those stubborn bolts both on the fan AND the pump housing. Spray liberally and let it sit for about 30 minutes to an hour. While the oil is working, drain the coolant out of the system into a bucket or other container by either opening the radiator petcock valve (if your car has one) or by removing the rad hose from the bottom connection port of the rad. Remove and/or loosen the appropriate belt(s).

Bear in mind that the fans on cars are "reverse threaded" so that they don't go spinning off into the radiator. Youll need 2 pairs of channel lock pliers or Vice Grips for this - one to grip the pump shaft and keep it immobile and the other to loosen and remove the fan blade assembly by rotating the fan assembly in a CLOCKWISE direction. Depending on how frozen or rusted the fan assembly is you might need a helper and a lever to get it to start breaking loose.

Once the fan blade is out of the way it gets a heck of a lot easier, because all that is remaining is pulling the pump pulley assembly and removing the bolts holding the old pump in place and seating the new pump with a fresh bead of liquid gasket. Make sure you don't mix the bolts up, though - they have to go back into the same holes they came out of. Let the liquid gasket sealant cure according to package instructions (usually 1-3 hours).

While the sealant is curing, reattach / reseat the coolant pump pulley and belt, reattach the fan blade assembly, and reattach the lower coolant hose if it was disconnected.

After sufficient time has passed, refill the system and turn it over to circulate for a few minutes and check for leaks.

*** Money saving tip: If the coolant you drained still has a bright green appearance and doesn't have a lot of brownish-colored deposits in it you can re-use it instead of buying brand new coolant.

YES, the 5A heads FROM A 307 can be installed on a 403. The307 heads are a BETERR choice than the 67 to 72 Olds 350 heads. The 307 heads have similar sized intake & exhaust ports to the stock 403 heads. The 307 heads have a much smaller combustions chamber at arounf 67cc. This alone will raise compression to around 9.5:1. The only down side is the 307 heads have much smaller valves. You really must get larger valves installed into the 307 heads. The stock 403 valves will fit with some machining (of course) and you'll have a high compression 403. Get some port work done while you are at it & a little polishing too. Buy a new intake & have it machine & port matched to the intake & a middle of the road Lunati cam. This will result in a 403 producing around 330 HP. I know it works because this is exactly what I did. Enjoy your Olds, Mark

Sounds like a sticking thermostat. When you say "the engine isn't hot", you mean "the radiator isn't hot", right? Because if the temperature gauge says overheating, your engine ishot

Yes...the dimensions are the same. The only difference may be the type of U-joint used from one car to the other. Otherwise, it should be a direct swap.

Did you change the fuel filter? Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator?

you will have to replace the line

If both ligths are not working at the same time it could be a bad switch that turns the lights on or it can be a bad gound under the car. Follow the wires that come fromt he reverse lights and see if you can find a possiable brooken wire or damaged wire. Hope this help you

If you have a car made after 1996 your Olds has an ODB-2 (also OBD-II) computer. The error codes stored in this computer must be cleared with a code reader or an ODB-II Scanner. If you have an older car, made before 1996 you have an ODB-I computer. The ODB-I can be cleared by removing both IGN (ignition) fuses for at least 2 minutes. You can also disconnect the negative terminal from the battery if you can't find the fuses (GM often put the ECM and related fuses under the hood).

I recommend that you first "read" the stored error codes. ODB-II is much easier and can be done with a hand-held scanner. Many auto parts stores have one that they will let you use if you can get your car to their parking lot. ODB-I codes can be read by SOME readers with proper adapters. Or you can stick a jumper wire into connector A to B and count the flashes. A $25 repair manual will tell you what the codes mean and make recommendations on how to fix them. But don't assume that an error code is all the diagnostic you need. An oxygen sensor might wear out after 100-150,000 miles, but if the oxygen sensor "goes bad" sooner than that you have a symptom not a cause.

If I remember correctly 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Drive is 3rd Gear. Overdrive is 4th Gear.

I went to autozone, and picked one up with about 8 psi. I installed the pump just after the tank, on the passenger frame rail. Works great. Has a one year warranty too.

The older GM cars used CCC (Computer Command Control) as the engine computer. Check the engine emissions sticker or the manufacturer's documentation first, but the general procedure to set the timing is to 1.) disconnect the 4 wire connector at the distributor, 2.) verify idle RPM, 3.) set timing with a light per the spec, 4.) reconnect the distributor, and 5.) reset the fault code caused by disconnecting the distributor.

Oldsmobile was a brand name used my General Motors until April 29, 2004.

Automatic Floor Shifter - 25 results like the 6423 Shifter Automatic, B & M 81011 Street Rod Shifter Auto Trans Shifter Kits, 3160009 Quarter Stick Shifter ...

for 85 oldsmobile toronado what is the bleeding sequence on the brakes

there is no engine vin vin stands for vehicle identification number

GM stopped producing Oldsmobile in 2004.

Perhaps a vacuum leak

yes but its not street legal

From the research I have done that block goes into 1968 - 1971 and possibly through 1975

non adjustable rockers only unless you bought aftermarket roller rockers in which case they are just like Chevy rockers to adjust. buy a new set that's the only way your goin to adjust em or you could posibly file them down but your risking alot there. id recomend just buying a new oe set for your 307ci.

Does the engine turn over and then make the clicking noise while trying to start, or does it not do anything but make the clicking noise when you turn the key. If its not turning over at all then it might be a battery problem, Try cleaning the battery terminals, and/or charge the battery, Could also be the starter solenoid, but start with the battery first.

Increased combustion chambers temps or too much ignition advance.