What should you use to varnish your eggs?
There are many different kinds of varnish that are suitable for pysanky. They range from inexpensive everyday varnishes to high end specialty varnishes. In choosing one for your pysanky, you should consider the type of finish you would like (satin versus glossy), how many eggs you will need to varnish, and how much you have to spend. Traditional Ukrainian pysanky were not varnished–to make them shiny, the pysanka-maker might rub a bit of goose or pork fat over the completed shell. While this may look OK in the short term, in the long term dust and grime accumulate and mar the finish. The insides of a pysanka dry up over time–the gases that build up inside pass through the permeable egg shell. If a full egg is varnished, the gases may build up and cause cracking, leaking and explosions (and quite smelly ones at that). If you plan to varnish your pysanky, you should either work on emptied egg shells, or empty the eggs either before or after varnishing. Most importantly, make sure that any varnish you use is OIL-BASED, not water-based. (Ask at the store if you are not certain; many brands sell both water and oil based varnishes under the same name.) Using a water-based varnish like shellac will wash the dyes off of the shell of the egg, ruining your pysanka.
=EVERYDAY VARNISHES= Polyurethane varnish This varnish has been around for a long time, and is used by many pysanka artists. It is clear, relatively inexpensive (a small jar goes a very long way), and dries to a nice, clear satin or gloss finish overnight. Brand names include Varathane and Minwax. A disadvantage of polyurethane varnishes is that they yellow slightly with age, and do not have UV protection. Since these varnishes were meant for wood product (furniture), the slight yellowing is considered a good thing by the makers. Different polyurethane varnishes have different degrees of yellowing; it is best to ask at your hardware store for a recommendation. AVOID marine spar varnish–it yellows A LOT! These varnishes are very easy to apply: put a few drops of varnish in the palm of your hand (using a vinyl glove makes clean-up much easier), and roll the egg around until it is evenly coated. It is best to apply it lightly, to avoid drips and thick spots. The newly varnished egg shoud be dried on a drying rack, either a fancy wooden one, or simply three thumbtacks pushed through a bit of cardboard (pointed ends against the egg shell). If the egg is already emptied, it can be dried by placing it on an upright skewer or thicker floral wire to dry (through the hole used for emptying). Eggs will dry in a few hours in dry conditions (e.g. my house in winter), and make take a day or longer in humid conditions (e.g. my house in summer). When buying varnish, purchase the smallest jar available, as it really lasts. Opening and closing the top of the can repeatedly dents it, breaking the seal and allowing air in. The varnish then thickens, crusts over and gets yellower, and will NOT look nice on an egg. DO NOT use thickened, yellowed varnish, unless you are applying it to a brown egg pysanka.
=SPECIALTY VARNISHES= Golden MSA Hard with UVLS This product can be purchased through retailers of fine art supplies, who often have to special-order it. It cannot be shipped, so you can't buy it online. Be sure to get the kind that says "Hard" otherwise you will find the varnish will not dry! Be sure to get the kinds that says UVLS (which stands for ultraviolet light spectrum) otherwise you will find that the dyes fade in natural light over time.
Finally, you must ignore the manufacturer's instructions. This product was designed to be thinned with mineral spirits and sprayed onto paintings. When the varnish ages, it can be removed with mineral spirits without damaging the art work and reapplied. Also, it is perfectly clear, and provides UVLS protection. Pysanky artists are using the product in a way that the manufacturer never intended or expected. (It works beautifully, though!) This is why you will not find detailed instructions on how to use MSA for pysanky elsewhere. After you dip an egg in MSA and invert it to dry, you have to watch it for a
while as the MSA slowly drains off the egg. Small drips of MSA will form at the base of the egg near the wire on which it is balanced, and you have to remove these with a paintbrush dipped in mineral spirits. The paintbrush should be fairly dry, though, because you don't want to thin the MSA - the only purpose of the mineral spirits is to keep the paintbrush from getting hard and stiff and unusable. Keep the brush in a small jar of MSA, and dab it on a paper towel before wiping the drips. It is difficult to apply MSA with your hands (gloved, of course) because the gloves interact chemically with the MSA. The varnish does not apply smoothly and does not self-level when applied with your hands. Also, a lot of varnish is wasted using that method, because so much of it ends up on the gloves
and gets discarded.
You can spray MSA, but to do so you have to thin it a lot with mineral spirits, which then requires multiple applications to get the hard glossy finish pysanky artists strive for. Also, you have to deal with ventilation issues - breathing in the spray is quite bad for your lungs! Do not thin the MSA because the varnish will not dry and the egg will remain tacky.
Ginny Barkman provided the following commentary: In the case of MSA, there are two drying processes that must happen for the film to be totally dry. Evaporative drying (where all the solvent in the liquid varnish must evaporate out of the finish), and
oxidative drying, where oxygen actually changes the state of the varnish molecules. Evaporative drying happens fairly quickly and is not really finished, as long as one detects an odor coming off the finish. Oxidative drying requires exposure to oxygen and takes a long time to happen, possibly as much as 6 months to a year, (as it does with paint on an oil painting). You can recoat before the oxidative drying is complete, but the longer time waited between coats means higher success in achieving that perfect finish. You can recoat before the evaporative process is totally achieved as well, but the success rate goes down as the impatience goes up. Do not expect your finish to be really-really "dry" for a long time. Basically it boils down to a few simple things when using MSA. How patient are you? How willing are you to do a really good job on cleaning your egg before varnishing it? If you intend to use a solvent, are you willing to use the proper solvent or are you going to substitute something else and expect things to work out perfect? If you use MSA un-diluted by solvent, are you willing to tend it until it no longer sheets or drips? This might mean a half hour or an hour of your undivided attention. A lot of people complain that MSA doesn't work for them. Even in fairly humid conditions, it seems to work. If many coats are applied, and one allows sufficient drying between coats, it will be very glossy and deep in appearance. Many coats will take a long time and greater skill in tending to the process. One might ask, how long? The answer is: "As long as you are able to tolerate the wait, and then some". A few key points... you must have good ventilation during the varnishing, so the evaporative process can take place. You must also have plenty of air around the egg later, so that it is in contact with oxygen allowing the oxidative drying to continue. This means, do not wrap it in plastic bubble wrap, use uncoated paper tissue. Do not use Kleenex or other soft fiber papers, as this invites the sticking of fibres to the varnish. Do not set the egg on plastic or waxed Easter grass, as this acts like a plastic wrap around the egg. Do not store eggs in styrofoam cartons. This also encloses it far too much to allow proper airflow for continued oxidative drying. When shipping an egg, use only paper cartons and paper tissue to
pack, not styrofoam peanuts. Cushion by using loose papers and successive inner cartons, not tightly packed single boxed materials. Avoid using excessive plastic tape on the outer carton, as this makes
it more airtight.
Soluvar Gloss Varnish Soluvar Gloss Varnish made by Liquitex is an archival removable varnish made for acrylic and oil paintings. It works well with eggs because it is colorless and non-yellowing and contains UV light stabilizers. It is thin and can be applied manually. Because of the thin consistency it dries quickly. The can recommends 3-5 days for drying time of paintings. Eggs seem to be dry overnight, but I have found some tackiness when applying a second or third coat too soon. The finish is shiny, but not glassy like an epoxy. The product comes in a small can with an inside protective metal cap that needs to be removed. The metal cap can be removed easily with an exacto knife.
How do you prepare onion skin dye for pysanky?
Onion skin dye should be made from the outer, dry skins of yellow onions (for traditional onion skin dye). Do not include any actual onion pieces. Save these until you have a lot of them (at least a "generous" handful), and then cut them up into small pieces. Put the onion skins into a pot, and add just enough water to cover them. Use a glass or wooden stirrer (not metal). Heat the mixture to a low boil, and then cook until the water reaches the desired color. Onion skins will produce anything from a light gold to a deep reddish-brown color. This could take anywhere from a few minutes to an hour. Keep in mind that the color of the eggs will be much lighter than the color of the dye solution. Strain the mixture, after it has cooled, though a cheesecloth or strainer into another container. DO NOT add vinegar. Store in the refrigerator in a closed glass container until needed. (The dye may stain plastic containers.) When dyeing, you will need to bring the dye back to room temperature before using. Dyeing natural dyes takes much longer than with chemical dyes (which dye in minutes, if not seconds), so be prepared to wait a while. Also, natural dyes do not last very long (although refrigeration swill prolong their effective life). If the dye begins to smell funny or get cloudy or moldy, throw it out.
There are hundreds of different symbols and motifs that can be found on traditional pysanky. Many date back into Ukrainian prehistory, and almost all certainly pre-date Christianity. The meanings of many have been lost, others have changed over time, and some we can only guess at.
The names and meaning of various symbols and design elements vary from region to region, and even from village to village. Similar symbols can have totally different interpretations in different places, and can even be called by very different names.
A pysanka is not a rebus or a coded message. There is no "secret decoder ring" that will spit out a hidden message. Instead, you must consider the organic whole of the decorated egg, not just its individual components. Pysanky are themed, so to speak: they invoke protection, fertility, or a good harvest. You have to look at the totality of the design, ask its name (many traditional designs are named) and consider its history to understand what it might mean.
That being said, these are some of the symbols found on pysanky, and some of their common interpretations. Note that some of these interpretations are fairly modern, and probably those of the Ukrainian diaspora, and not common in Ukraine itself. (To see examples of these symbols, click on either of the links below in "related links")
SymbolsETERNITY BANDS
Circles around the egg: The thread of life or eternity and immortality; symbol of protection (evil cannot penetrate that which has no beginning and no end)
Wavy line around the egg: Water, abundance and productivity, harmony and motion
RELIGIOUS SYMBOLS
Berehynia: stylized female figures representing the ancient mother-goddess
Sigma: S-shaped symbol of the ancient zmiya/water god
Cross (even-armed): Ancient sun symbol
Cross (one arm longer): Christ symbol
Churches: Christianity (early versions may have been pagan temples)
SOLAR SYMBOLS
Dots or small circles: Stars or constellations; Mary's tears
Deer or horse: sun symbol; it was a pagan belief that a horse (or stage) carried teh sun across the sky
Eight-pointed star: Ancient symbol of Dazhboh, the Slavic sun god
Swastika: Ancient symbol of Svaroh, god of the heavens, representing the course of the sun through the sky
GEOMETRIC SYMBOLS
Crosshatching or net: plowed fields
Rakes/combs: rain symbols
Dots: seeds
Diamond: Knowledge
Spirals: Protection from dangery
Triangles: Holy Trinity; earth wind and fire
Heart: Love (hearts are always in the center of the motif)
PLANT SYMBOLS
Ruzha or rozha (eight petals): a version of the eight pointed star, it is a sun symbol
Flowers: The female principle denoting wisdom, elegance and beauty
Trees: Long life, good health, strength and youthfulness
Oak leaves or acorns: Oaks were once the symbol of Perun, the Slavic god of thunder and lightning., and symbolize strength and energy
Pine branches: Youth and eternal life
Wheat: Wealth and prosperity
Grapevine: Holy communion
ANIMAL SYMBOLS
Fish: Christ symbol
Deer and Horses: Wealth and prosperity, endurance, leadership, victory, joy. Both were masculine symbols. The stag was also a sun symbol, as it was a great stag who carried the sun across the sky every day in Slavic mythology
Ram or ram's horns: Leadership, strength, dignity, and perseverance
Birds: Fertility and fulfillment of wishes; Coming of spring
Roosters: Fertility
Bees: Hard work
Butterfly: A symbol of a carefree childhood
Spider web: Perseverance, patience, artistry, and industry; healing power
They are Trypillian-styled pysanky. The Trypillian civilization existed in Ukraine from 5500 to 2750 BC, and is known for strikingly lovely pottery. The pottery was painted in flowing geometric designs with animal motifs, and utilized black, white and ochre colors. In the latter half of 20th century there was a resurgence of popularity of Trypillian style among the Ukrainian diaspora. Modern versions of Trypillian pottery were created, and the designs and color scheme were adapted to pysanky in the 1970s. We have no actual evidence that the Trypillians decorated eggs but, if they did, the designs would probably be similar to those on traditional pysanky, as many traditional Ukrainian symbols and motifs are also found on Trypillian pottery. The colors would not have been like those on the pots, though, as they would have used natural plant-based dyes similar to those used in more modern times. Note: the preferred spelling in English has been Trypillian, but a recent exhibit from Ukraine utilized the spelling "Trypilian."
What would happen if you accidentally add vinegar to a non-vinegar orange pysanka dye?
The dye will become a gelatinous sludge, instead of a fairly clear solution. The vinegar reacts with the dye to form a precipitate (new chemical substance) which will form either a sludge or a gel. This means that the dye might not stick properly to eggs, and may coat them with a gooey substance.
The final result varies depending on the manufacturer and exact chemical composition of the orange dye. Some pysankary will purposely add vinegar, even the dye will get gooey because the color sticks better and is brighter. This is particularly true of Ukrainian orange dyes.
If this happens to you, it is usually best to throw out the dye and mix up a new batch......without vinegar. But it's worth trying to see if the dye will work for you in this state.
The answer to this question depends on the context. The ancient Ukrainians who first created pysanky used local plants to create dyes to decorate eggs, and of course they were limited by what was available to them. Historically, their eggs used yellow, red, green and black colors. Small highlights of blue were sometimes added, but this was a difficult color to obtain from nature. Contemporary "Easter Eggs" tend to be decorated in pastel shades of yellow, pink, green, purple, blue, orange, and so on. Modern artists experiment with every color under the sun! Specific colors have specific meanings, so depending on the patterns and designs you choose, and the culture from which they originate, the colors take on those meanings.
How do you get dye date off eggs?
NOTE: a pysankar from Europe reports that using the Mr. Clean-type "Magic Eraser" sponges removes these marks quickly, cleanly, and without damaging the cuticle. This appears to be a promising solution to this problem.
Previous answer: There is, generally, no good way to get the date off of an egg without damaging the cuticle (the outer layer of a shell). The egg producers are making them to be eaten, not to be decorated, so do not take this into consideration. The dye must be permanent enough not to come off when the egg sweats (when moisture from the air condenses on its surface) in order to be useful, so it's generally not removable in a simple, non-abrasive way.
Some date stamps are more permanent than others; it is worth trying to wash the stamp off with mild dish detergent (e.g. Ivory) and a Scotch-Brite pad.
Most people who use dated eggs for making pysanky simply leave them on, and either incorporate the colors into their design, or work around the marks.
It's best to avoid eggs with these marks when making pysanky.
Instead of an egg name something you'd be surprised to find inside an eggshell?
A chick. I get this joke and it's pretty funny. You would be surprised to find a chick in an eggshell. For those who don't get it (chick as in a term for girls/women). For an example sentence, "Look at that chick walking."
It's "chick" when you are using the term for both a girl and a baby chicken. Anyway, it would be surprising to find anything inside of an egg that isn't a chick or a part of the egg's original contents.
However, it would be surprising if you found a chick of any sort, and in any condition, in an egg purchased from a supermarket.
Not necessarily humorous, however, spies were known to imbed secret messages inside an eggshell, without breaking the shell!
Are eggs with wax and dye callled traditional eggs?
No. Using wax and dyes is a technique. It is the pattern that is created that determine whether an egg is traditional or not.
Is it OK to copy pysanka designs from other people?
It depends.
There are three types of pysanka designs: traditional, diasporan and art eggs.
TRADITIONAL pysanka designs have been around for centuries, and are in the public domain. Anyone can copy them.
DIASPORAN (or quasi-traditional) designs use traditional motifs, but have been created in recent years. They can be original designs, or variations on traditional designs. These designs may or may not be in the public domain, depending on how long ago the design was created.
ART eggs are modern designs using pysanka techniques. These are usually not in the public domain unless they are very old.
If the design is found in a book, unless otherwise specified, one would assume that the designs are there to be shared and copied.
If it is an egg you've seen, it is best to ask. Most (but not all) pysanka artists are complimented if you ask to be allowed to copy one of their original designs. If the artist is a professional, and sells pysanky, he or she may not want original designs to be copied. ALWAYS ASK.
If you see it on the web, you could ask the web site owner (if there is a link for contacts). If it is a hobby site, it's not usually a problem. If it is a commercial site, they may not want people copying, and will usually state so on the site.
Most people don't mind copies being made unless the design is an original work of art and they are a professional artist. As long as you DON'T claim the design as your own, and you don't market your work to the same audience, most are happy to share.
How should you dispose of used pysanka dyes?
While the dye powder used to make pysanka dyes can be quite toxic (if inhaled), the dyes themselves are not. You can pour them down the drain.
How many colors of pysanka dyes are there?
How any colors are there in a rainbow? There are two types of dyes used for making pysanky: natural (less common today) and chemical aniline dyes. There are many, many colors of aniline dyes available commercially in North America. The four commercial suppliers of such dyes packaged specifically for use in making pysanky are UGS (Ukrainian Gift Shop), Eggcessories, Surma and Pysanky Showcase. The first three have many of the same names for their dyes, but the actual colors can vary a lot. The reds are a good example: UGS's scarlet (formerly bright red) is quite orangey, as opposed to the Eggcessories bright red, which is a full, darker red. The same is true for many of the other colors--there is much variation as all are custom blends. *UGS: 17 different colors *Surma: 13 different colors *Eggcessories: 13 different colors *Pysanky Showcase: 38 different colors The Pysanky Showcase dyes have a much greater spectrum, including several "brilliant" shades among the 38 offered. You can also create custom pastel colors by adding 2 T of dye (already mixed) to a cup and a half of water plus a T of vinegar. And you can blend your own dyes by mixing together varying amounts of dyes to create new colors. (Mix the actual dyes, not the powders. DO NOT mix together vinegar-free dyes with those that contain vinegar.) For example, adding a small amount of light blue to pink gives a deeper pink color. Additionally, using various combinations of dyebaths in succession can produce interesting colors: orange to green will give olive, dark green to pink will give purple. Play around a bit and see what happens! There is a huge spectrum of color out there!
How do you find pysanka artists?
Pysanka making is becoming a more and more common art form, and there are many artists with web sites. Start by doing a search for "pysanka artist" online using a search engine. Other search terms to consider are:
Ukrainian Egg Decorating
Pysanky egg art
Ukrainian Easter Eggs
There is a great online listserv devoted to pysanky where you can get information and ask questions. Go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Eggs-Pysanky/
See link in "Related links" below.
Many artists post photos of their work to Flickr; you can see them there by searching for pysanky or Ukrainian Easter eggs. Many sell them through eBay and Etsy; doing similar searches there will give you lots of results.
If you want to learn how to write pysanky, you can try looking on Ann Morash's web site (link below) or check with your local Ukrainian community.
Etching is a process used to remove parts of the egg shell with an acid to create raised areas, giving your egg a textured surface. Vinegar or The Works toilet cleaner are often used. Waxed areas are protected from the acid and thus stay intact, versus the exposed areas which are eaten away. The longer the egg is submersed in the acid, the deeper the etching effect. It is important to wash away the debris from your egg with a soft toothbrush and a little Ivory dish liquid. One problem many people run into is "How do you etch an egg without losing most of your pencilled design?" One simple solution to this is to just draw as little as needed before etching. For instance, if you want all your main divisions to be etched, just draw and etch them before going on to draw the elements that will be contained in them. Ie, don't draw every little thing, take time to think about your design before you start to draw and wax. Try to figure out what steps you will take. What colours do I want and where? What order should I dye them in? What do I want to stick out? Sometimes etching is done inadvertently. Those that dye out of dye sequence often remove colours with Ivory dish liquid need to prep their shell before the next dye with vinegar. If you are switching back and forth to different colours this way, you are etching the shell slightly with every vinegar dip.
The word "Pysankа" is Ukrainian, and comes from the word "pysaty (писати)," which means "to write." Pysanky (plural) are eggs that have been written rather than just dyed. They are created by a process of wax-resist (aka batik).
Pysanky are quite beautiful and and can be quite intricately decorated. They have a rich and ancient history associated with spring (and, in more recent times, Easter). Traditional pysanka designs have been passed along for many generations, and possibly thousands of years.
Many pysankary (pysanka artists) both in Ukraine and the world over create wax resist that depart from the traditional colors and patterns, but are often still referred to by that word "pysanka."
To see a list of Pysanka FAQs, check out the WikiAnswer "Pysanky Egg Art" section, which is categorized under Hobbies and Collectibles/Arts and Crafts.
To see examples of pysanky, and to learn how to make them, see the list of "Related Links" in the following section.
How do you prevent wax from peeling off during etching pysanky?
Wax doesn't normally come off during etching. However, if the lines are too fine/thin, the acid can easily undermine (attack sideways below the wax from an etched area) the waxed lines and the wax will come off with a bit of shell.
If you are having this problem, you should consider either etching for a shorter period of time, or writing with a wider stylus. Medium or fine are OK; extra fine or narrower usually come off.
What countries still have the tradition of painting eggs for Easter?
Many countries have traditions of painting, coloring or otherwise decorating eggs for Easter. This was a common pagan spring tradition, and has been incorporated into the christian traditions of many countries.
Additionally, many non-christian countries have begun practicing the pagan trappings of christian Easter traditions. Chocolate eggs and bunnies can be seen in many countries where Christianity is not practiced widely.
Simple dyed eggs at Easter are common throughout Europe, North America, and Australia. Intricately decorated eggs, made using batik, painting, applique and other techniques, are common throughout Eastern Europe, particularly among Slavic peoples.
What type of jars should be used to store pysanka dyes and how big they should be?
It really depends to some degree upon what sort of eggs (and how many of them) you will be dyeing. GLASS JARS: If your dyeing will be limited to an occasional chicken egg, then pint-sized Mason jars might be all you need. They will hold a cup or so of dye and an egg without a problem, and you can buy a dozen of them in a box for $10 or less. This will give you enough jars for all the dyes you'll probably want or need, and a good place (the box) to store them. If you will be working with a variety of egg types, wide-mouth quart size Mason jars would be better. They can handle eggs up to the size of a goose egg. The metal lids that come with the mason jars should be replaced, if possible, with plastic lids. The metal ones rust and the rust gets into the dyes. If you are on a budget, or ecologically minded, you can recycle old jam, jelly or pickle jars for this purpose. The lids, if metal, will eventually rust, at which point you'll need to find new lids or simply recycle some more jars. Remember, though, that pouring boiling water into a glass container can cause it to crack and shatter. I've been told that this can be avoided by having a spoon in the jar (to absorb the heat?), but I prefer to mix up the dyes in a Pyrex measuring cup instead, and pour the cooled dye into the jar. PLASTIC: If you make lots of pysanky, or may be teaching classes (or hosting "parties") where lots of pysanky will be made, you'll want larger jars (quart) and you'll want plastic ones. Eggs are less likely to break in a plastic jar, as being bounced against a plastic wall or bottom is less traumatic than a glass one. You can use plastic peanut butter jars (or other similar jars) to store the dyes. They normally come with a plastic lid, which obviates the concern about rust. Not all plastics can stand up to boiling water, so I would suggest mixing the dye in a Pyrex measuring cup (or other heat resistant vessel) and pouring it in only after it has cooled. Another source of great containers is a Chinese restaurant or the deli counter at your supermarket -- start saving these containers! Soup is sold in heavy-duty plastic quart jars which are not just water tight, but also heat resistant, meaning you can mix up the dyes right in the jars. These are great for storing dyes and have the advantage of being absolutely free, assuming you like Chinese food and/or deli products! You can also buy quart-sized plastic storage containers (e.g. Glad-ware) that are jar-shaped with screw-on lids these are very nice and, like the soup containers, are water tight and heat resistant. NOTE:Very large eggs--emu, ostrich--require either special large containers, or they can be dyed in zip-lock plastic bags. If using the bags for dyeing, you should store the dyes in a more sturdy container.
In what country did the pysanky egg art begin?
"Pysanky" is a Ukrainian term, so technically the answer to your question is that pysanky egg art began in Ukraine.
Decorated eggs have traditionally been created by Slavic people of the many nations and ethnic groups of what is now Central and Eastern Europe. The wax resist and dye method reached its greatest perfection in the territory now known as Ukraine. Each region within Ukraine has its own particular style and traditional colors, symbols, and designs. The intricate and detailed designs that most of us associate with pysanky developed from styles common to the Hutsul people of the Carpathian mountain region of Ukraine.
Incidentally, some ethnographers postulate that the original homeland of the Slavic peoples was in the territory now occupied by Ukraine, most likely Western or Northwestern Ukraine.
Very few people make their own kistky (styluses), as commercially made ones are generally of much better quality, relatively cheap and widely available on-line. A simple wooden handled version can be had for about $3 in North America, and about $1 in Ukraine. There are several ways of making a stylus, but they all require a metal cone (copper or brass), a handle, and a means of attaching the cone to the handle. If you cut a small piece of sheet copper, shape it into a cone with a very small opening, and then attach the cone to a wooden dowel or stick (usually by passing it through a hole in the stick and wrapping into place with copper wire), you will have created your own kistka. Fancier types of kistky require machining, and entirely non-cost effective endeavor.
Why does Easter egg dye come off?
Most Easter egg dyes are water based, and so will re-dissolve in water if given the chance. If the egg becomes moist (even if held in a damp hand), the dye will come off.
In the case of eggs meant to be eaten, this is not a very big deal. In the case of eggs made to be saved, like pysanky, this can be a problem. That is why most pysanka artists coat their finished eggs with a protective varnish.
Is water color and egg dye the same?
I'm not sure what you are asking. What do you mean by water color? If you mean the paints, then, no, they are not the same. Egg dye is a chemical mixed with water; eggs are soaked in the solution. For pysanky, the dyes used are acid dyes, from the family of aniline dyes. Edible Easter eggs use various types of chemical food coloring. Watercolor paints usually come in paste or cake form, and are diluted with water to create a usable paint. They are applied with a brush. Chemically, they consist of four parts:
colorant, commonly pigment (an insoluble inorganic compound or metal oxide crystal, or an organic dye fused to an insoluble metal oxide crystal);
binder, the substance that holds the pigment in suspension and fixes the pigment to the painting surface;
additives, substances that alter the viscosity, hiding, durability or color of the pigment and vehicle mixture; and
solvent, the substance used to thin or dilute the paint for application and that evaporates when the paint hardens or dries.
What supplies are needed for pysanky?
Minimally you need an egg, a writing tool (stylus or pysachok), a heat source (candle), beeswax and pysanka/aniline dyes.
For more detailed information see the link below.
Findings are jewellery components used to create assembled jewelry. Elements considered findings include clasps, earwires, crimps, jumprings, link locks and bead tips. Findings may be used on pysanky for various reasons. Some people like to use them (usually beads or gold or silver filigree) to conceal the hole(s) in the egg. They can be attached to very small eggs (e.g. parakeet) to make them into jewelry. Findings that look like little caps and may have a small loop to which one can attach a chain or hook, and can be used to allow pysanky to be hung and used as Christmas ornaments.
What is the origin of Easter Eggs?
Easter is the name of the English Goddess of Light. Her annual Spring-time festival was ancient before the Christians appeared and caused the people, in the words of the Venerable Bede, to "celebrate the old feast in the spirit of a new solemnity." The Easter eggs, magical ones, in a grass-lined basket, symbolize new life in the coming of Spring. Like the swag and the rest of the trappings of Christmas, Easter eggs have no connection to Christianity beyond the silly little fictions the Church officials have made up to account for them.
An "Easter" egg is a symbol for the goddess Easter which is a variant of Astarte, the goddess of the Sidonians representing sex, reproduction and new life beginning in Spring. Also noted variants are Ishtar and April. Note the connection of all these names. Also is the rabbit/bunny which are prolific reproducers and are viviparous (offspring born live) not oviparous (hatching eggs). The eggs which are symbolic are fertilized eggs, when hatched produce the offspring (such as chicks).
Since the celebration would occur at about the same time as the discovery of the empty tomb where the body of Ἰησοῦς Xριστος was purportedly laid, for some odd reason it is still named for the pagan goddess.